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Banish a little rust a day people
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5,237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #622 ·

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Banish a little rust a day people
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5,237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #625 ·
Gt2860r.. blonde moment.

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We have a winner.
I had a look at the 2560r and poured over a load of US forum posts about spool etc and learnt that it's pretty much all a crap shoot. With the exception off the odd TD04 or 2554 pretty much everything from the 2560 - 2871 can spool at basically the same pace and other factors like manifold has more of an impact than the turbo by the look of it. On a VVT motor with EBC, 3" DP, kraken manifold (meant to be very good flowing) I should see 10psi around 3000rpm +/- 100-200rpm, and be making 5 or 6 psi by 2500rpm. As I've a 6 speed to go in to shorten the gearing up anyway I doubt there will be enough lag to bother me on the road, and on track at above 5k rpm the turbo will be nicely efficient and minimise heat. It'll also suit my eventual power goal if I decide to forge the engine. I nearly got the gtx2860r again at the last minute but it looks like the 2860rs is more efficient for my use. The gtx would spool about 200-300 rpm sooner, which I would notice, but if that were the deciding factor a smaller turbo would be better anyway, the 2860r keeps up with the gtx well for my potential eventual goals, and the benefit of a gtx would only really be realised if I were to push past 6 speed destroying power levels, which just isn't going to happen.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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5,237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #626 ·
New ABS sensor arrived and test fitted but all three codes are still present (11, 41, 51) so something else must be going on. No idea what it could be. Maybe a dead module?
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #628 ·
You had the battery off foot on brake proper reset.

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I'm not sure, I did ten presses in under 10 seconds. I did call the mx5restorer for some advice and they said it shouldn't be necessary, the codes should clear right away with no need to do anything once the fault is sorted. I had the light on and off intermittently for a few years which seems to agree.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #630 ·
kk, i'll give it ago, cheers.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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5,237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #631 ·
Celica passed it's MOT today with zero issues, gotta love Jap cars. It has BP10 pads now, they aren't as well bedded as the BP20s yet but there is still some occasional squeal which worries me. I'm not sure whether all Wilwood pads are just cheap and loud or whether there's something else going on. I have no idea what it could be. All the pads are greased on the back and sides, spring clips are good, pistons seem pretty free, I had the garage pay particular attention to the bushes and wheel bearings but I can't work out why. I duno if the pistons are sticking every so slightly under light brake pressure and that's causing it or what, really stumped. I'll have to keep an eye on it and see if it gets any worse, but I can't be dealing with them if they turn out like the BP20s, we all recall how bad that was, and if you dont check out the video again a few pages back.
 

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layabout
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duno if the pistons are sticking every so slightly under light brake pressure
old dynalites?

iirc they don't have piston seals and older dynalites don't have the stainless steel liners that stop pads digging into the aluminium bodies ( can be the cause of a sticking pad)

Rich.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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5,237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #633 · (Edited)
About a year old, the new gen ones with the grey coating that do have the liners, but yeh they dont have piston seals. I cleaned them down before pushing them back in and they move freely enough now I think, if I push one in the other on the same side moves out a bit. Some move out before the others but I would have thought this would be expected, they arent all going to have absolutely the exact same resistance, and they retract smoothly from what I can tell. If that slight difference mattered I'd imagine plenty of people would have the same issue as me, tbh i'd expect the same if it was just pad material. Really stumped. The garage suggested it might be the slight rust on the inside edge of the brake disc affecting the pad, but I beveled the BP20s on all edges and it didnt help so wouldn't have thought so.

The noise is worse with the BP20s which are more worn, so maybe it could be the pistons sticking. Being more worn means some pistons can retract further leaving more room for the pad to vibrate in? But then given just how bad the BP20s were I can't help but think pad material was a big part of it. Worth noting I also coated the back of the BP20s with 3M anti-squeal rubberised backing tape (made for brake pads, similar to what a lot of OE pads have) and it made no difference at all. So the noise doesn't seem to be pad backing on piston and is most likely pad on disc.

With both pads it's also worse once they are warm. I can get a few quiet brakes in when cold. I'm not sure how much information this adds though.
 
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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #634 ·
After a little more testing I am 99% sure the pad noise is due to material. Slight rust on the discs 1-2mph pull away with light brake pressure and it squeaks. It seems far to slow to be much else, even the pad moving the carrier wouldn't be able to vibrate with a high enough frequency to match the noise as the pad would just barely be moving. Been better during normal use now. Will just have to hope it stays that way.

In other news, M62 autotensioner update coming at some point, just need to paint it up before I show it off.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #636 · (Edited)
One of my drill bits decided to bulk up and somehow I was able to cut through the snapped bolt extractor to get the ABS sensor sorted, how this was possible I have no idea as I was sure i'd need a carbide bit. The light is still on but apparently exceeding 10mph should clear it so will try that at a later date, if not I fear it's a new ABS module.

Only thing left to do is swap the engine mounts and then the supercharger can go back in. I need to buy another socket extension to get to them, but I can't really see how the angles are going to line up as I can't seem to get a socket on square due to the upper wishbone but screw removing that.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #637 ·
Exciting times
Table Wood Automotive tire Flooring Gas
 
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Banish a little rust a day people
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5,237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #638 · (Edited)
Today was meant to be a casual half a day swapping engine mounts but turned into a 9 hour nightmare. The extension bars I ordered to arrive a few days ago to be able to reach the drivers side still haven't turned up but I did the passenger side with very little issue, header out as the supercharger was off anyway and it makes things a lot easier. I did forget to put the mount back with the casing though, and ofc only realised after i'd put it back in, the header, reattached the exhaust etc, so that was fun. That also leads nicely into why today turned into a nightmare, while under the car there were a few things I thought I'd check given just how many issues I have found since getting the car back from Unit 3, and low and behold I was not left empty handed on mistakes. For a start the wideband sensor harness has been moved and cable tied in a different possible so is now rubbing on a tonne of stuff, the v bands were very loose to the point I could undo them by hand, and as a result found I had a massive exhaust leak which partly explains why my car was idling so bad and also why it's so fucking loud. After finding these I decided to check the gearbox alignment and ofc it was out. So a good chunk of the day was wasted correcting issues like that. I'm at a point with the extent of issues I've found to date that I literally dont trust anything they've touched and I'm going to have to check everything, right down to whether there is even any fluid in the box and diff, whether the diff bushes have been put in the correct way up (or even at all at this point).

I am also having a slight issue with the autotensioner. I got everything back in only for it to throw the belt while cranking. Iv spaced the tensioner pulley out a bit more as the belt was riding on the edge and its better but it's still pushing the belt towards the car significantly and eating the belt pretty bad. I need to remeasure the alignment tomorrow but I'm sure it's ok and even if it wasn't it shouldnt be pushing it to this extent. The only thing I can think of is that it's not a square pulley, the edges are about 0.5mm "lower", and the peak of the curve is offset to one side rather than in the centre so it might just be that I need to space it out more to be totally central on the belt and it'll be ok, i honestly dunno.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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5,237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #640 · (Edited)
I bet your supercharger is out of line, mine was when the belts didn’t run centrally.
Maybe. So the way the tensioner sits is offset, so it doesnt line up centrally on the tensioner pulley anyway. This in theory shouldnt be an issue, much in the same way the belt often doesnt run quite centrally on the idler pulleys.

I've just spent 2 hours going over all my SC alignment. Everything is now within about 0.3 degrees of each other. I've checked the idler all the way around and it looks dead straight with the plate. The SC was sat a bit far forwards, maybe 2mm. This would explain the angle in the belt I was seeing between the SC pulley and tensioner, but it I'm not sure if or why it'd cause the belt to walk off the back of the tensioner. I've corrected it and the SC pulley grooves are now within about 0.5mm of the PS pulley that I was using as a reference. I have also checked the alignment with a straight edge from the crank to the SC pulley and it also looks pretty much spot on. The largest error is 0.7 degrees Y axis tilt from the crank pulley to the charger pulley, but it is very difficult to lie a metal bar over the face of it and get the angle gauge down there, and the crank face is obviously rusty so I don't know how accurate this is. The SC pulley is under 0.3 degrees out from the blanking plate on the water pump outlet which is commonly used as a reference in place of the crank pulley though. Guess I'll throw the belt on again tomorrow and see.

One aspect I really have very little idea on is what an acceptable margin is as there's no information anywhere. So within how many degrees or mm I should be aiming for as getting it perfect isnt really realistic. I was thinking under 1mm and 0.5 degrees should be ok?
 
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