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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

Viewing an MX5 tomorrow, a mk2 2000 Icon. I owned a mk2.5 Euphonic before a few years back so know what to look out for! Looks like this example has some issues with rust on the passenger side, albeit not half as bad as some of the examples I viewed the first time round! Attached pics.

I wanted to budget enough to get this sorted by a specialist in the North West. Wondering if anyone has any recommendations or has a rough idea of how much to budget given the photos below. Want to make sure I can knock some cash off to get it sorted.

The car has had its front chassis rails professionally done by MX5 City, but they're slightly further away than I'd ideally like to take it if possible. I messaged Carl at CBS Autos and he doesn't do welding any more in his shop.

Cheers, Callum.

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Sorry, what welding are you saying it needs? There's nothing I can see that can't be dealt with with a grind back and re-sealing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, what welding are you saying it needs? There's nothing I can see that can't be dealt with with a grind back and re-sealing.
Well, that's good news. My previous MX5 failed an MOT for a similar amount of rust on the passenger side, so I imagined it would need a new sill? If that's not the case then it's great.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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That's not even really the sill, more the floor plan. Are the arches and chassis legs good?

I know the pictures have expired but cast your eye over this if you can, there are a few seldom inspected areas you ought to be aware of Shadowravens Guide To Mk2 Rust
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's not even really the sill, more the floor plan. Are the arches and chassis legs good?

I know the pictures have expired but cast your eye over this if you can, there are a few seldom inspected areas you ought to be aware of Shadowravens Guide To Mk2 Rust
The chassis legs were done by MX5 City very recently.

Advert mentions some rust starting on the inside passenger arch, something I'll check when I view it tomorrow.

Thanks for the guide that's really useful. If the arch is looking bad, I'll definitely budget the £600 to sort. As well as grinding back and re-sealing the floor pan/sill as you said.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Those prices are years old now. Arch work could be a few hundred on top. Given the work and difficulty it might be worth looking at another car if the arches are bad, but that said the underside does look in good shape.
 

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from those photo's I cannot see anything terrible, theres some rust showing from underseal damage (looks like surface not perforation BUT a good poke or hit will diagnose?)
that's the inner-sill or floor strengthener iirc :unsure:

that area of visable rust is cleanable with sanding or wirebrushing to be rustproofed, if worse than surface rust you'll know and can decide if it needs cutting out & welding (y)

once you cut open & weld you're opening the surrounding metal to corrosion as any rustproofing or anti-corrosion coating on the metal's internal structure will be damaged by the weld's heat


just beware of hidden rot and if theres fresh paint what's hiding behind ito_O


Rich. (cynic.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Those prices are years old now. Arch work could be a few hundred on top. Given the work and difficulty it might be worth looking at another car if the arches are bad, but that said the underside does look in good shape.
Thanks. So long as they are OK I'd be happy to get the work sorted myself. Want to keep it for a few years and turn it into a solid example.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
from those photo's I cannot see anything terrible, theres some rust showing from underseal damage (looks like surface not perforation BUT a good poke or hit will diagnose?)


that's the inner-sill or floor strengthener iirc :unsure:

that area of visable rust is cleanable with sanding or wirebrushing to be rustproofed, if worse than surface rust you'll know and can decide if it needs cutting out & welding (y)

once you cut open & weld you're opening the surrounding metal to corrosion as any rustproofing or anti-corrosion coating on the metal's internal structure will be damaged by the weld's heat

Rich.
Thanks Rich, appreciate your insight. So long as the rust can be brushed away, and rust proofed (Waxoyl seems to be the go to?) then I guess all is ok. Sounds like an OK DIY job. :)
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Avoid wax on external surfaces. It tends to break down over time and get embedded with dirt which holds moisture against the chassis. It's also harder to inspect in future for any chips or rust. Use a paint if you can.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Avoid wax on external surfaces. It tends to break down over time and get embedded with dirt which holds moisture against the chassis. It's also harder to inspect in future for any chips or rust. Use a paint if you can.
Looks like Hammerite have a paint with Waxoyl in it. Looks like it could be a good shout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Silly question do you have the registration and what colour is the paintwork?
It's Art Vin Rouge (all Mk2 Icons are, I believe). I won't disclose the reg in respect of the seller, but it is up for sale now and is in the North West so you may have seen it in the usual places :).
 

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Okay...right colour, some reason I was looking at the blue lift.😖 Comes with the hardtop, worth £600 on it's own.
Mot history is pretty good however not the most fastidious of owners. 4 years running with advisory on rear shock misting oil. As you have mentioned rear outer sill...who repaired and how does it look.

This will come under classic car insurance so another bonus if you wish to drive on a budget. If only car be careful though as you will lose NCB. Looks like a nice car, would like to see receipt for shocks, hopefully done with OEM.

These are great cars and one of the last of the 1840 engines before VVT to less things to go wrong.

Got to be worth £2.5k if only light restoration is required.

Good luck tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay...right colour, some reason I was looking at the blue lift.😖 Comes with the hardtop, worth £600 on it's own.
Mot history is pretty good however not the most fastidious of owners. 4 years running with advisory on rear shock misting oil. As you have mentioned rear outer sill...who repaired and how does it look.

This will come under classic car insurance so another bonus if you wish to drive on a budget. If only car be careful though as you will lose NCB. Looks like a nice car, would like to see receipt for shocks, hopefully done with OEM.

These are great cars and one of the last of the 1840 engines before VVT to less things to go wrong.

Got to be worth £2.5k if only light restoration is required.

Good luck tomorrow.
Cheers Theo, appreciate this :) I did the same with the lift! Will let you know how it goes. The current owner has only had it since May, he's trading up, so all work (including previous MOT, service, chassis rails) were done by the previous owner (unfortunate as I'd have liked to speak to them instead!!).

Rear outer sill / arch doesn't sound like it has been repaired - this is my main concern going into it. I'm happy to sort this at a specialist but only if there's money left in the pot! Got an insurance quote, Admiral Multi car, which was very reasonable anyway but thanks for flagging that, I'd never considered classic insurance.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Hardtops are worth £350-400 now, people can ask £600, £700, £800 all day long but in general comments are turned off pretty quick on those adverts for good reason.

Not all classic policies remove NCB, mine allows me to keep it, I pay £130 a year atm £12000 agreed value, 3k miles a year, M62 supercharged at about 240hp (still being tuned so power needs confirming but wont impact price anymore for me unless I am significantly over this, which I wont be).
 

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Hardtops are worth £350-400 now, people can ask £600, £700, £800 all day long but in general comments are turned off pretty quick on those adverts for good reason.

Not all classic policies remove NCB, mine allows me to keep it, I pay £130 a year atm £12000 agreed value, 3k miles a year, M62 supercharged at about 240hp (still being tuned so power needs confirming but wont impact price anymore for me unless I am significantly over this, which I wont be).
Who you insured with then?

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Axa
 

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A known good welding service is better than taking a punt on an unknown. Even if it involved trailering/driving miles its still worth saving that bit of extra cash and doing it right.

The amount of times we've all seen "avoid x welder, he just replaced the outer skin and now it's rusty again"
 
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