[Scotty Dugg]

So the BP4W swap, there's a fair bit of info here so I'll try keep it in some sort of order.

Just to recap, the head is a 1.8 BP4W from a mk2, it's been stripped down and skimmed 20thou, as well as getting the valves recut as they were too far gone for lapping.
IMG_20200527_202318_1 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

After machining I stripped it down and applied assembly lube as I wasn't sure when it'd be fitted:
IMG_20200605_191240 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Bought a mk2.5 "flattop" inlet manifold, as the mk1 inlet would no longer fit, comparison with a mk2 inlet:
IMG_20200430_190250 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

As the mk1 doesn't have EGR, I fitted the Jass Performance blanking plates to the back of the manifold. You can also see the set of mk2 injectors, that were sent to Injectortune for cleaning and flow testing.
IMG_20200611_220321 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

All built up and ready to go on the car:
IMG_20200611_215719 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Split the mk1 engine after running through some coolant and oil cleaners:
IMG_20200622_182414 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20200626_183057 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20200626_183207 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Used the RevLimiter guide for cleaning the pistons, with some Mopar combustion chamber cleaner:
IMG_20200716_204705 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20200721_201407 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Had to invest in a Jass crank bolt removal tool, worked really well and certainly didn't struggle to get it cracked and off:
IMG_20200624_192146 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20200623_194337 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Other than that, it was relatively plain sailing, following the Car Passion Channel timing belt video replaced the: waterpump, front crank seal, cam seals, idler/tensioner pulleys, head gasket, exhaust/inlet gasket, coolant sensors at the back of the head, all engine hoses for red stoney racing items.

I also swapped the mk1 starter motor for a mk2 item from Autolink, they were on offer, just to note these only fit with 2 of the 3 bolts and you cannot utilise the mk1 L-shaped bracket either. Where the mk1 unit cranked 3 or 4 times before starting, the mk2 unit cranks 1 or 2. A worthwhile swap.
IMG_20200715_201207 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

I also swapped in a mk2 throttle body, so it's now got the revised IACV unit, that's much tidier. Slight modification to the throttle cable bracket (moving the cable to the top slot) but you can use a mk1 throttle cable and don't need a later (shorter) cable.

On a side note, cleaning your expansion tank? use dry rice, worked a treat.

IMG_20200730_191220 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

So with new plugs, oil and filters, the car started first time with a bit of help on the throttle. sorted the idle and the timing (14 degrees) ran up to temp and replaced the coolant. Have since been on a couple test drives and have noticed the following:
- Oil pressure is now slightly higher than on the original engine
- Coolant temps sit slightly lower.
- Definitely feels faster as well as smoother on the power.
- Certainly pops louder than it used to.

Plan would be to get it to the same dyno as before to compare the pre swap to post swap, I've also got a Speeduino ECU to fit at some stage, once I get a wide-band to fit along with it.

Anyway, that's quite a lot of information for now, I'll keep testing it until I'm happy to put the under-tray back on.

Thanks for reading.

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Spent some time at the weekend carrying out a compression test just to see what's happening in the engine, 185/188/184/190
IMG_20200928_105019 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

All seems good, I think my issue is a result of using the supertech valve stem seals, I think I might need to change these to OEM seals, which I'll look into.

Also checked the plugs, now that I'm running mk2 injectors/fuel rail on a mk1 ECU:
IMG_20200927_172920 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

This will be getting swapped out for a Speeduino as soon as the cars back from rust repair, which it goes out for today, I'm hoping nothing terminal is found.

 

[MR Wallace]

Healthy compression. Far right plug does look a bit oily though, hopefully the stem seal change fixes it.

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Healthy compression. Far right plug does look a bit oily though, hopefully the stem seal change fixes it.

Yes glad to see it looked healthy, I'm guessing that's a lot to do with the valves being recut.

I've spoken with the machine shop and they'll swap the valve stem seals free of charge if I can get the head to them. Which should be much simpler since I've already done it once now.

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Keep forgetting to update this thread, but here's everything that's happened since the last post:

- Supertech valve stem seals were replaced by the machine shop, on inspection almost all of them were leaking, replaced with OEM units.

- Rust on both sills now repaired, slight paint reaction on the drivers side, but will fix in the warmer weather. Both sills also treated and waxed.

- Gearbox taken off, fitted with new seals and replaced rear main crank seal (again), fitted a BOFI clutch kit.

PSX_20210131_191754 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

- Fitted some Freaky Parts gauge rings and Laserdash gauge surround.

PSX_20210207_204354 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

- Fitted some GC Fab door bars and sold the Cobra clubmans, reverting back to standard seats. Modified and refitted trim pieces.

IMG_20210329_191916 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

- Serviced the engine/fuel filter and fitted new cam seals.

- Treated and undersealed the front wings/inner wings.

- Replaced both doors with better condition items.

That's all happened since November last year, in the process of re-insuring the car and booking it in for an MOT next week.

Hopefully next post it'll be back on the road.

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Time for another update, car passed it's MOT on the first attempt with only 2 advisories, which was a bonus. Obligatory annual MOT picture:
PSX_20210429_153901 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

I fitted some Matte Black side stripes, which in the end didn't work out, so removed them, taking with them some dodgy paint from the rust repair (great!). In the process of fixing paint, then some bronze side stripes will be going on instead:
IMG_20210509_181527 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Matte black only really works when you've pristine black paint I'm guessing...

Fitted a DaveFab brake stopper:
IMG_20210519_213131 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Took it on a road trip up to Pitlochry (got fed up of the stiff suspension):
IMG_20210529_165559 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Fitted a BOFI GV front lip (after it finally arrived):
IMG_20210607_212533 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Oh and got a 65mm pulley for the M62:
IMG_20210605_110727 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Still need to fit the ECU and still gathering parts for the SC install, so hopefully that'll all be in updates soon.

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Just a quick update to try keep this up to date.

After a year of gathering parts went on to sell the pretty complete M62 Supercharger kit I'd been compiling. Instead purchasing a pretty complete Flyin' Miata turbo kit. It'll be running a GT2554R. Looking at getting a BOFI intercooler kit unless there's a better route to go?

M62 Kit just before I sold it all:
IMG_20210808_184429 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Turbo kit:
IMG_20211118_224403 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Also working on getting some gauge pods fitted to my spare crash pad:
PSX_20211010_223948 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Fitted a quarter-light vent (well worth it):
PSX_20210829_204414 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

As well as some bronze side stripes:
PSX_20210620_183104 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Will try keep this more up to date moving forward, I'll have a few questions re: the turbo install.

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Managed some time on the car last night, got a second hand Mazda A/C fan, going to wire this in as additional cooling on the A/C button. Decided to stick to OEM over the SPAL unit in this instance. Getting the rad back in was a bit of a chew but got it eventually, longer bolts was the trick.
PSX_20211125_234610 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Fitted in the temp sensor housing into the top rad hose, it's a bit tight, I don' think it'll leak but will find out on start up.

Space with the 2 fans back in and an aftermarket rad in place:
IMG_20211125_221419 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Didn't manage a startup last night as it was too late by the time I was done, don't want to annoy the neighbours. Looks like the coolant capacity is up over the standard rad. I'd rather go this route than the coolant re-route, I think I'd go oil cooler before I went coolant re-route.

Since I couldn't start the car, decided to spend some time on the turbo kit, managed to remove all the leftover studs (2 were pretty bent), all the hot-side bolts loosened off on the turbo itself but it wouldn't clock by hand (no surprise), also tried the snap ring on the cold side, it snapped my pliers so I need to get some heavy duty ones instead.

The sensor that came with the downpipe is stuck solid, tried: heat, penetrating fluid, brute force etc. etc.
IMG_20211125_205451 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Shall persevere, this is the sort of stuff that makes a project go on forever!

 

[Yugen]

Great read! Love the build! Out of interest, how come you sold the m62 kit?

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Great read! Love the build! Out of interest, how come you sold the m62 kit?

In all honesty, on a whim, I listed it for sale to see if it'd sell and if it didn't I was going to fit it. In the end it sold the next day. Still unsure if I made the correct call, so don't let my decision sway you against going SC.

 

[guitaristanime]

The sensor that came with the downpipe is stuck solid, tried: heat, penetrating fluid, brute force etc. etc.

plus gas left to soak for a day and then a beefy spanner with a series of other spanners to extend the handle, works every time

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Small victories, that's what it's all about.

Chosen tool for this job, there was a choice of 2...which one worked? Have a guess:
IMG_20211202_212825 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

If you guessed the scaffold pole and breaker bar, pat yourself on the back. I thought I'd rounded the sensor nut, but it was actually spinning, just.

IMG_20211202_212810 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20211202_212815 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Not in the best of condition, some more good news, turns out both bosses in the downpipe are both M18x1.5, so I don't need to mess about with re-tapping (I was just being a massive Jessie worrying about stripping threads).

So, what next, I'm waiting on my Inconel studs arriving from the land of Aus., I'll get the down pipe studs (all 9 of them) ordered shortly, but I'm not going Inconel with them just yet.

I still need to find some large circlip pliers to clock the cold side of the turbo, anyone got any suggestions?

 

[MarkGolf]

Loving this! Great work.

Interesting with the Mk2 starter motor! Is that a known upgrade then?

Since my turbo conversion, my car takes ages, 4-5 crank to fire up (even after turning the key to ign twice)Just sounds like an old car that doesn't like starting with that slow motor sound. If I can fit a beefier starter, that would be great!

 

[Zed.]

Interesting with the Mk2 starter motor! Is that a known upgrade then?

yup, plug&play just about - although the middle bolt might not fit depending on gearbox / baffle plate fitted.

Rich.

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Loving this! Great work.

Interesting with the Mk2 starter motor! Is that a known upgrade then?

Since my turbo conversion, my car takes ages, 4-5 crank to fire up (even after turning the key to ign twice)Just sounds like an old car that doesn't like starting with that slow motor sound. If I can fit a beefier starter, that would be great!

Yeah like Zed says, smaller more powerful starter. You can only fit 2 of the 3 bolts but works a treat. If you've an aftermarket ecu can you improve your cold start?

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Back on everyone's favourite, the gauge pod install, a great way to waste a lot of time for what looks like not a lot.

Started the night before, by stripping out the interior, the old crash pad has never fit correctly and it peeled off far too easily, I don't think it was in any of the little snap fittings that hold it in place and the adhesive was well past it.
IMG_20211218_225017 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Next day, started by cutting the clearance in the dash for the gauges/gauges pods to sit. Thought I'd try my Dremel with a cutting disc, but after 5 discs and not making a dent the hole saw was rolled out again. Picture shows part way through the process, there's a support plate that you need to remove in order to fit gauges here, which you can get out through the hole you cut.
IMG_20211219_162302 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

End result, test fitted the crash pad, had to clearance it in stages, but the final test I struggled to get it back out, so that's a good sign. Rubbish photo for now, but I'll get a better one later. This does mean that I need to add some connections into my mock up loom to clear some of the internal dash structure, but that's easily done.
IMG_20211219_185815 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

I think I'm either going to pull the switched 12V from the cigarette lighter or the fuse box in the drivers foot-well. I've also to swap out the HVAC unit for an A/C unit, to utilise the A/C fan for additional cooling.

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Happy new year everyone, what's a good way to start the year, finish your gauge install, who knew.

So where did it start:
IMG_20211229_164840 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Hole in the dash was complete and clearanced, I'd mocked up what I thought was the final harness (it wasn't). Started by re-doing at least 2/3's of the harness to accommodate where splits would be required to clearance internal dash structure. I've pulled my 12v switched illumination circuit and GND, from the ashtray light plug, which has been deleted in the process as I never used it. 12V switched Live has come from the electric window switch as this is in the same area and handy for running my harness under the radio, this this runs to the boost/Temp gauge and also to the wideband, both with an in-line 5A fuse.

Also installed an A/C HVAC unit so I can incorporate some additional cooling (currently this doesn't work so I'll need to do some fault finding). You'll also see I had to notch some of the dash support, as my Stack gauge is a lot deeper than anticipated, it's still solid even with the notch, but not ideal.
IMG_20220102_215632 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
I've also got a signal wire coming from the aftermarket temp sensor I installed a couple weeks ago. All wires have been fed through an old A/C line grommet that sits near where the original washer bottle is located. Also through the bulkhead is the ground, white and brown wire for the wideband, lambda sensor harness also for the wideband and currently a vac line for the boost gauge. I'll run a second vac line for the ECU through the remaining redundant A/C grommet to the right of the one currently used.
IMG_20220104_142402 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Still a bit of a wiring mess, but I want to prove it all works before I tidy it up.

So without the Lambda attached, this is what we end up with:
IMG_20220102_223509 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20220103_153758 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Both Stack gauges illuminate with the side lights being turned on, also hooked up the boost gauge and it shows vacuum at idle, quick video below (just click on it) showing it all working:
VID_20220103_201426 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Lastly, connected up the ECU, outside of the car, to see if it'll connect with TunerStudio...great success, DIY-EFI uploaded the 1.8 map already so it should effectively go straight in and start up (in a perfect world).
IMG_20220102_171509_edit_472614927975800 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Also mocked up my AFM replacement, with an adapter and GM temp sensor. Had to buy a pin crimper just to get this to work, bit fiddly but YouTube to the rescue:
IMG_20220102_183557 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Intention is to glue the crash pad back in position, once the ambient temperature gets back into double figures. Then get the ECU in and try start it, I've got a local guy lined up for a road tune to tide me over until I can start fitting up the Turbo kit.

So that's where it's at, hopefully more progress soon. Currently I can't start it until I get the ECU in place (reminder to self, don't try to start it!).

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Success, managed to remove the circlip on the turbo with some 13" circlip pliers, worked a treat, plan was to mock drill and tap the housing but I think I can mock up an adjustable bracket that'll pick up on the existing holes.
IMG_20220110_211820 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Dash pads been glued in place, leave it a couple days to set, think I'll pull the passenger seat to get under the dash and finish tidying the wires up:
IMG_20220110_181526 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

 

[Scotty Dugg]

Gauges now glued in place, started to tidy up the wiring behind the dash, ran an extra vac line for the ECU.
IMG_20220116_170329 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Everything still works, just need to make sure there are no rattles.
IMG_20220116_170414 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Turbo manifold also back from the machine shop, not the prettiest but looks solid, I think the crack went further than I thought. They've also skimmed all of the surfaces.
uptest_full_6856091 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
Good timing, as the Inconel M10x1.5 studs arrived from Australia finally, ordered these late November.

Dropped off the turbo compressor when I picked up the manifold, as I need an extra M6 hole drilled for relocating the actuator, managed to use one of the pre-existing holes for the other side thankfully.

 

[Scotty Dugg]

So it's been a while since I've updated this thread, a lot has happened since January.

Cars was running and MOT'd on the Speeduino ECU, tuned by the tuner and running sweet. I continued to buy all the necessary turbo parts: had to get the compressor housing re-drilled again as I hadn't clocked it enough, Drill out the turbo flange holes to account for the M10 studs, fix a helicoil in the turbo manifold I didn't know was there. As well as: one of my HSD Dualtechs decided to leak suspension juice, front calipers both started seizing on, clutch slave cylinder was weeping.

So a lot of steps forward and quite a few steps back, the turbo kits now on the car, but it's still up in the air waiting on a few parts being fitted. The HSD's are being replaced with some MeisterR Clubrace.

So fitted are: EV14 640cc injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Flyin' Miata T25 manifold and downpipe (w/flexi), Garret Gt2554R, BOFI Intercooler kit (550x230x65mm), Forge BOV, BlackCat Oil Feed (from side of block), GFB Developments COPS kit, Supermiata Hybrid Engine Mounts, Proram Filter.

I've got 2 weeks until the tuner is free so need to get a shift on to get it back in one piece, couple pictures of how it sits just now:
IMG_20220703_180522 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20220703_172913 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
2022-07-13_09-20-59 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20220717_113545 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20220726_195816 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20220731_171246 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20220731_171243 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
IMG_20220731_164737 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Will try keep this up to date.