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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #481 · (Edited)
I wasn't happy with the intercooler pipe on the NB, neither the clearance to the rad or the state of the welding so I've re done it with an extra 60degree bend.

58994
 
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Discussion Starter · #482 ·
I'm basically done with everything I can/want to do on the NB supercharger install now. I'm waiting on a switch to fully wire in the gauges (dimmer function only, rest is done), and need to install a sandwich plate for the oil temp sensor which I'll do when I do an oil change at the weekend.

I've tried to start it but it's very difficult and very reluctant, I did get it turning over for a bit but it was rough as hell and the AFRs were ~9 (none of this was likely a good idea as the oil in it is 4 years old despite only having done 600 or so miles). I'm not sure what's wrong, it's definitely getting fuel as it's dumping a huge amount of fumes out the exhaust. It almost feels as though it's misfiring but I'm unsure. The basemap is for an stock mk2 rather than boosted car but it should still at least start and idle fine, especially as I had it start and idle fine on the ECU back when it was stock. I did get a copy of a map from someone with basically the same setup as me, all the table values are significantly different from the base map but that's even worse and wont start at all. I've bought new spark plugs to try again with tonight, as they are also 4 years old and likely a little less happy about sitting. Any ideas welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #483 ·
For my records, spark plugs and air filter done at 96100 miles.
 

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I'm basically done with everything I can/want to do on the NB supercharger install now. I'm waiting on a switch to fully wire in the gauges (dimmer function only, rest is done), and need to install a sandwich plate for the oil temp sensor which I'll do when I do an oil change at the weekend.

I've tried to start it but it's very difficult and very reluctant, I did get it turning over for a bit but it was rough as hell and the AFRs were ~9 (none of this was likely a good idea as the oil in it is 4 years old despite only having done 600 or so miles). I'm not sure what's wrong, it's definitely getting fuel as it's dumping a huge amount of fumes out the exhaust. It almost feels as though it's misfiring but I'm unsure. The basemap is for an stock mk2 rather than boosted car but it should still at least start and idle fine, especially as I had it start and idle fine on the ECU back when it was stock. I did get a copy of a map from someone with basically the same setup as me, all the table values are significantly different from the base map but that's even worse and wont start at all. I've bought new spark plugs to try again with tonight, as they are also 4 years old and likely a little less happy about sitting. Any ideas welcome.
In my experience base maps run very rich as it is, so whacking an m62 on will probably make it worse! Do you have an ME ecu? I could perhaps take a look at the table and try and lean it out for you? I wont touch the ignition advance settings though as that should be done by a pro, I'll just look at the AFR stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #485 · (Edited)
Cheers.

So I phoned the tuner who I am planning to have map the car yesterday and we had a very long and useful discussion about everything. The ECU is a Speedunio, the tuner spoke very highly of it and while he thinks the ME is also good as it's been build specifically for mx5s given the cost there is no justification for choosing it over the Speedunio. The long term fuel trim was the only beneficial feature over the Speedunio that was mentioned, but I'm pretty sure the paid version of TS has something that does the same and the license is only £70.

It sounds like my map is over fueling by a large amount, which would explain the locking, fumes, and huge amount of fuel being dumped. The tuner is having a look through the map for me, and I suspect it's likely a very basic setting change. Hopefully I'll have it sorted soon. I hope the locking hasn't resulted in valve damage.

That reminds me, the car has only done about 1000 miles over the last 5 years. I know letting cars sit for long periods is really bad for them despite all the "it's my pension/retirement fund" crowds opinions, and it seems it is rather likely my valve stem seals will have dried out from lack of oil and the car is likely to smoke a lot. This could make passing an MOT this year difficult, compounded by the point below.

A number of other issues came up. The first is that I have a 2" exhaust, on a SC build this is likely going to be too restrictive which will lead to excess heat which can nuke the cat or cause damage to the manifold. As a result I really need to step up to 2.5". This presents some other issues, I need a cat to pass emissions but all the systems are decat. A sports cat apparently wont last either, meaning the best thing to do is retain the stock cat, but as it's got a small pipe it's likely to be restrictive and get too hot. The solution is to buy something like the M2 system and have a swappable mid section with the stock cat made up. Unfortunately this is also going to be really expensive to get fully sorted, the exhaust alone if near £500.

Another strong recommendation was to swap to a 36-1 trigger wheel, apparently this will massively improve idle and pay for itself with the time saved in mapping.

Lastly, I have rx8 injectors, and it has been recommended to change these to something with better idle spray pattern. The thinking is that they over fuel at lower rpm (up to like 3000), which can be accounted for with timing, but would generate excess heat again risking cracking the headers. Unfortunately I'm not sure I can justify this cost. My rx8s cost me £50 and I've just had then cleaned and flow checked. The full expense for the rest of the work to get the car trailered to the tuner, running and mapped is going to be very high and I'm not sure adding an extra £200 to that (after selling the rx8s) is something I can afford. There's still a lot of other work to pay for too, it needs new wings, boot, a door painting, full subframe and bush overhaul, tyres and a set of coilover.
 

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A tuner familiar with the ecu will sort your overfuelling issues really quickly. Mine was the same day! As for the exhaust, it sounds like a custom exhaust is the way to go? At least then you can say exactly what you want and keep your stock cat! Im not too clued up on trigger wheels so I can't really help there, I'm assuming thats a trigger offset/pattern mod? I've heard good things about (genuine) rx8 injectors for forced induction so I agree with you on keeping them!
 

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layabout
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Another strong recommendation was to swap to a 36-1 trigger wheel

theres the bofi and Mazda timing wheel (p/number in thread) as options (y)

The full expense for the rest of the work to get the car trailered to the tuner, running and mapped is going to be very high
thats the bit that bites, all threads / fb posts say how easy fi conversions are but rarely mention the hidden & cumulative costs involvedo_O

Rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #488 ·
A tuner familiar with the ecu will sort your overfuelling issues really quickly. Mine was the same day! As for the exhaust, it sounds like a custom exhaust is the way to go? At least then you can say exactly what you want and keep your stock cat! Im not too clued up on trigger wheels so I can't really help there, I'm assuming thats a trigger offset/pattern mod? I've heard good things about (genuine) rx8 injectors for forced induction so I agree with you on keeping them!
Yeh, will have to be, or at least a custom catted mid-section. The M2 seems like it might be the easiest. I might ask for my current one to have a flange and bit of pipe tacked on during the removal of the cat, that way I can weld it up properly at home and sell it as a complete decat to recover some of the cost.


theres the bofi and Mazda timing wheel (p/number in thread) as options.

thats the bit that bites, all threads / fb posts say how easy fi conversions are but rarely mention the hidden & cumulative costs involvedo_O

Rich.
Yeh my tuner recommended one that's like £25. Will have a look at all 3 and pick something. TBH it's probably best I do the belt as well as that's got to be 8 years old at least. Yeh, Iv been mindful about cost the whole way through, I'm at a cost of £700 so far, so done really well. But I'm likely to add triple that for the remaining mechanical work and a set of coilovers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #489 ·
Got the gauges installed, along with a switch for dimmed/red gauge faces. I was a bit pushed for space on where I could put it so it had to go here. Everything is done properly, all loomed up, connectors to remove everything cleanly, no splicing into factory wiring, fused etc. I tried to be as neat as I could with the wiring but given how much there is still looks a bit of a rats nest behind the gauge holder. The holder itself is the mx5parts one and I'm not really that sold on it. You cant actually see the left most gauge well at all, and the gauge retainers press right up against the clip meaning there's little flex and it's going to be near impossible to remove now. The AFR retainer is also thicker, so it can only fit in the centre hole and wont fit either side. I dont think I'll get the same one for the other car, not at £20.

59105
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Banish a little rust a day people
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Discussion Starter · #490 ·

theres the bofi and Mazda timing wheel (p/number in thread) as options (y)



thats the bit that bites, all threads / fb posts say how easy fi conversions are but rarely mention the hidden & cumulative costs involvedo_O

Rich.
So the new forum doesnt seem to let me search build threads any more....... can you confirm if it's the Mazda Protege (1999-2001) trigger wheel, ZM 01-11-408?
 

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layabout
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So the new forum doesnt seem to let me search build threads any more.......
Sameo_O

did have a dig through 50 pages in my thread here & on M5's but got bored quickly so searched through my 2020 ebay purchase history🤡

So the new forum doesnt seem to let me search build threads any more.......
you can see the p/number?

I bought from ebay USA as it was easily found & I couldn't be arsed to try & argue with the local parts-department HJ staff :rolleyes:


was $35USD posted so ~ £25?

it's 36-1 but easy to remove a tooth to have 36-2 if you want such(y)

Rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #492 ·
Sameo_O

did have a dig through 50 pages in my thread here & on M5's but got bored quickly so searched through my 2020 ebay purchase history🤡



you can see the p/number?

I bought from ebay USA as it was easily found & I couldn't be arsed to try & argue with the local parts-department HJ staff :rolleyes:


was $35USD posted so ~ £25?

it's 36-1 but easy to remove a tooth to have 36-2 if you want such(y)

Rich.

I couldnt find it, but I had a goggle for trigger wheels on mx5s and found some people in the US saying about the Protege one with a part number, just wanted you to confirm it was the same one. I think it's the 36-1 I want actually.
 
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Discussion Starter · #493 · (Edited)
For my records oil and filter changed at 96k miles. Despite only having done ~800 miles 4 year old oil is still gross AF.

Oil filter plate and sensors installed as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #494 ·
Engine bay all tidied up. Few parts to order and mapping to book now. Then it's an overhaul of the suspension, bushes, subframes, wings, boot etc.

59111


The celica has also had a new rear interior installed to replace the water damaged one as the leak appears to be fixed now.

I checked on the track car as it's barely seen any use this year and it's starting to look really sorry for itself :( * sad mazda noises *
 
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Discussion Starter · #496 ·
Quietly corroding? 😲

Rich.
Mostly paint damage from various things like cats, birds, sun etc. But yeh, there's some corrosion going on with the sills (due to be done this winter), and the brakes are pretty much just ore now. Cars arent meant to sit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #497 ·
36-1 tooth trigger wheel from a Protege installed. The actual finished photo blurred but it's in. Removing the pulley was a bit of a shit so put a light film of anti seize on during reassembly and made sure everything was wire brushed down

59117


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Discussion Starter · #499 ·
red alternator?


must be fast :p

Rich.
Lol. It was refurbished years ago and was a corroded POS, cleaning it up didnt go very well as it was difficult to get in everywhere so I just thought fuck it and painted it with what I had. I regret it, it's aged really badly.
 
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