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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I do believe the light shroud on rear could be a concept 7 item.. hopefully not bonded on.
Early cars had square light for side and brake lights. Later cars it was round light emmitted and these lights are expensive. So this shroud makes them look round.
Mine are round as took em apart and converted with a round stencil and spray paint lol. Saved myself £350.
Standard oem parts Clive at Mazda Rotary Parts.com
Hes my mate who races a rx8 with 550bhp plus rx7 rew init.
He really is the oracle on rotaries and if you need standard or aftermarket parts hes got em and tested them on track.
The rotary community is a funny place its small and got its diehard tuner fans. Im not on any of the forums as i tbh find them toxic when a newbie asks a simple question. Just be warned lol.
If you have any questions just ask..ill offer my opinion and if i dont know ill say so.
Did the previous owner do the fuel filter? Worth doing when under car it often gets missed as its a pita.
Any qs happy to help. Theres some funny querks to these cars but once you know em your set.
Id highly recommend also an aftermarket alarmed coolant temp gauge.. the standard gauge is non linear.. its sits in middle and then when too hot dinks to red.. my defi coolant gauge alarms at 98degc.. its saved my engine twice. Inc. On track a split rad.

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That's a lot of useful knowledge thank you! I'll get on that! Yeah I think I'll change the fuel pump and do the filter while I'm there! Luckily the concept 7 light shroud isn't clipped or bonded on, its just fit over the top; it will pull right off! I'll keep the forum toxicity in mind haha! Thank you for offering to help me with any questions, you're a top bloke!

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Lol no worries. Ive got lots of rotary rx7 rx8 knowledge floating around in my swede mainly learnt the hard way lol.

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Lop no worries. Ive got lots of rotary rx7 rx8 knowledge floating around in my swede mainly learnt the hard way lol.

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I can imagine! I'm very excited to join the rotary club!

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Great weekend with the TGUK boys! Car is running much better after Alex Hickson sorted me out a decent map!




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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
My mate sorted me some rollers and static pics from the weekend, I'm so happy with how the car looks! The car is in for a new downpipe now so just gotta wait for the phone call and then I can go and collect it!


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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Got the 5 back from the exhaust place! Finally fixed my bodged exhaust! FYI if you're gonna VVT swap your mk1 and keep the mk1 exhaust be prepared for a lot of cutting and welding up if you want to do it properly


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Got the 5 back from the exhaust place! Finally fixed my bodged exhaust! FYI if you're gonna VVT swap your mk1 and keep the mk1 exhaust be prepared for a lot of cutting and welding up if you want to do it properly


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I had someone do my VVT swap and at the same time weld up a Toyosports 4-2-1 manifold to my existing mk1 exhaust set up :p I know I cheated
 

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Hi mate, long awaited rx7 info.
probably end up a ramble lol. ill put here as always good for others to read.

1. Engine. Despite all the hype. Ive found mine to be nothing but reliable probably because im very particular with maintenance and preflight checks and warming up.
every year or 3k i change oil 10w40 semi synthetic. I fill to 3/4 as i tracked mine and oil comes out the combined breather fill tube otherwise. I premix 250ml per tank roaduse and 600ml track use. I use exol 2t jaso fd premix oil. £30 for 5L
Every 2 years i drop the coolant and drain the block ( there is drain port passenger side centre iron). Bleeding up is pita i know raise the front of the car and burp all the pipes. usually takes 2 drive cycles to find its level. The overflow tank is under rh headlight. Its normal for some coolant to push out spirited driving and when it cools pull back in. After coolant flush you may get the buzzer ( 10sec blow level switch to come on and GO OFF). The oem temp gauge is absolutely rubbish. It sits in the middle and car can get to 115 deg and still not move. at 120 it will ping to red hot. I strongly advised to fit an aftermarket quality coolant gauge with upper alarm saved my engine twice. If you drill and tap the coolant tower you will see when the thermostat opens. which is handy for warm up b4 getting on loud pedal.
Idle and stalling...old tech here my car has suffered this annoying trait and been through all issues.
1. clutch switch. if this is failed will stall at junctions. easy cheap fix and if you have a PFC APEXI ecu you can check it in the sensor menu. allows you to see all inputs/outputs.
2. The warm up enrichment is done via thermowax pellet on the throttlebody. Its a tiny feed and return to tower water pipe. if it get blocked then no coolant flow and crap idle.
3. ive checked my TPS several times and all with factory spec. ive messed with the idle screw and caused hunting. The oem manuald are step by step checking and setting of these. Id advise leave alone and look else where.
Starting cold and hot...Cold. crank with clutch in.. car fires up...i know do a walk around and looksee under car for any leaks. You will have start up smoke for about 5 mins totally normal. get back in car and just drive it. itll warm up quicker under load anyway. Stay off boost for a good 10 mins plus then partial boost then have some fun.
Hot start..mine starts better hot than cold lol. typically catches straight away. Prob a tiny puff of smoke but no where near like the cold start. If coolant buzzer goes off wait 20 secs b4 acting. If it does continue to go off. Lift bonnet and check for obvious leaks b4 switching off. When safe todo so. top up coolant tower and check level in expansion vessel.
very rare but mine does sometimes need topping off..But only really after coolant flush for first few drive cycles. Remember to put heater on max to and blower on so you know its bled. part2 next
 

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Sparks, 2 per housing leading and trailing.. or Lowerleading and top trailing how i remember it. Coils on these fd very good. Hks twinspark good mod but very rare. I change my plugs when i fill guilty that i have not done for a year or 2 lol. My car is now a weekend car so mileage will not be massive. Id prob change max 6k.
Fuel. i use tesco 99. its mapped for it so thats what i use. It drinks like a mofo. OMP. oil metering pump...this is what injects sump oil to lubricate the apex seals. Its dirty sump oil. I disabled mine and premix in the fuel tank.
TUNE TUNE TUNE. a bad tune will blow a rotary up..the slightest detonation and bye bye engine. Any mods thereafter back to check the tune... Wanna fit a free flowing exhaust...needs a tune straight after. Anything that makes it flow in or out better will cause a lean condition and bye bye engine.
part 3 next
 

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Chassis.
Suspension. check for knocks in pillowballs. these are proper race spec suspension joints and ere not cheap. I replaced all of mine with oem as they all had slight play prob 5 years ago. alloy arms etc all quality and proper zinc coated fastners so nothing rusts like an rx8 or mx5. Mazda really went to town on the chassis and it handles fantastic when set up right. Lots of adjustability which means it can be done wrong and be down right sketchy.. Ive had to reverse an alignment that was awful in the past and luckily had set up sheets from b4. wheels etc.. cant take upto 265 on 18s in the rear and 235s in the front with no rubbing correct offsets. After that fender flares etc. .
rev gauge hopefully yours works.. mines erratic taken the cluster apart so many times and redone earths and wired tacho direct onto pin.. i gave up as every time i touched it id introduce another fault. so mines is all working...apart from a rev gauge that got a mind of its own... sometimes nothing sometime works other times its pinned to 8k... my 1st had a rev shift buzzer which was handy this 1 does not..I fitted a shift light job done.

its an old car now...so
slow wipers. its the bushes on the wipers spindles like the mx5 suffers.
door handles break...be careful.. ive just repinned mine.
Lights are crap at night...old h4 tech...if you uprate them careful not to melt H4 plug best uprate.

windows can be slow and interior plastics brittle. general old car tlc.

temps i run at max 90deg C oil n coolant on track.. 84/84 on road. aftermarket koyo multipass rad very good idea.

printing off oem manuals very good idea for looks through and read.

security.. defo want a cat1 alarm. mine is immobilised and i take the snap off steering wheel off when not in use.

Driving. respect in the wet is the name of the game here. no driver aids lol. other than that . wait til warm and then rev cleanly out til red line. cool down 5 mins b4 shutting off. If you can do this then it wont heat soak if shut off hot.
It gets hot in the car and the tunnel gets hot from the exhaust all normal.

negs..every boy racer will be up yer arse and wanna scalp an Rx7. Normal driving folk will not let you out of junctions and usually deliberately drive slow in front of you. At petrol stations you'll have 10 pairs of eyes on you as you crouch down to fill the ol girl up and usually someone will want to talk to you, this can be good and bad depending! " bet that uses alot of oil mate" " my mate had 1 it blew up" "how many engines have you had" etc etc. lol.

cant think of anything else right now ill add if i think of anything else.
 
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