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Discussion starter · #41 ·
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I'm sure you've already checked this out but is that drivers side (left on photo) chassis leg OK for rust?
Yes it's just a bit of surface rust, the cars very good chassis wise.

The flywheel turned up today so I stopped over for a few hours after work to crack on. I managed to get clutch, flywheel, gearbox, ppf, prop, slave cylinder and starter motor aligned. I still need to have a fettle with the gearbox/starter/alternator loom around the offside header to make sure there's no melting of wiring.

Also a box of mocal bits turned up last week so I can get my oil cooler/remote filter housing bolted up and get some oil lines made up to suit.
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Discussion starter · #42 ·
I've had a couple of late nights working on the mazda this week and have made a good amount of progress. It seems that the kits are definitely more suited to a mk1 so expect to modify a fair amount for it to fit your mk2. I went and fetched my radiator from a local guy who builds for some serious cars (ex le mans, racing trucks etc.) He had a very serious series 1 rs turbo in his unit, k20, borg Warner twin scroll, sequential box, full cage, ohlins suspension (see pics).

So basically I cracked on and I've managed to get the whole thing fully plumbed and wired, fluids in, plenums on (almost, there's a clearance issue with the offside damper top and throttle cable bracket), idle control plumbed, map sensor, fuel pressure reg and lines, water pump etc.

Basically it was ready to turn over so I thought sod it I'll crack it over to check flywheel clearance, fuel pressure etc..... The starters decided to pack up, so fingers crossed I should have it running over the bank holiday weekend. It will then be a case of giving it a good shakedown, check for leaks, oil pressure etc and get it sent off for its exhaust system to be made.

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... and get it sent off for its exhaust system to be made.
The kit lists an exhaust system, so are you planning something a bit different from Rocketeer's own parts?

Also, are those carbon fibre plenums the revised and strengthened version? I see the throttles are turned to face directly forwards but the original parts only turn 45°.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
... and get it sent off for its exhaust system to be made.
The kit lists an exhaust system, so are you planning something a bit different from Rocketeer's own parts?

Also, are those carbon fibre plenums the revised and strengthened version? I see the throttles are turned to face directly forwards but the original parts only turn 45°.
I opted out of the exhaust system that comes as part of the kit due to not wanting to run a twin exit mx5parts rear silencer, so a local exhaust fabricator will be making a custom system from headers back for me. Yes they are the latest versions with revised throttle body positioning to clear the stock coolant overflow reservoir.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
I've been extremely busy in the workshop lately so I've been a bit strapped for time on the mx5. I have got it up and running now and have been working through a couple of small issues.

It's booked in for it's exhaust system to be made tomorrow/Thursday so then I can finally take it a spin to give it a shakedown and full checkover before sorting alignment etc.

Jobs left include final tidying and heatwrapping of a couple of looms, positioning and plumbing the rest of the oil system in, wiring up gauges, alignment and final mapping. Hopefully I'll get chance to get out on a track day before winter then ????????
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I was only asking Bruce about this yesterday. I was wondering if I should use the battery from the Jag S-Type, or stick with the stock MX5 one.

He reckons the MX5 one should be fine as long as it's in good health.
 
Enjoying this thread as I intend to treat my MK1 to some Rocketeer goodness.

I don't quite have the facilities you do. It will all be carried out in the garage at home with engine crane, ramps, car stands etc. Any thoughts on how easy it is to do DIY/at home?
 
Having done an engine swap before, I found the biggest logistical challenge was making room for the length of the car plus the engine crane with no level ground outside the garage door to roll the crane on. Could have left the car's rear half sticking out, but then you can't close the door at night. Ended up working diagonally across our double garage.

TL/DR: Plan how you're going to move stuff you can't lift and measure up.
 
Get in touch and I can send you the instruction manual if that's helpful.

The easiest way is to put the car on axle stands, put the subframe on the base of the engine crane, assemble the engine and ancillaries to the subframe, wheel it all under the car and hoist it up inside the engine bay with the crane. Almost easier than using a ramp!
 
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