[dadbif]

The charger pulley has grooves and the idler and tension pulleys are smooth, therefore the position of the charger determines the angle that the belt follows over the other pulleys. It took me ages to get it to run perfectly, I eventually perfected it (after using straight edges, lasers etc) by just very slightly slackening the charger mounting bolts and tapping the charging back and forward slightly until the belt ran true.
tapping is a lie, I twatted it with a lump hammer and a lump of wood.
Once I found the sweet spot I measured it so I could always replace it if I ever removed the charger.

 

[BEN99W]

Is your crank pulley suspect from running loose? I changed to a fluid dampner at the start of the year and have a crank pully thats done 35k sitting on my work bench that I'd happy post to you if it would be any use.

Ben

 

[Shadowraven]

Yeh it might be a little, its hard to tell. It is a 23 year old pulley with 100k miles on it. If you've a spare going I would be really grateful for it thanks.

 

[BEN99W]

PM me your address and Ill pop it in the post.

 

[Shadowraven]

Engine mounts now fully installed and PPF alignment sorted. I did actually drain the gearbox and the diff to check they actually had fluid in them and was surprised to find they did (the box had 1.6L so likely not quite filled enough. There was a puddle on the floor at the shop when I went to collect the old exhaust which was apparently from my car where they'd forgotten something but I can't remember why, I think it was they'd forgotten to swap the rear seal). However, a load of the gearbox sensor wiring was left unsecured and the diff bushes have been installed upside down....... it's literally not even a joke now. So, to summarise all the issues and faults from the cars time at Unit 3 as I think I have gone over most things now:

-Incorrectly diagnosed water pump failure.
-Incorrectly diagnosed pulley delamination.
-Above were a loose crank pulley.
-Driving the car 30 miles to and from MOT with a loose pulley sheared bolts, damaging woodruff key, crank hub and crank shaft.
-Suspect incorrectly claimed loose crank bolt (car had done 7 years and near 40k miles on it so seems odd there'd be a problem just when they happen to have the car). No loctite applied to crank bolt as claimed along with claiming they torqued it up.
-ICV and cam sensor wiring hacked into as ICV had no power. No attempt to investigate/ resolve. Didn't solder joins, just wrapped wire around exposed cable and stuck tape over it despite claiming it had all been properly soldered. Solution to no power to ICV was a firmware update, took me 30 seconds.
-BOV fitting on IC pipe welded angled upwards so BOV contacts bonnet when engine is under load.
-Dual TBs changed and set incorrectly with precharger TB set as primary TB.
-Incorrectly diagnosed BOV interference with idle. Problem was actually TBs being unbalanced.
-Sent for MOT despite poor tune, knocking from crank pulley, no cat and ABS light on. Charged over £150 for the privilege.
-Momo Gear knob collar missing and not returned with the car.
-Invoiced for engine mount fitting which wasn't done. Argued that it must be something else mislabelled yet couldn't justify it.
-Centre console damaged where it has been forced shut on items.
-Claimed tyres out of round. Had them checked elsewhere and they are fine.
-Claimed incorrect LED side colours. Again, when checked elsewhere they are fine.
-Claimed tune is good with regard to idle, drivability etc, just isn't making the power it could. Incorrect, idles very badly and at 11 AFR and rest of tune means the car is undriveable.
-Exhaust V bands loose enough to undo by hand, as a result there was a massive exhaust leak
-Gearbox to PPF alignment incorrect
-Wideband harness moved and now rubbing on a number of things
-Gearbox sensor harnesses left loose and unsecured
-Differential bushes installed upside down

 

[Zed.]

Christ.


I've seen many similar stories with local (to me) experts & specialists - makes me happy to do all my own work 🤨

Rich.

 

[Shadowraven]

I fully agree. The diff mounts were to save my time and because one of the bolts was seized and rounded, and the gearbox isn't something I can do on stands really. I just didn't expect this level of issues, live and learn I guess. Not sure what to do about the diff bushes, iv messaged bofi (it's their bushes) to explain and ask how much of an issue it is now the PPF alignment is ok.

 

[dadbif]

Good grief!

 

[guitaristanime]

I'm kind of lost for words to be honest. Somethings are forgivable in some ways but there's some things that can't be overlooked.

 

[Shadowraven]

Bofi has replied

So yeh diff mounts upside down and I do need to pull the diff and correct it... what a total waste of money...

 

[Shadowraven]

The diff bushes have been the last straw really, I've messaged with the full list of issues I've found and asked for some money back again. I doubt very much anything will come of it but it seems that plenty of people have actually seen this thread and the details of the issues I've had so maybe it'll encourage them to try and remedy the situation a bit.

To put it into perspective the only things that I paid (£1400, excluding trailer fees) for that were completed correctly where a 6 speed/clutch install (I assume as I can't really check things like the bearings and seals were done without dropping the box, and ignoring that the PPF wasnt aligned right, and the assorted issues with wiring), V-bands welded onto the OE cat/exhaust fitting, beading of the IC pipes...

 

[Dickie]

Another good reason to do my own work. I have changed a gearbox with the car on stands single handed. I have also fitted a new release bearing on another one. Both cars done while I was in my 50s. Just need good space to work and decent jack and axle stands plus couple of bits of timber and some rope.

 

[Shadowraven]

I've pulled the diff out today, a job I absolutely hate, and it wasn't without surprises. The first was there was this loose strip of metal in my midpipe. I have no idea what on earth it's from or how it's got in there. I checked the exhaust over fully when I received it and it was fine. Being in the midpipe as well with nothing but clear pipe in front of it means it can't be anything related to the back box.

When pulling the diff I also found the seals were pretty shagged, and on one the spring had been forced into the differential and chewed up from use.... No where has seals in stock so I've had to order some, I just hope they can arrive by tomorrow and I can get everything put back together and actually do something on my days off other than have to work on the car.

Also, just as proof the bushes were the wrong way up (the left one wasn't installed fully either)-

Just for my reference I've thrown a shorter belt on too, 1250 and it looks to be good enough. I dont want to over tighten the manual aspect of the tensioner too much and stress the bearings but there is now enough clearance on the autotensioner that I'm happy. I've redone the alignment again. SC tilt is 0.1 degrees out, left and right are within like 0.25mm of each other, charger pulley for and aft is within 0.5mm of the crank, same with the tensioner pulley for and aft, and the tensioner angle is 0.4 degrees. I was a little worried about the tensioner angle but over a 76mm pulley it works out at about 0.3mm which is what Aran was running on his M45 and so small it shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Zed.]

loose strip of metal in my midpipe

looks like the stainless-strip used in some gaskets (mostly industrial composite craphite types but some exhausts use similar) or part of a flexi-joint's conveluted structure
have a looksee....

Rich.

 

[Shadowraven]

No flexi on my exhaust. I duno how it could have got in the mid pipe or why. There was nothing like it when I unboxed the exhaust. Everything upstream of the midpipe is just pipe atm, no cat, it was just loose sitting in there, very odd.

 

[BEN99W]

Could the strip of metal have been a part of the seam of the exhaust tubing itself that had been cut untidily and eventually broken free. It looks pretty long so I cant see is progressing through the bends of the exhaust, nor think of anything upstream it could have come from.

 

[Shadowraven]

Diff bushes reinstalled correctly, fresh seals installed, everything torqued up, gearbox aligned and new crush washers all around as the old ones looked pretty ropey. I've also added new diff fluid as the stuff in there must have been reused as it was black. Car should now be mostly ready to find someone to map it properly, I've had Bailey recommended a few times now so might see if they can look over the map and get it functional so I can drive it to an MOT then take it somewhere under its own power.

 

[guitaristanime]

Diff bushes reinstalled correctly, fresh seals installed, everything torqued up, gearbox aligned and new crush washers all around as the old ones looked pretty ropey. I've also added new diff fluid as the stuff in there must have been reused as it was black. Car should now be mostly ready to find someone to map it properly, I've had Bailey recommended a few times now so might see if they can look over the map and get it functional so I can drive it to an MOT then take it somewhere under its own power.

Bailey don't do any remote work at all. I already asked.

 

[Shadowraven]

Bailey don't do any remote work at all. I already asked.

interesting, on their site is says they will provide a driveway ready tune". It might be different if it's to get the car in a state to go to them for proper mapping.

 

[Shadowraven]

Gotta drive it over 10/15mph so abs module sees wheel sensor pulses.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

10 points. This appears to have worked, although getting it to 10mph was horrible, no power, lots of surging etc.