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Finally getting another NC2(6 speed LSD) it's been about 7 years since I had one / did any performance driving. Figured I would see what people are doing in the areas listed below in 2021.

For an idea on grip I will be running the Yoko a052 on OEM wheels. I might do a track day with the stock suspension but will be swapping to Ohlins or something similar very soon. Spring rates will lean more street then track.


Thanks for the help guys looking forward to your suggestions

Brakelines
SS lines

Brake Fluid
I hear the castrol srf stuff is the best and yes I know its pricey 馃ぃ

Brake Pads
My thinking was daily with Hawk HPS then swap to Hawk DTC-60s at the track or day before. I do believe this shouldn't be an issue with the same rotors.

Rotors
Cheap blanks

Oil
My go to back in the day was the Amsoil Dominator and or signature series.
But what else is everyone running and at what weight.

Transmission
Redline was my thinking but again I want to hear other ideas :) Also redline makes a few options so if redline which one.
Also could I get a year from it ? weekend street driving and say 6-10 track events

Diff
Amsoil Severe gear seems good or maybe I just like the easy fill bag lol
Also could I get a year from it ? weekend street driving and say 6-10 track events

Coolant
Was thinking one of the fancy premix from redline or VP
Redline supercool coolant with water wetter
VP Racing Stay Frosty Hi-Performance Coolant

Thermostat
OEM with 60k on it. Does it make sense to change it ? If so OEM or something better

Brake cooling
Had no plans for this. Figured for a stock power car on street tires none would be needed. Please correct me

Oil cooling
Again no plans figured it was not needed.

General cooling
Plan was to leave the cooling system completely stock unless the NC2 requires changes to keep it from over heating. please let me know

Seat
There is a local race shop near me so whatever fits me well and doesn't rub on the door :) Most likely FIA certified

Safety
Local tracks don't require a roll bar and with my car being PRHT options are limited. I will be doing a few track events without a bar with plans to source out a local shop that can do a CLEAN install of a PRHT bar. This is still a street car after all not looking to ditch all the plastics and rear speakers.

A harness will only be used if I get a roll bar with a harness bar. Might look into something to improve the stock belts if they are not doing their job. But in the past I have always ran stock belts with a racing seat.
 

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Finally getting another NC2(6 speed LSD) it's been about 7 years since I had one / did any performance driving. Figured I would see what people are doing in the areas listed below in 2021.

For an idea on grip I will be running the Yoko a052 on OEM wheels. I might do a track day with the stock suspension but will be swapping to Ohlins or something similar very soon. Spring rates will lean more street then track.


Thanks for the help guys looking forward to your suggestions

Brakelines
SS lines
-Not really needed. They do little for pedal feel really, a good MC brace will do significantly more but might not even really be needed on a mk3. I have SS lines on my track car but more due to the fact I have a non-OE brake set up so needed custom lines and as a safety thing as there is less chance some debris will damage a line and affect my braking (only a small risk anyway)

Brake Fluid

I hear the castrol srf stuff is the best and yes I know its pricey 馃ぃ
-Racing fluid really isnt needed. It's silly expensive and you should be bleeding fluid after every track day anyway. Where people go wrong is not using fresh fluid in the first place and so they end up boiling it. Standard dot 4 boils at 230C, if your calipers see 240C they require a full strip down and all the seals replacing right away anyway. Best just buy some cheap dot 4 and always flush the fluid before an event.

Brake Pads

My thinking was daily with Hawk HPS then swap to Hawk DTC-60s at the track or day before. I do believe this shouldn't be an issue with the same rotors.
-On a stock power mk3 HPS will likely be good enough. DTC60s are overkill, if anything the DTC30s will be a good step up. You'll get the biggest gains from working to reduce brake temperatures rather than try and band aid using race pads to deal with the heat. If you can then run brake ducts, they'll make a massive difference. You can also look at swapping on a set of rx8 brakes (should bolt right up and have bigger discs which will dissipate more heat). A really key thing which makes all the difference is using them properly, many people think they need more aggressive pads (more cost, more wear) because they brake too early, too lightly and drag the brakes about the track. What you want to do is brake late and very hard, then once you are down to the speed you need to be get off the brakes ASAP, this will mean they are applied for the shortest amount of time needed so you minimise the time you are putting heat into the discs, and maximise the amount of time they have to cool down before the next bend.

Rotors

Cheap blanks
-Should be fine. If you can get grooved for no extra cost I would say they are worth it, IMO they help condition the pads better and prevent glazing (I run C hook with are always an extra cost but IMO they do have better initial bite and do help with glazing too, plus they look the most racecar). Blanks will be more than fine.

Oil

My go to back in the day was the Amsoil Dominator and or signature series.
But what else is everyone running and at what weight.
-Run the recommended weight. The bearings and everything are designed to work with a set range of viscosity, if you are heating the oil so much it's deteriorating outside of this you are in trouble and running the wrong viscosity in the first place isnt going to help anything. Just be mindful of the oil, check it throughout the day, dont do 50 laps in a row with no cool down, and put fresh oil in for the day and you'll be more than fine.

Transmission

Redline was my thinking but again I want to hear other ideas :) Also redline makes a few options so if redline which one.
Also could I get a year from it ? weekend street driving and say 6-10 track events
-Again, you're safest bet is to put fresh in, be mindful that it's going to heat up too so allow some cool down laps and replace it again after. I replace mine every time I do the engine oil, but other other time will be fine on a track car. Fresh non-heat deteriorated standard is better than old used fancy stuff.

Diff

Amsoil Severe gear seems good or maybe I just like the easy fill bag lol
Also could I get a year from it ? weekend street driving and say 6-10 track events
-Same as above but less critical.

Coolant

Was thinking one of the fancy premix from redline or VP
Redline supercool coolant with water wetter
VP Racing Stay Frosty Hi-Performance Coolant
-Fresh OE will be fine. Make 100% sure it's properly bled.

Thermostat

OEM with 60k on it. Does it make sense to change it ? If so OEM or something better
-OE will be fine if it's needed. I duno the mk3 service intervals but if it's not due or sticking it's up to you whether you do it for peace of mind.

Brake cooling

Had no plans for this. Figured for a stock power car on street tires none would be needed. Please correct me
-I've mostly answered this above. The cooler they run (within operating range), the less wear you'll have on pads and rotors too.

Oil cooling

Again no plans figured it was not needed.
Will be fine. I've touched on this too

General cooling

Plan was to leave the cooling system completely stock unless the NC2 requires changes to keep it from over heating. please let me know
-Duno about NC2 stuff. Might be worth getting a <拢5 OBD2 (if the mk3s have it) dongle, and free app, and doing some logging to see how temperatures are when you are out, that way you'll know if there's something that needs addressing. I'm pretty sure if you have all the factory air guides you'll be more than fine.

Seat

There is a local race shop near me so whatever fits me well and doesn't rub on the door :) Most likely FIA certified
-Very underrated and worth while upgrade. Allows you to focus on just driving and the support is much better. It might be worth looking at one that works with a HANS if you are worried about safety, for 拢200 a HANS is a really cheap device for the extra safety it provides. Not all HANS compatible seats are stated as such due to marketing for items higher up the range, for example the Corbuea Sprint isnt stated as being so but is as confirmed from Corbuea themselves (same moulding as the seat in the range above just a different rear mould).

Safety

Local tracks don't require a roll bar and with my car being PRHT options are limited. I will be doing a few track events without a bar with plans to source out a local shop that can do a CLEAN install of a PRHT bar. This is still a street car after all not looking to ditch all the plastics and rear speakers.
-There are some bolt in bars for the PRHT. It's worth getting at some point but not needed right away. Despite all the BS, mx5s having a low centre of gravity doesnt make them immune to flipping, catch a curb wrong, slide off and dig in, etc and it's not that hard to roll a car. However, mk3s have way better roll over protection than the mk1 and mk2s so you might be fine with what there is from factory. Whether you want harnesses might also be a consideration for a bar.

A harness will only be used if I get a roll bar with a harness bar. Might look into something to improve the stock belts if they are not doing their job. But in the past I have always ran stock belts with a racing seat.
-If you get a harness, get a 5 or 6 point, they are barely any extra and offer way better protection than a 4 point. For the sake of drilling 1 hole and doing up 1 extra bolt they are no harder to install either. I will say keep the stock belt as well though, having only a harness is not only a PITA for the road, but it's also pretty dangerous (more likely to have a head on collision on the road and with a harness your body stays fixed but your head is still going to snap forward pretty hard. This is actually where the benefit for a HANS on track is a well, as your head will also have an extra 1kg or so weight from a helmet which is a lot of extra inertia). If you get a harness, I'd recommend getting a HANS as well.
For the sake of ease I've tried to keep my reply brief as there's a load of detail I could go into. I've added it to the quote
 
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