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Panda Racing No.2

375K views 1.7K replies 206 participants last post by  Rasc  
#1 ·
Here's my previous project:

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Panda Racing No.1

A year after selling it, and owning 5 cars in the interim I decided another MX5 would be a suitable replacement car to get me to the train station and back. Last week I therefore found myself schlepping around the M25 to Essex in the rain to look at a sorry looking 1.8 incorrectly advertised as a V-Spec that I hoped was actually an S-Special.

I collected it and after inflating the tyres (the rears were on 11 and 13psi) I set off home. It doesn't have the 112mph limiter my 1.6 had. It runs out of legs at 122mph though (speedo and TomTom in agreement at that part of the dial). It's woefully underpowered and it feels quite baggy compared to my last one. Remind me, what is it I like about these cars again?
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I'd say the 1.8 engine isn't as sweet as the 1.6. Where the 1.6 enjoys being wrung out, the 1.8 prefers to make progress on the slightly higher torque it produces and you gain nothing from screwing the last 500rpm out of it. I'm hoping the more manly 1.8 drivetrain will last better on track than my 1.6 did though as that ate clutches, brakes etc. for fun.

My journey home averaged 29 MPG. Pretty appalling for a small car of this nature, especially when my M3 would have made circa 33 for the same journey.

Anyway, Sunday I had time to give it a quick going over and evaluate what needs to be done to it. I nearly always forget to take photos of what cars are like when I get them so tend to only have the 'after' pics. So here it is on the drive in the state it arrived:

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Paint is very tired, car has ingrained dirt and hasn't been cleaned properly in years. It will look a million times better just having some TLC and a proper clean, sorting out the number plate bracket that's fitted upside down and a few areas of the plastic front and rear bumpers that have crazed paint will get re-painted. Good points are that it appears to have no rust on the bodywork (which is why I bought it) and the hood is new and watertight.

Wheels belong to the previous owner so they'll be going back to him. Will be good to lose the oversized budget 205/50/15 tyres that are blunting the car's responses.

Popping the bonnet revealed years of dirt and grime.

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The whole car seems to have been neglected so its no surprise to see a filthy engine bay. Washer fluid was empty, oil was on minimum and coolant was below minimum. At least it's mainly standard without lots of shiny tat or an awful induction kit or anything. Only areas of note are a broken dipstick handle (the history for the car shows this as an advisory on its first MOT in the country) and a broken clip for the bonnet stay, meaning over time the bonnet stay has been sat on the radiator top-hose, making a small but noticeable indentation in it. I'll get a new clip and replace the hose.

Poking around it in the daylight it's in quite a strange state. It's almost as if it has just arrived at the docks. It's got all the Japanese licencing info in the windscreen still, there are random JDM stickers here and there and the interior is filthy, and unbelievably still has Japanese parking tickets and other odds and ends in it.

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Here's the important sticker saying it's an S-Spec:

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...and the inside of the boot lid holds clues to a potential previous life as a trackday/club racer/road warrior:

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Anyway, as it started raining I pulled it inside to give the inside a clean and sort out:

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Sticking my head in the footwell to hoover it out I found this:

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An original JDM flare.

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I can't decide whether to set it off for a bit of fun or to sell it. Are these rare and would there be a market for it?

Mazdaspeed gearknob fitted. Not to my taste but possibly worth a few quid to someone? Will be in the For Sale section soon.

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The Nardi Torino that's fitted I do like. I'm tempted to keep it 'in stock', but may well sell that on too?:

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This is the funniest thing in the entire car:

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A 'carbon' ashtray.
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Apparently it's the one Takuma Sato had fitted to his F1 car so he could have a crafty bifta during qualifying. Will be going in the For Sale section too.

A bit of CSI digging about while cleaning the inside gave further clues to what the boot stickers had hinted at. One of the stickers was the Safety21 logo. Digging about I found the rear deck fuel tank cover had been tin-snipped and beneath them, covered up very well with metallic tape was the evidence of where the rear stays of a rollbar had been mounted.

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Then looking under the floor, holes where the main hoop had mounted were visible, but there were none where the front legs would go on a 6-point cage. Therefore, I'd assume in Japan it had a Safety21 4 point rollbar.

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Anyway, I gave the interior a thorough clean, removed all the unnecessary stickers. Pulled the Nardi off and replaced it with my Momo. I also climbed underneath and had a look at the suspension. The rear Mazdaspeed coilovers were backed off to their softest setting and that was that. It's now much more pleasant inside and with the back a few clicks softer it drives better too.

So far I've bought some proper chairs for it and some scaffolding to protect my head in case it falls over. Today I'm going to buy some coilovers and some wheels. It'll then need a front lip, an alignment, some brakes, harnesses, a hard-top, some paint and a thorough stripping / lighten-ing. Hopefully will get it on track by November. Will be doing it as a rolling project though, commuting sideways in it everyday and seeing what it's like to live with as a daily drive.
 
#27 ·
looks cracking on them wheels mate. the paints really come up well, have you detailed it or just give it a good clean?

im not sure what the fronts are, they're random springs (lower obviously) but the shocks are probably stock, which is why they aren't ideally suited to it. whack the HSD's on and it'll transform it i imagine. dont think the front is/are burst (when the rears went, there was no rebound whatsoever), but they may well be on their way out, as they have such low springs on them.
 
#28 ·
firstmx - It's Plasticote paint and the colour is just called 'Orange'. The vehicle ID sticker is in the driver's door shut.

Harrison - I've just given it a good clean so far. The lad who came with me to collect the car has a detailing business (Diamond Detailing) and I may well get him to give it a proper sorting out though.

Have done the brakes on the wife's car today, so the next job is fitting these:

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and these:

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#30 · (Edited by Moderator)
I found some time to work on the Panda today. First, I took off the plastic arches. I guessed the car would be lighter with them in the bin, that they weren't aerodynamic, they looked pants and most of all had suspicions they were probably crud catchers. It seems I was right - here's the grime they were holding against the bodywork. Lovely for starting rust I imagine:

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I cleaned everything out afterwards and filled the back and top of the arches and the top and back of the sills with cavity wax.

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Next I took the badges of the rear panel and tidied the glue off the paint:

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I'd originally been going to use a ramp on Monday to get the coilovers fitted but decided to crack on today instead. So, up in the air and on stands:

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Mr Anglegrinder came out to say hello to the old front struts (they were knackered anyway, and this is quicker than faffing with spring compressors or having to undo the wishbone bolts):

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Turns out the were ClimbGear, as per one of the stickers that was in the inside of the boot.

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Whatever, they're in the bin now. I took longer with the rears as they're Mazdaspeed coilovers, and I'm sure someone must want them. Will stick them in the classifieds.

HSDs on:

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Wheels back on and back on the floor:

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Straight off the stands the rear's too high and the front's too low. Had a quick drive down the road and the front lip's in constant contact with the road. Will sort it tomorrow.

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#31 ·
Had bit more time today, so got the car back up in the air.

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Spent quite a while measuring and adjusting, dropping it back down, measuring again, back in the air, more adjustment, etc., etc..

Got to somewhere I was happy with ride height wise and took it for a drive. I stopped a few times to adjust tyre pressures and adjust the front and rear damping and now have it somewhere that I think is a useful initial set-up. Will adjust over the next few days and then get it booked in to WIM for them to do their stuff.

I found a half-built industrial park while I was out. The roads are laid out and have fantastic new tarmac down but there's nobody about, especially on a Sunday. It was perfect for testing and sliding about - the car is so much better now and slides beautifully. Had to take a few cheeky snaps while I was there too.

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Hopefully get the driver's seat mounted tomorrow evening.
 
#35 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks everyone.

Last night I had a few hours spare so went straight from my commute home into my friendly local garage. Oli at Owen Garages in Haywards Heath has allowed me to use his ramp and work on my cars there a few times. He does my MOT work and things I don't have time to do on the family bus and I can't recommend him or the garage enough.

So, roof down, standard seats out and car jacked up to check no brake or fuel lines were where I needed to work. (Excuse the poor iJesus pics):

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Carpet cut out around the humps. 8mm spot-weld drill on the spot-welds and then a chisel around the base to pop them out.

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Done

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Side-mounts mounted into car, seat fitted to mounts. Finished.

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Home in time for sausage sandwiches and a bottle of red in front of Wheeler Dealers. Will do the passenger one next time I have a spare hour.
 
#37 ·
In previous cars I've welded steel bars longitudinally across the floor and mounted to these with captive nuts welded in the bars. This time I wanted them as low as possible. So, floor is drilled and side-mounts are bolted straight through it. Under the floor though are spreader plates in 3mm steel These are held in place by the clamping force of the bolts for now, but I'll run a weld around them and weld the nuts in place so you don't need to hold a spanner underneath while tightening the nut from above. Will finish things up nicely and make removing and replacing the seats much easier if necessary.

The standard 'humps' with the captive nuts in are a thicker gauge steel than the floor. This, plus the shape of them and the load on the bolt being spread over their footprint offers considerable strength over and above the floor that they're mounted to on its own.

Fitting side-mount seats without spreader plates (or even if you just use penny washers) risks them tearing straight out in a collision. I try to do things like this as per the MSA Bluebook as I've built race cars in the past that had to go through scrutineering and needed to be built to spec., but I also think it's a good standard to aim for even if you're not going to race. Something less may pass an MOT but I've seen a seat rip out of the floor when a MK1 Golf crashed in a saloon car race and the guy's seat tore right out the floor. I can't remember the details 100% but I'm pretty sure the driver was killed. It obviously wasn't built to spec and shouldn't have got through scrutineering.

Incidentally I saw another incident where another seat came loose in a crash. It turned out the guy had used bolts from B&Q to mount his seat. Again, the scrutineers should be looking that Hi-ten bolts were used.

Appendix K (Safety) of the 2010 Bluebook here if anyone's interested: http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_forms/bluebooks/10/160-195%20Competitor%20Safety.pdf

Would really recommend chopping the humps out over trying to do anything with the humps still in the way. The seat's lower and in my opinion, considerably safer.
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The only other thing that needs removing on the driver's side is a small tab that's held in with a spotweld and 2 8mm bolts from underneath. It looks like an exhaust hangar but on both the cars I've owned it's been redundant and not used by either exhaust.
 
#42 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm still making my mind up about the HSDs. I've still not worked out settings I'm completely happy with. The cheapest I found was NCB Motorsport (Jibberingloon on here). Good service and quick delivery too. They were under ÂŁ700 from him.

I worked from home yesterday, so the HardDog is now in. I also moved the seat back 10mm and fitted a spacer/removable boss. The driving position is now perfect.

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I had a great drive afterwards - the bar has really stiffened up the car. With my spirits raised and feeling confident in the car I got in the outside lane at a set of traffic lights on a junction that merges to 1 lane. To keep me in my place the e46 330d next to me mugged me off good and proper
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. I need an extra 100bhp and the car would be superb.

Today I went to the tip. It's surprising what you can fit an MX5 with no passenger seat and using a bungee to hold the boot closed.

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Not quite as much I used to get in my last one though, using the 6-point cage as a roof-rack...

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#45 ·
Thanks very much The bar is a HardDog M1 Hard Core with harness bar and custom added X-Brace. I bought it from Avoneer on this forum. Having had a Cusco/Safety 21 6 point in my last car I didn't want to go that route again due to the reduction in space for proper seats. I have to admit, the 6 point looked miles better - but with this car I'm trying to keep my focus on function over form.

As well as restricting space for seats the Cusco was also bolted together with weedy joints and pretty feeble bolts, and the dash-dodger front legs I doubt would do much in all honesty. I also always had the niggle that the front to rear top bar was very near your head and on the road without your crash helmet on that isn't a good thing.

I've got some TR lane door bars to add too - although I'm going to have to modify them first as the rear mount wants to fit in the same place as the rollbar.