[wannabe]

Nice!

I want to remove the bit that says 'DO NOT REMOVE' lol

 

[impreza_dood]

Doesn't look like much capacity in the new sump?

 

[boosted]

I was at a trackday at Thruxton last year and parked next to Westfield with a Jag V6 engine..they lost the engine in the afternoon due to big end going..i suspect oil starvation.
If going on track with this i would look into a baffled sump on accusump...
No idea though what sump was fitted to tge westfield v6 jag though so no scaremongering just suggesting from someone whose on 3rd engine in my track Westy due to oil surge/ starvation.
This is gonna sound awesome...i love the sound of a v6.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[smiffy415]

I was at a trackday at Thruxton last year and parked next to Westfield with a Jag V6 engine..they lost the engine in the afternoon due to big end going..i suspect oil starvation.
If going on track with this i would look into a baffled sump on accusump...
No idea though what sump was fitted to tge westfield v6 jag though so no scaremongering just suggesting from someone whose on 3rd engine in my track Westy due to oil surge/ starvation.
This is gonna sound awesome...i love the sound of a v6.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

I did think that to be far but there's a couple using them in race cars already so we'll see how it goes. I'll be using a remote oil filter housing and a 16 row oil cooler so there's gonna be plenty of oil about.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[smiffy415]

It's been a pretty productive week as I'm hoping to get the old subframe off, suspension swapped over and new subframe on with engine tomorrow night/Saturday morning. I'm waiting on some new mazda speed engine mounts from moss so fingers crossed they turn up tomorrow ????.
The engine bay has had a quick degrease and clean, removed the old clutch line and replaced with the new braided HEL line, removed the charcoal canister system and tidier unnecessary wiring.
I've dressed the engine as much as possible in preparation for fitting: headers, alternator, pas pump, engine mounting brackets, icv system, throttle body's adapted and fastened to the inlets with support and cable brackets.
After watching the cock ups on the car throttle video I've also completed the necessary mods to the gearbox which include spacing the clutch fork pivot point position, drilling the bellhousing for starter clearance and chamfered the bellhousing around its circumference to avoid any potential flywheel fouling. The ecu is mounted properly with the supplied rubber bobbins and rivnuts (which weren't in the kit for some reason). I'm not sure how I feel about how they've riveted the ecu solid to the bulkhead, surely the vibrations can't be good for it and also lack of airflow behind the unit for cooling. I'll let the pics do the talking [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[smiffy415]

More pictures

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[boosted]

Looking good.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[wannabe]

You have to drill a massive hole in the gearbox bellhousing??

 

[Martin Y]

Great photos, thanks for posting. I see the two manifolds share a single IAC valve for idle control. Just curious if they have different versions of the adapter for Mk.1 vs Mk.2 valves or if they only recommend using the Mk.2 valve.

Also, I was pretty shocked by the Carthrottle guys just pop riveting their ECU to the bulkhead at the back of the bay so I'm glad to see they actually provide those nice antivibration mounts to space it away from the body.

 

[smiffy415]

You have to drill a massive hole in the gearbox bellhousing??

Yes it's to clear the nose of the starter in its new position

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[smiffy415]

Great photos, thanks for posting. I see the two manifolds share a single IAC valve for idle control. Just curious if they have different versions of the adapter for Mk.1 vs Mk.2 valves or if they only recommend using the Mk.2 valve.

Also, I was pretty shocked by the Carthrottle guys just pop riveting their ECU to the bulkhead at the back of the bay so I'm glad to see they actually provide those nice antivibration mounts to space it away from the body.

You have to buy a 2nd throttle body anyway so if you buy a mk2 tb you'll have the correct icv there ready. I've been busy in the workshop getti g everything swapped so I'll put an update on later to show progress.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[smiffy415]

Last night I got the beers in and had a late one. We pulled the whole subframe/suspension/steering assembly off as one. I left the calipers, suspension legs and anti roll bar in situ as this seemed more logical than fighting them back on and bleeding the brakes up like car throttle did.

We mounted the bare subframe to the engine with the new competition mounts and fitted it from underneath which was nice and easy. Then the problems started, upon offering the steering rack up to the subframe I had major issues with alternator clearance on the pas lines on the rack. I'm not sure why but I've ended up shaving some of the lower alternator casing and rear plastic cover to clear them. The rack was a bit of a pig to get back in and onto the lower column UJ, I then called it a day.

This morning I cracked on and refitted all of the suspension, steering, brakes wheels and dropped the car back on its wheels. Once up on the ramp I've changed the rear crank oil seal and fitted the bellhousing adaptor and starter motor. This needs slight modification (open 2 of the mounting holes up slightly so you can pivot the starter pinion away from the flywheel ring gear, there's been a couple of instances on other cars where the starter fails to disengage).

I've plumbed the pas back in, connected the starter and alternator up and rerouted the main gearbox loom to cater for the offside exhaust header. Next I decided to fit the engine loom, simple enough but it turns out my engine is a later type despite coming from a 52 plate s type. I've got the later ignition coils which are 4 pin not 2 so I've ordered a correct set. The cam sensors are on the front of the head not the rear so I need to lengthen and reroute the loom to that. That's where we're upto currently, I've ordered my oil cooler, remote filter housing and block take off and sandwich plate.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[Rasc]

Good thread, coming together nicely.

 

[boosted]

Engine bay shot lovely...hugely satisfying when the engines in.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[BEN99W]

That engine does look like it belongs there. It's great to see your progress with this. I've been fantasizing about the rocketeer conversion for my mk2 as even though I'm turbo'd already, the naturally aspirated v6 just seems like the best solution.

Just gotta find a way to cope with the money side of it all!

Ben

 

[Martin Y]

I'm trying to choose between a Rocketeer AJ30 V6 kit and a Crapengineering KL V6 kit. I've been thinking about a KL V6 for 10 years and if I dither much longer I'll be too old and unfit to do it. But I'm torn because I like the idea of keeping it a Mazda engine but the KL kit is ITBs only and I think that might just be a bit wearing for a daily driver. If they had Rocketeer style manifolds (or any sort of manifold) I think that would tip it.

 

[Bruce]

I'm trying to choose between a Rocketeer AJ30 V6 kit and a Crapengineering KL V6 kit. I've been thinking about a KL V6 for 10 years and if I dither much longer I'll be too old and unfit to do it. But I'm torn because I like the idea of keeping it a Mazda engine but the KL kit is ITBs only and I think that might just be a bit wearing for a daily driver. If they had Rocketeer style manifolds (or any sort of manifold) I think that would tip it.

Mazda use this engine in Mazda 6. And Mazda themselves built a Mk2 prototype with the AJ30 Jaguar/Lincoln engine (back when they were affiliated with Ford).

So it's as much part of the family as the KL. But 260hp/250lbft not 200 ;o)

BTW, the AJ30 is 5Kg LIGHTER than the iron block 1.8.

We had throttle bodies on the prototype but the lack of hot/cold start idle control were considered inappropriate for a road car. Also, PCV is retained, manifold air temp and pressure are all easily read for best possible road manners. Plus the plenums just performed much better.

 

[Martin Y]

… We had throttle bodies on the prototype but the lack of hot/cold start idle control were considered inappropriate for a road car. Also, PCV is retained, manifold air temp and pressure are all easily read for best possible road manners.

Time spent tinkering with hot & cold start and idle control on a supercharged Mk.1 is at the core of why I prefer the idea of a single (or twin as here ) throttle and manifold over ITBs.

Speaking of tinkering, how does the user link to the ECU; serial, USB, Bluetooth?

 

[Bruce]

… We had throttle bodies on the prototype but the lack of hot/cold start idle control were considered inappropriate for a road car. Also, PCV is retained, manifold air temp and pressure are all easily read for best possible road manners.

Time spent tinkering with hot & cold start and idle control on a supercharged Mk.1 is at the core of why I prefer the idea of a single (or twin as here ) throttle and manifold over ITBs.

Speaking of tinkering, how does the user link to the ECU; serial, USB, Bluetooth?

The ECU is basically an ME442.

So serial or via USB adapter or Bluetooth adapter

https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/products/universal-engine-management-systems/me442-wire-in-engine-management/

 

[carl s]

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I'm sure you've already checked this out but is that drivers side (left on photo) chassis leg OK for rust?