Mazda MX-5 Miata banner

"Whisper" - A Black '94 1.8L Na V-Special

87K views 561 replies 104 participants last post by  Jacksheps  
#1 ·
(You may have read this on another forum. I'm cheating and copy n pasting it. Sorry!)

A bit of an intro and hopefully a thread to come back to and update with our adventures.
Image
Hi everyone!

Image

As pictured in her AutoTrader advert.

Image

The conditions I brought her in. A masterclass in breaking every rule of car buying. Dark, Raining, Car with no history, Test drive to the end of the road and back.

Oh well. I'm handy with a spanner. I'll forgive myself for buying with my heart on this one.

Image

Back home. Managed 87 miles before the snow descended and she got parked up for the Christmas break.

The first change. From this -
Image


To this -
Image


Next, From this -
Image


To this -
Image


In my opinion all black 5's should be de-tango'd by law. So -
Image


Image


But that makes the reflectors really obvious. Easily solved -
Image


Image


Image


A sticker! Hey it's my midlife crisis and I will include stickers in that if I wanna!

Image


Image


And last for now, a drift charm. I did slide the rear on a roundabout, by accident. No one noticed but I officially have declared it a drift and therefore I am allowed a charm

Image


There is also the blog if you follow such things. it is at http://www.eunos-roadster.co.uk

Cheers!
C
 
#548 ·
Nice! I was sort of hoping to see an illuminated switch for the LC, as I'm simply stumped how it can be down without sending power back to the ecu.

Also, I was toying with the idea for AGES to put the AC button to use for Launch control, I think if you scratch of the some of the 'A' you could be left with 'L' and then have an LC button :)

The mk2 button is too easy to press though so gave up with that idea.

Table switching is something I now need to wire up as my ecu went to shit and needs looking at by Skuzzle again, be rude not to give it another run on some stronger jungle juice.
Also nice to see that's also on a 'on/off' switch. did you change just the ignition table for some extra noise on overrun?

Above 3.5k I've got about 12-20 on the overrun timing, makes lots of noise!
 
#549 · (Edited by Moderator)
This has reinforced my belief that you are a genius.
LoL! Thank you mate.

Brilliant. My hat is doffed once more!
Cheers man!

Great 2 day read. With lots of info for us newbs to FI.
Two days! I'm flattered that anyone would put in that amount of time to read anything I wrote. Especially a man as busy as yourself. Thank you!

Nice! I was sort of hoping to see an illuminated switch for the LC, as I'm simply stumped how it can be down without sending power back to the ecu.

Also, I was toying with the idea for AGES to put the AC button to use for Launch control, I think if you scratch of the some of the 'A' you could be left with 'L' and then have an LC button :)

The mk2 button is too easy to press though so gave up with that idea.

Table switching is something I now need to wire up as my ecu went to shit and needs looking at by Skuzzle again, be rude not to give it another run on some stronger jungle juice.
Also nice to see that's also on a 'on/off' switch. did you change just the ignition table for some extra noise on overrun?

Above 3.5k I've got about 12-20 on the overrun timing, makes lots of noise!
Illuminated button for launch control would be pretty simple really. I wanted mine 'stealth' so didn't bother with a light. (Although there might be a stealth light coming soon. Top secret for now)

You want the clutch switch wired to launch control with your illuminated switch as an arm/override to that. The ECU input wants a switch to earth so that's perfect because the clutch switch is a switched earth.

Find the earth wire to the clutch switch and cut it. Wire that through the switch of a relay. Activate the relay with a live feed through an illuminated switch.

Something like -

LaunchControl.png


The other side of the clutch switch is already wired to the ECU. Which pin will depend on which model year. Find that pin, jumper it internally in the ECU to the IN of one of the inputs. Jumper the OUT of that input to FLEX.

Then configure Launch to be activated by FLEX.

Bosh, Launch control on the clutch switch with an illuminated arming switch. (The wiring of the switch will depend on the type of switch)

My table switch doesn't do much at the moment :( Both sets of tables are identical. Haven't had time to play with them yet. Will probably just Get Dale at Bailey to have a play when I'm in for a tune tweak at the weekend.
 
#550 ·
See that a why ive not managed to do it!

'Put wire to ground' was all I had in the instructions, obviously I wanted the illuminated switch first, which wants to output 12v when on, no ground.

Then I wanted to go to the handbrake switch, so when handbrake is up and contact is on the switch-earth, the launch is active, drop handbrake and launch off

I can wire that up easy enough without a illuminated switch but ideally wanted it so flick the fighter pilot switch on, that illuminates suggesting something cool can happen, and also remind me the switch is on lol, then the actual contact to ground only when handbrake is up.

All too complicated for me going through relays and pins in the ecu :(
 
#551 ·
Cerb, when your next in the car can you do me a huge favour?

Ive got launch just wired through ground now, gave up with the illuminated switch

Still not actually used it as car needs the map looking at again first, but if you could, can you try connect tunerstudio on ignition, and flick the switch on and off (or switch then clutch or however you've wired it). Can you tell me if your 'launch on' turns off again when the either the clutch comes up and switch turned off again?

The only way I can make it show off again is to turn the car off and on again.

As said I haven't tried it with the engine running yet.
 
#552 ·
Cerb, when your next in the car can you do me a huge favour?

Ive got launch just wired through ground now, gave up with the illuminated switch

Still not actually used it as car needs the map looking at again first, but if you could, can you try connect tunerstudio on ignition, and flick the switch on and off (or switch then clutch or however you've wired it). Can you tell me if your 'launch on' turns off again when the either the clutch comes up and switch turned off again?

The only way I can make it show off again is to turn the car off and on again.

As said I haven't tried it with the engine running yet.
Mine turns straight off when I flick the override switch or lift the clutch. Maybe Reverant's firmware handles it differently?

If it's any help. Here are my launch settings -

Screen%20Shot%202015-05-11%20at%2014.20.


Bear in mind with this launch control stuff that it is totally pointless on a supercharged car. It's a good tool to spool a turbo pre-launch. But since superchargers live in a land of no lag it's just a childish noise making device.

:drool:
 
#553 · (Edited by Moderator)
The final numbers are in..... Well, final, for now....

You may remember from an earlier update that Whisper went to see Dale at Bailey Performance and came away with 215bhp at the wheels. But she also revealed herself to have a failing fuel pump. This meant she wasn't maintaining fuel pressure at high rpm and the mix was leaning out horribly at 6500rpm. Not a good place to be. So at the last visit a spark cut rpm limit of 6200rpm was imposed.

Dale came up with the solution to the pump problem. He knows a guy who does a lot of work on Nissan GT-Rs. The fuel pump is the same form factor as the one used in an MX5 and in the GT-R it's good for 700bhp.

D37CC3C6-9888-4B5A-B1D5-915E93DA6E2B.jpg


(Available here - http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=206866)

Problem solved :thumb-up:

(Fitting video will be part of the next episode of Garage C :yes:

Pump fitted, fuel pressure problem solved

COPS fitted, spark blowout problem solved

Back to Bailey!!!

5479E0F7-C766-404A-82C9-7DD64ECB51FE.jpg


The final scores....

3A0139FA-C229-494E-AD97-F88F003930EB.jpg


219bhp at the wheels. Which I shall, of course, be rounding up and quoting as 220bhp at the wheels.

244.3bhp at the flywheel. Much more than that and the rods will cry 'enough!'. So until I go forged, that's a good place to be.

While she was on the rollers she did develop a slight driveline vibration. Which we think we narrowed down to the drivers side rear wheel bearing going a bit grumbly.

A little job for the winter during the subframe swaps I think :thumb-up:

We also, while we were there, added a little bit of timing between 1500 and 2500rpm. Which has taken out a slight flat spot.

As well as adding a copy of the first fuel map into fuel map two. But with all the fuel taken out of the bottom row of fuel map two. So now I have 'Everyday sanity - map1" and "Hooligan pops and bangs on the overrun - map2" :whistle:

We went home via the 'scenic route'

8E0047B7-588B-4B27-9B2A-C0328558EAF5.jpg


The only downside is now I'm so broke I can't afford to put petrol in her! :wallbash:
 
#555 ·
Damn nice! 1.8 really pays off when you're looking for big numbers :)

Will the gearbox and diff handle it though?
 
#556 · (Edited by Moderator)
I ran the 5-speed at the same power for 1-2 years before changing to the 6-speed. Including track, auto-x. But I always was a bit wary before I changed the box.

Usually, one cleans out 4'th gear on the 5-speed, and therefore should be able to get home when it goes, unless something jams in a sensitive place.

Congrats on the power.

also, this smiley should be ":cerberus:" :rasta: