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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

I've been told by a pretty reliable source that I can take the live, ground and signal for LC2 wideband controller all from the OEM O2 sensor plug, diagram below

4af7a84708f9ccab57be58d9a3216b1e.jpg


I'm in a 1997 mk1 so the wire colours will be different but I'm told the plug layout is the same. Has anyone else done this, any thoughts, any alternatives I should consider?

I've read so much conflicting information regarding wiring in the controller, maybe I just need to get the multimeter out and crack on?

Cheers

Marv
 

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Unsure without looking at the full diagram of the car, but you need to make sure the ground is the ECU ground as well.

The Innovate is a bit fickle when it comes to the grounds, this being said I bet if you trace that live/ground they are exactly as Innovate require.
 

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Hi,

I have wired up an AEM wideband to the OEM ecu connector by cutting off an old narrowband plug and splicing it to the wideband then plugging it in as normal I have an ME221 ECU.

The OEM loom plug should give you the best results.

1994 Eunos 1800. I can not remember the wiring though.

I use adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors which are expensive but excellent.

Cheers Dickie
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi,
I have wired up an AEM wideband to the OEM ecu connector by cutting off an old narrowband plug and splicing it to the wideband then plugging it in as normal I have an ME221 ECU.
The OEM loom plug should give you the best results.
1994 Eunos 1800. I can not remember the wiring though.
I use adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors which are expensive but excellent.

Cheers Dickie
Thanks Dickie, did you take all 3 feeds from the plug or just the signal?
 

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Installed it in about 30 mins or so was easy. What year car do you have. In my 94 1.8. I cut the old lambda sensor of and used the top two cables from the connectors (blue and a black one) black needs to be connected to the red (power) cables of the gauge and LC-2. The blue gets connected to the yellow lc-2 and white off the guage. The brown from the lc-2 is not needed. For the earth I ran a line from the same earth as the ecu and connected the yellow wire from the guage and both black lines from the guage and lc-2. I earthed the yellow line as I didn't want it to dim at night time. I think that's right It all works. Just make sure I have given the colour of cables correct . The blue line of the lambda plug is to the ecu and the black is power
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Installed it in about 30 mins or so was easy. What year car do you have. In my 94 1.8. I cut the old lambda sensor of and used the top two cables from the connectors (blue and a black one) black needs to be connected to the red (power) cables of the gauge and LC-2. The blue gets connected to the yellow lc-2 and white off the guage. The brown from the lc-2 is not needed. For the earth I ran a line from the same earth as the ecu and connected the yellow wire from the guage and both black lines from the guage and lc-2. I earthed the yellow line as I didn't want it to dim at night time. I think that's right It all works. Just make sure I have given the colour of cables correct . The blue line of the lambda plug is to the ecu and the black is power
That's really helpful, thanks Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Installed it in about 30 mins or so was easy. What year car do you have. In my 94 1.8. I cut the old lambda sensor of and used the top two cables from the connectors (blue and a black one) black needs to be connected to the red (power) cables of the gauge and LC-2. The blue gets connected to the yellow lc-2 and white off the guage. The brown from the lc-2 is not needed. For the earth I ran a line from the same earth as the ecu and connected the yellow wire from the guage and both black lines from the guage and lc-2. I earthed the yellow line as I didn't want it to dim at night time. I think that's right It all works. Just make sure I have given the colour of cables correct . The blue line of the lambda plug is to the ecu and the black is power
Also, mine is a 1997 mk1 1.8
 

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Should be the same. If your struggling I'll get some pictures for you
It seems pretty straight forward, however I think the wire colours might be different so I'll get the multimeter out. The ground at the ECU, is that just a connection to one of the bolts holding the case down? I was also thinking that one of the connections at the old O2 sensor must be a sensor ground, as per the diagram in the first post?
 

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No mate the earth that the ecu uses is the common earth connector in the engine bay near the window washer bottle. I crimped a ring tung connector to some cable and attached it to the connector fastener. I read somewhere that if you use a different earth to the ecu then you can get a discrepancies between the guage and the ecu
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No mate the earth that the ecu uses is the common earth connector in the engine bay near the window washer bottle. I crimped a ring tung connector to some cable and attached it to the connector fastener. I read somewhere that if you use a different earth to the ecu then you can get a discrepancies between the guage and the ecu
This one

d7b144721329d8a2ec9bac8e1c617beb.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, so I thought I'd close this thread with how I finally wired in the LC2 controller and gauge. The initial suggestion came from Matus over at Revent, he said he generally connects into the original O2 sensor plug, however, looking for any kind of information on this drew a blank. Through a lot of reading, conversation and staring at wiring diagrams I concluded that I could indeed connect all the feeds required to the existing O2 plug (where the old sensor plugged in). Using the Multimeter and after a conversation with Roger Clarke I came up with this diagram (mine is a 1997 mk1, wiring will differ for others ages I guess?)

0700245b841258b39b5febf8ccebd1da.jpg


So I made up a loom using the old plug (this was shrink wrapped after)

fea8272fda4470af3fee067328f2d423.jpg


Plugged in and run through the firewall, looks pretty OEM

90fdf0f73e4149d390884b8aa673f0e3.jpg


Tomshep86 gave me a few tips on the wiring in the cab, basically this

b92e5bc7855a20c52deba04bdaff605e.jpg


All done, turned the key and everything was as it should be - green gauge to match the auxiliary gauges I installed and the main binnacle

65ebf0fc78665529957bb5fc97a25617.jpg


Thanks for all the help folks

Marvin
 

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Thanks for for all your help with this Marvin. I never even thought it was possible to take all my wires for the Wideband from the OEM look so spotting your thread was was good news for me. It makes for a nice neat and hastle free install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for for all your help with this Marvin. I never even thought it was possible to take all my wires for the Wideband from the OEM look so spotting your thread was was good news for me. It makes for a nice neat and hastle free install.
Roger, you should put your diagram up, it's far neater than mine!
 

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Wow, just what I needed to see. Just about to order a wideband to connect to my ME221.

Would soldering the joins be ok or strictly use butt connectors/male-female plugs?

Also, my G19 downpipe is a blank canvas so I can have the wideband bung connected in anywhere, I hear various things about where the best place to install it is, in the downpipe 3ft away, after the decat etc.

Where are all of yours?
 

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Wow, just what I needed to see. Just about to order a wideband to connect to my ME221.

Would soldering the joins be ok or strictly use butt connectors/male-female plugs?

Also, my G19 downpipe is a blank canvas so I can have the wideband bung connected in anywhere, I hear various things about where the best place to install it is, in the downpipe 3ft away, after the decat etc.

Where are all of yours?
I soldered my connections in the engine bay and the shrink wrapped them, I then shrink wrapped the cables together to form the loom. I used plugs in the car.

The wideband bung, apparently it needs to me 1m from the turbo, it puts it near the gear stick opening. It was recommended to me to run the cable under the shift boot. If you have a look in the picture below you can see the plug for the O2 sensor sticking out by the gear stick, its there ready to receive the plug from below. Apparently it's ok to tighten the shift boot down on to the cable, I'll probably wrap the cable in a bit of insulation tape just to give it a bit more strength.

685e77d19aff7f189872f6ed8101cf92.jpg


I went with the innovate LC2, its pretty incognito and when it lights up it's green so matches all the other gauges and the main binnacle

Hope that helps

Marv
 
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