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layabout
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2,433 Posts
All fitted and tight as I swapped the trigger wheel. Worked loose while there but still should have been obvious and easily sorted rather than just told there was a rattle and they wanted me to collect and fix it

I'd be tempted to look elsewhere for the rest of the tune, if they drop the hot-plate for a simple issue will they give attention to the tune?


^^ I've no idea who this was and don't care either, I just believe it's nice to have some care & attention from someone that lightens my wallet😐

Rich.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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5,120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #582 ·
100% agree with you. I won't be using them for the rest of this. They've lost out on the repeat business of the other car when that's boosted for next year too which they are aware would have been coming
 
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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #583 · (Edited)
Suffice to say im not happy. I've got the car apart and water pump now replaced. I really struggled to get the crank boss off, which should just pop off by hand. I now cannot remove the woofruff key. It's seized. What I'm sure has happened is the pulley has got loose which apparently occurred during the MOT as that's when they claim the noise started, the car was then driven 15 miles back to the tuners like this which has jammed the crank pulley against the woodruff key, damaging it and jamming the crank pulley. I will have no idea whether the crank is damaged until I can get the woodruff key out but I've no idea how I'm going to manage that.

I think the boss is reusable, there is slight damage but it looks ok. The woodruff key is fucked though. Any ideas on how to remove it welcome. And the break in the crank pulley was me trying to lever the hub boss off.

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My bottom crank pulley was a sod on the laguna blue 5.. i had to get a puller from work on it. It eventually went. I tapped the key in a bit further that released it.

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #585 ·
Have a look at the end of the key, it's damaged from where the loose crank pulley has been slamming into the bolts in the hub boss behind it and causing the hub boss to in turn slam into the key. I've tried tapping it and wiggling it but it wont budge. The last photo also shows a slightly larger gap on the crank belt pulley on the right hand side so I think it's deformed. Last time I did the timing belt both the key and crank belt pulley slipped out by hand so I know they are good. I also put a bit of antiseize on nearly everything I remove on my cars so there's no chance it's seized from corrosion. I'm annoyed, if the key way is damaged that's the end of this engine and the hassle/cost of having to buy and install a new one.

What I'm sure has happened is the crank pulley has gotten loose during or around the MOT for some reason as the MOT tester mentioned. This likely wouldnt have caused damage at idle during the MOT, but it wasnt addressed and the car driven the ~15 miles back to the unit. This has led to the pulley slamming against the bolts in the boss behind it, shearing one of the bolts as seen in the video I posted and causing the boss to slam against the woodruff key, which has damaged it and caused it and the crank belt pulley to seize. The damage particularly to the pulley boss end of the woodruff key seems to confirm this. This really should have been an easy spot and was avoidable, they even sent me a video of the pulley wobbling about. It took me all of 2 minutes to identify it from just looking at the pulley.

I've now contacted unit 3 about this as it was entirely avoidable and given the size of the bill I was charged I feel it's unacceptable. I need to get woodruff key out and confirm whether the crank key way is damaged, if it is it's likely I'll be taking the issue further.
 
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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #587 ·
Yeh it's not a bad idea. I'm going to try a puller first as heat might be a bit of a risk to other things, if that doesn't work then heat and a puller. I'm not sure I can safely cut it off without damaging the crank, it's really not something I want to resort to.
 

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Hiding from the Ayatollah or making Full Metal Jac
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Sweet Ever-Loving Christ.

I did my front main seal and replaced everything earlier this year and the seal took multiple tools to get out, but it was nothing like the absolute pile of crap you're now in :( I replaced everything including the pulley, cog, seal, main bolt, pulley bolts, etc. SNC so risky biznach.

If the heat won't make it budge... Looking at what you've got into now I suggest getting a steel/iron plate cut with the requisite straight holes (pilot) in to bolt up with the main bolt and then accurately drill two holes through the plate into the sides of the cog, then tap the holes in the holes in the cog and use some bolts & washers to pull it off the crank.

A destructive DIY puller, in other words.

You're due a new cog, key and pulley anyway.
 

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Yeh it's not a bad idea. I'm going to try a puller first as heat might be a bit of a risk to other things, if that doesn't work then heat and a puller. I'm not sure I can safely cut it off without damaging the crank, it's really not something I want to resort to.
I think if your only resort is cutting it, it'd be replacement engine time possibly. If you go with heat new seal should see you through, as long as you keep the heat away from the oil pan seal, there's not too much else down there to worry about. Hope you get it sorted quickly and tuned.
 

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Hiding from the Ayatollah or making Full Metal Jac
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Are you suggesting they are service items? :p
Given sheared bolts and wallered out holes and whatnot, YES. You can literally see the cog is cracked in the lip for the timing belt.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #592 ·
Tried to source a puller from friends but no one has one so I've ordered one. Should be here by the weekend so can at least inspect the crank by then. Whether or not I order all the replacement parts and seals before then I duno, might be a waste of money of the crank is damaged.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #593 ·
Puller arrived, doesnt fit. Had to grind down the legs a bit to clear things but should work and not crack the oil pump. Wont fit with the ARB so guna have to drop that at the weekend, which will undoubtedly result in some snapped bolts.... Really hating how long all this is taking to even look at. No/shitty lights is really making it hard to do anything in the evenings. Woodruff key fits the old hub boss well, only a tiny bit of filing was required at the very very end where it was binding, it now moves through the whole length but with good resistance, fingers crossed the crank is the same or better.
 
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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #594 · (Edited)
Good news and bad news. The pulley was a real shit due to corrosion and put up an massive fight but it's off, sadly there is a little damage to the key way, the new key wouldn't smoothly go in or out of the front 1/5th but I think the crank is still usable. I very carefully filed down the very end bit to reshape the slightly deformed section so the key would nearly fit. I've slid a new pulley over and gently tapped the new key back into place with a bit of wood. It sits pretty snug but the pulley can still be slid off by hand so I think it's all ok. The damaged section is definitely from the car still being driven and dyno'd with the old pulley being loose and smashing against the hub boss as the damage is localised to only the end section where the hub boss sits, and the same section on the old key. I suspect the fact the pulley was seized due to rust likely protected the rest of the key way as it wasn't able to rotate and work against the key which has likely saved the engine.

As the engine turns ok by hand I am hoping the bearings and oil pump are fine. This means there shouldnt be anything that's worth pursuing the tuner over. The crank pulley damage was me removing it, and trying to get the cost of a new woodruff key back isn't worth it, the rest of the cost I've had to expend has been seals which were best practice to replace, a water pump as I was told the original had failed but is probably worth doing to be safe, and a few other minor things. Hopefully I find no other surprises and can just write this off as another lesson on why to never trust anyone else with working on my car, leave a review to warn others, and just move on.

I've not put everything back yet, but I have fitted new cam oil seals as my intake side was leaking and a new front main seal as I was in there anyway.

(I know the mark the crank pulley is lined up too isn't right, it's just coincidence it's matched to that one as it moved slightly when getting the pulley off).

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #596 ·
Yeh I did as little as I could get away with. Hopefully it shouldn't cause any issues. I really didnt want to make anything worse. Aaran Large just had a catastrophic crank failure, keyway stripped, timing a full 60 degrees out, still managed a drift day with it, instead of being ~220whp it was only making 100. No idea how it still ran.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #598 ·
I had a little more of a look at the loctite fix and it's basically a metal repair putty rather than the nut/bolt friction modifier goop we're familar with. I won't loctite the crank bolt. I'll just torque it up correctly to the max of the OE spec and use a new bolt. Should be ok.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #600 ·
Maybe, as I said I'm pretty sure the rust saved the crank this time 😆 Hopefully it wont need to come off again unless the new front main seal fails
 
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