Yeah mine might touch as well, haven't checked that. I just like the look of it really, best to wet it when you put it on.

 

Yeh, I've heat wrapped a few exhaust manifolds, people never wet it and then it goes saggy...

 

I've only wrapped a mild steel tubular manifold before, not turbo, and it cracked, and like bd said, with the chances of oil leaks sod having an oily rag wrapped round a toasty hot metal pipe.
I plan on shielding around the manifold and things that might get burnt.

 

I've only wrapped a mild steel tubular manifold before, not turbo, and it cracked, and like bd said, with the chances of oil leaks sod having an oily rag wrapped round a toasty hot metal pipe.
I plan on shielding around the manifold and things that might get burnt.

I've had a group A manifold crack on my old rally car where it was wrapped. Hadn't seen the oil comment, and a good point... I think I'll fit a thermocouple in that area and monitor the temps and see how it goes.

 

Ohh fuck it, looks like it coming off then

MT.net;

Wrapping the downpipe to reduce underhood heat will prove useless. 80% of the downpipe is under the car, not under the hood. The material of the downpipe will deteriorate very rapidly if insulated. If your downpipe is mild steel, I'd suggest it will not survive more than 2000 miles. Stainless, maybe 5000. It will actually "flake" away and break into pieces.

 

My wrap was the only thing holding it together in the end around two of the runners, was only piss thin metal tho.

 

My wrap was the only thing holding it together in the end around two of the runners, was only piss thin metal tho.

That's it its coming off, waste of £12 :censor:

Anything else I can wrap, make use of it?

 

I be happy with £12 on my supercharger build bud, loads of parts I don't need or ordered wrong

 

I be happy with £12 on my supercharger build bud, loads of parts I don't need or ordered wrong

Ahh dont get me started.

- £12 Heat wrap

- £100 Supra injectors

- £90 of exhaust tubing

- £40 back box

Most of it I managed to sell or return though.

 

Nice work, that's quiet a short back box you managed to source as there isn't much room going that way, a matter of opinion but i decided not to wrap my downpipe as my engine loves to weap oil lol, looks good though keep it up

This is the back box http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221098551025?var=520104791565&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Nice bit of kit really, I think the guy must make them as opposed to Made in China.

440mm long it is, will weld a 90 elbow on the end, short straight pipe to take it beside the diff, then 90 again to return all the way to down pipe. I have got the original exhaust lying out and a 12 tonne hydraulic pipe bender, so I can get all the little tweeks and bends spot on.

Comes with a silencer bung as well which is pretty cool, can quieten it down if need at track days. Seen holding my down pipe up.

have you got PAS? the reason i ask is there isn't much room for ic pipework how you have got ur turbo clocked, same as mine btw, I had to move my PAS fluid bottle forward just to clear 2" pipework, now decided to remove my PAS all together

Yeah I have, the way my set up works is I can point the run straight down in-between the PAS pipe and the bottom radiator hose. Should be able to get my 2.25" run through there with a little jiggling of the pipes.

You can see it in this photo, the gap between the 2 pipes.

I was thinking of removing the PAS all together, but my readings seem to find that if you dont do all the internal in the rack, the steering can become a bit vague.

Well handy having a pipe bender I have one too but only goes upto 2" which is usually too small for what i do, so you're connecting the back box to the original pipework? Yer my turbo looks like that too still seemed a bit tight so i put a 90 degree hose straight off my turbo so my piping comes straight towards the radiator, don't suppose it matters either way but as i'm runnig with no ic at the minute i needed to connect it to the tb so it was the logical thing to do.

I'm going to make a start on removing my pas soonish :yes:

 

Ohh fuck it, looks like it coming off then

MT.net;

Wrapping the downpipe to reduce underhood heat will prove useless. 80% of the downpipe is under the car, not under the hood. The material of the downpipe will deteriorate very rapidly if insulated. If your downpipe is mild steel, I'd suggest it will not survive more than 2000 miles. Stainless, maybe 5000. It will actually "flake" away and break into pieces.

it looked pretty though lol

 

A good mate of mine has one of these I use;

My plan is to lay my new pipe run onto of the old to pick up all the little bends and deviations, as the original run is not at all straight.

I making a full exhaust downpipe back, set me back about ~£150 in materials, for 2.5inch.

 

Great build thread - Just read it all.

your Intercooler pipe kit is ready for you - you should get it in a few days once sent.

cheers

Dan

 

Great build thread - Just read it all.

your Intercooler pipe kit is ready for you - you should get it in a few days once sent.

cheers

Dan

Cheers Dan, looking forward to it seeing it.

 

Intercooler pipe work on, went on real easy. I had to trim down some of the silicone 90's a little to keep it out of the way of the wheels on full lock.

Any reasons I shouldn't have the run touching a heater pipe and power steering pipe? My understanding is they wont get hot enough to melt silicone.

Cold side as per Dans' instructions;

Hot side, different to instructions (I think), swapped some of the Alu pipes around and it worked out really well. Didn't want to cut the Alu pipes as they had been beaded;

 

Looking good dude! When do you reckon it'll be finished?

 

Looks good alex, might have to sneak a peak soon if your about.

 

Got myself some JB Fab brackets, as I original had my seat bolted through the floor using side mount brackets. But I set it up using the original base cushion, which gave me chronic back ache. Once changed to a foam pad it was way to close, had to adopted the T-rex arm position.

Got some lean on it now as well, so not as upright.

 

Looking good dude! When do you reckon it'll be finished?

Cheers bud, the intention is to have it ready for March. Drifting season kicks of down here for Smeartharpe airfield then as well. No real rush, I have one of Mx5 Dan alloy high capacity radiators on order, which wont be here until early Feb.

Also these wheels in black as well, which should be here end of Jan.

Looks good alex, might have to sneak a peak soon if your about.

Yeah bud pop round, I was gona drop you a PM to come round today to do your manifold, but the weather is shit and I cant move mine at the moment.

 

It's fine, I'm trying to get a decat sorted and adaptor for my apexi (giant washer 130mm OD, 85mm ID with 4" 85mm ID tube welded to it) anyway, that and it had to go in for a full alignment today as it was pretty scary to drive in the wet with it being so out. I recommend protyres by Vue if you need yours doing, cost me £70 and everything needed adjusting!

 

Looking at your IC pipe diameter and routing I'd never get 2.5" through there especially with the pas in. Looks like you're overtaking me now lol

 

Looking at your IC pipe diameter and routing I'd never get 2.5" through there especially with the pas in. Looks like you're overtaking me now lol

Yeah that was with 2.25", the old pipes and hoses are not flexible at all. The PAS pump has a weird 180 degree pipe on it, if you could replace this it would make life a lot easier.

Haha, don't get to worried iv got the EMB challenge coming round the corner.

 

Looking at your IC pipe diameter and routing I'd never get 2.5" through there especially with the pas in. Looks like you're overtaking me now lol

Yeah that was with 2.25", the old pipes and hoses are not flexible at all. The PAS pump has a weird 180 degree pipe on it, if you could replace this it would make life a lot easier.

Haha, don't get to worried iv got the EMB challenge coming round the corner.

I know the pump fitting you mean... I've depowered a rack so goin to fit that tomorrow and see if I can find a way through. My outlet on the turbo is right above the pas pump so should be easier without it. My old manta had no pas and was fine, so mx5 should be ok.

 

It's fine, I'm trying to get a decat sorted and adaptor for my apexi (giant washer 130mm OD, 85mm ID with 4" 85mm ID tube welded to it) anyway, that and it had to go in for a full alignment today as it was pretty scary to drive in the wet with it being so out. I recommend protyres by Vue if you need yours doing, cost me £70 and everything needed adjusting!

You could just do it in silicone reducers, but 130 seems large to start at?

Will give them a try when im finished boost building, need by drift geo set up doing. Protyre in Tavistock didn't seem to clued up.

 

Not much to report of this weekend, just got the water supply all sorted. I had some spare silicone pipe left over so replaced some other water lines as well.

Did this to prevent them falling into the auxiliary belts.