Just found it... will think about that one as although I like it... It seems like a lot of messing with stuff I don't understand!

Easy just get the instrument panel out and unscrew temp gauge then follow my instructions to solder in resistors, was thinking about doing a service where you send me your panel and I do the work.?

 

Thanks guys for the kind words. In case you'd have any suggestions or wishes, please share - there's always room for improvement

I wanted to ask why you put the stock temp sensor where you did? Did it interfere with other parts?

Also the reroute plate is a little larger than the output of the head, not sure if this was intentional to help prevent leaks e.t.c?
If not it would use less ally and look a little tidier if it was maybe 2mm smaller diameter? (Same for blank plate)

Excuse me if I am running over old ground here, you have clearly put more engineering knowledge into making this than I have in total ????????????

 

Hi,

1. I believe it's a location when the sensor does not obstruct anything. I believe it could be put in a more straight position, but I need to be careful so it fits all cars. On NA 1.6 it looks like this:

2. The blanking plate can be smaller, however the adapter not really unless the round design would be changed a bit, otherwise your temp sensor would obstruct with thermostat. Thanks for your comments, I will update my next batch a bit to see what could be done

 

10% off permanently

 

Has anyone blanked the front outlet off via means of fitting a core plug themselves? If so how easy is it? Is it literally just a case of hammering a new one in?

 

If you blank off the front 30mm outlet, you will need to figure out what to do with the two small coolant hoses on the water neck. I'm looking into doing the same at the moment. Does anybody know what the impact is of removing these hoses? I understand that on goes to the throttle body, and is used for controlling the idle valve. Is it needed if running a standalone ECU?

As per this link http://949racing.com/miata-coolant-reroute-system.aspx , the water going into the neck cools/heats the oil cooler and the throttle body. On my '93 1.6, the is no oil cooler (right?), and the idle at warmup is dealt with by my MS2, right?

 

Can't you just join them both up? Or better still remove them (a 1.6 will not have an oil cooler, and I've taken mine off already anyway) Anyone removed the coolant through the T/B, do they get cold start/idle issues as that's all its there for).

 

Can't you just join them both up? Or better still remove them (a 1.6 will not have an oil cooler, and I've taken mine off already anyway) Anyone removed the coolant through the T/B, do they get cold start/idle issues as that's all its there for).

will let you know on winter. I have 1.8 and I removed oil cooler - which is actually only here to warm oil faster not to cool it as it´s on hot side (after head).

I plugged rear water port on the head and going to tap and cap mixing manifold near water pump. I´ve saw more guys doing this with no problem ;-)

(I will add proper oil cooler with thermostat later in this year)

 

Took a photo of the inlet manifold sitting on the bench. My understanding is that the coolant exits the head through hose A, goes through the TB, goes to the air valve through hose B, and from there goes to the coolant neck t-piece.

My plan is to run the coolant from the head to the air valve, and from there to the mixing manifold, thereby bypassing the throttle body and the water neck.

 

I see on the original post it is possible to use a Gates hose 22436. Does this hose go all the way from front to back with no additional hoses? Fantastic if it does!

 

I am counting on this, but heard you may have to trim it to fit.
Haven't got round to putting the engine back in (yet)

 

Yes, it goes all the way and you need to trim it

 

I see on the original post it is possible to use a Gates hose 22436. Does this hose go all the way from front to back with no additional hoses? Fantastic if it does!

Yes, it goes all the way and you need to trim it

I managed to buy the wrong one, and it didn't quite go all the way - apparently the shape changed... The part number you quoted shoudl be good.

Read revlimiter disclaimer at top of this thread to make sure you get the right part number:

http://revlimiter.net/blog/2011/06/coolant-re-route-2/

 

Where do you guys buy the Gates coolant hoses? I can only find them in US eBay.

 

Where do you guys buy the Gates coolant hoses? I can only find them in US eBay.

US ebay... postage makes it very expensive. But depends how neat you want it to look!

Could always buy a massive batch and sell on or do a group buy?

 

Yes US Ebay, but not unreasonable for total price delivered. Haven't found one from a UK supplier despite lots of searching!

Edit: Just got one for £28 delivered so yes a bit steep but ok considering it isn't on any UK OEM cars (to my knowledge)

 

Great info. Thanks!

I was looking at getting an Ali pipe made up. We have a cnc pipe bender at work and a colleague has a tool for put a ridge around the end. I'll keep you up to date but tbh it's going to be a while before I get on to it....

Shame that gates hose isn't available in the uk.

 

You could speak with whisper about supplying the pipes with his kit ☺☺☺

 

for your info guys, hose you need is Dayco 71989

38 dolars doesn´t sound like "very expensive" to me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-Coolant-Hose-Curved-Radiator-Hose-Upper-DAYCO-71989-/310517913226?hash=item484c4f568a:g:eqkAAOSw~gRVhIzg&vxp=mtr

 

It isn't very expensive, but is still expensive for a rubber hose. More importantly, it is not the right hose.

http://revlimiter.ne...ant-re-route-2/

 

Hi Is this the thermostat that i need as is suggested way back on page 3 of this thread the one with the 2 valves and the offset to the stat?

http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/1238507-gates

Cheers Paul

 

Hi Paul, that's the one you preferrably shoud not get

 

Hi Paul, that's the one you preferrably shoud not get

haha maybe i read it wrong do i need the standard one then? As ive got one of those :yes:

 

82 degree jobby is best.

What do people find successful in sealing the spacer to the back of the head? Gasket sealant and gasket or just the gasket or something else,?

 

I found when I installed mine on the 1.6 supercharged Eunos, the gasket was sufficient, never leaked at all! The biggest problem was getting the lower bolt started, ( ended up filing a "flat" on the spacer to align the bolt hole ) once that was threaded and tightened up, all was / is good!

Barrie