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So, I'm back at the table for my 3rd 5, but my first mk1.

It's a 94' Eunos Roadster 1.8 Mazdaspeed B-Spec Stage 2, won in a Facebook bonus ball raffle for £20.00! Not bad since it included a raft of spare parts.

The cars been a daily/drift car for the previous owner and is in some serious need of TLC to get it where I want it, however saying that, all major work concerned is mechanical and not rust, which is a boost.

List of modifications:

Dualtech HSD Coilovers.

GC Fab Roll Bar with Harness Bar & Spreader Plates.

Nardi Classic Silver Spoke Steering Wheel.

Recaro SPG Bucket Seat with Side Mount Seat Rails - (Removed).

Glen Fab Welded Diff (1.6) - (Removed).

Auto Connection Front Lip (not fitted yet).

34447364184_828a394138_c.jpgMX5 1-2 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

35161315081_6dd38f318f_c.jpgMX5 1-1 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

35124980402_c4b5a29abb_c.jpgMX5 1-10 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

35161332171_c24df29024_c.jpgMX5 1-4 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

34447425614_cf67408435_c.jpgMX5 1-7 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

34447440044_27ffaebe2b_c.jpgMX5 1-8 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

34903655400_936f46bfd3_c.jpgMX5 1-6 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Plan:

Fix/replace engine - blowing serious white smoke (Either Clogged piston rings or blown head gasket).

Remove all "scene" stickers - (Done).

Fix minor rust, drivers side outside sill.

Replace drivers door & drivers wing.

Replace welded diff with Type 1 Torsen (1.8) - (Done).

Replace rear deck that has been removed to fit the cage.

Refit all missing trim.

Tax and get through an MOT.

Going to be a long project, in the middle of relocating, new job and hopefully buying a house. But I've been gathering parts, so there should be a lot happening once things settle down.

I'll update with how it's sitting later, spoiler....it's in pieces.

Lets see where this goes.

Cheers,

Scott

Picture of my old NC:

19414204153_9fbfac784f_c.jpgNC1 by Scott Reid, on Flickr
 

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Well, for just £20 you got a lot of a car...and looks gorgeous btw! Happy driving mate!

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, for just £20 you got a lot of a car...and looks gorgeous btw! Happy driving mate!

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
Thanks, almost bought more tickets but ended up getting the last one, hopefully be on the road this year :thumb-up:

Eager to see how this evolves. Jealous of that MS plaque!
:whistle:

35161336751_b84e60db3c_c.jpgMX5 1-5 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

I think I'll be losing the MS engine for the foreseeable if it's the piston rings, head gasket would be a bonus.

Those pictures make the paint look half decent, here's a close up:

35161327051_b70fdc0f7d_c.jpgMX5 1-3 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Looks like rotary polishing is on my list of things to learn :blink:
 

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Might worth doing a leakdown test and a compression test, dry/wet before you scrap your motor thought...

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Might worth doing a leakdown test and a compression test, dry/wet before you scrap your motor thought...

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
Borrowing a leak down test kit and trying to get my hands on a compression tester as we speak.

As far as I can find, compression test is carried out by:

1. Check battery is charged.
2. Warm up engine (normal operating temps).
3. Shut off & remove all spark plugs.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil connector
5. Hook up compression gauge to cyl #1
6. Fully depress accelerator pedal and crank engine
7. Record max reading
8. Repeat for #2-#4.
Minimum is 135, maximum difference between cylinders is 28 psi.
9. If compression is low, pour teaspoon of oil in cylinder and recheck.
If compression improves, it's the rings/piston/cylinder wall. If compression stays low, it's the valves.
If the compression in adjacent cylinders stays low, the cylinder head gasket may be defective or the cylinder head distorted.
Reconnect ignition coil connector and reinstall plugs when done.
 

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Might worth doing a leakdown test and a compression test, dry/wet before you scrap your motor thought...

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
Borrowing a leak down test kit and trying to get my hands on a compression tester as we speak.

As far as I can find, compression test is carried out by:
1. Check battery is charged.
2. Warm up engine (normal operating temps).
3. Shut off & remove all spark plugs.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil connector
5. Hook up compression gauge to cyl #1
6. Fully depress accelerator pedal and crank engine
7. Record max reading
8. Repeat for #2-#4.
Minimum is 135, maximum difference between cylinders is 28 psi.
9. If compression is low, pour teaspoon of oil in cylinder and recheck.
If compression improves, it's the rings/piston/cylinder wall. If compression stays low, it's the valves.
If the compression in adjacent cylinders stays low, the cylinder head gasket may be defective or the cylinder head distorted.
Reconnect ignition coil connector and reinstall plugs when done.
Also before you remove sparkplugs remove the fuel pump relay a yellow one under the steering column...other than that you are absolutely correct...

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Might worth doing a leakdown test and a compression test, dry/wet before you scrap your motor thought...

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
Borrowing a leak down test kit and trying to get my hands on a compression tester as we speak.

As far as I can find, compression test is carried out by:
1. Check battery is charged.
2. Warm up engine (normal operating temps).
3. Shut off & remove all spark plugs.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil connector
5. Hook up compression gauge to cyl #1
6. Fully depress accelerator pedal and crank engine
7. Record max reading
8. Repeat for #2-#4.
Minimum is 135, maximum difference between cylinders is 28 psi.
9. If compression is low, pour teaspoon of oil in cylinder and recheck.
If compression improves, it's the rings/piston/cylinder wall. If compression stays low, it's the valves.
If the compression in adjacent cylinders stays low, the cylinder head gasket may be defective or the cylinder head distorted.
Reconnect ignition coil connector and reinstall plugs when done.
Also before you remove sparkplugs remove the fuel pump relay a yellow one under the steering column...other than that you are absolutely correct...

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the help, will post the results in here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can't keep away, look forward to seeing this one on the road...
Thanks, hopefully won't be too long, it's been a hive of activity but that's away to change when I relocate for work. Need to find spare weekends to come back and work on the car.

This looks fantastic! love the mazdaspeed badge on the back.
Cheers man, lots of bits missing or needing done still but getting there.
 

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Update: 27/06/2017

So the cars been a hive of activity when we've been able to get near it. Engine diagnosis is still undergoing: head gasket or rings, its still unclear. A few more tests should hopefully give us a definite answer.

In an effort to keep this up to date with whats been going on:

- Replaced rear deck and modified to suit the roll cage - Done

- Removed and repaired rain channel and roof - Done (Refitting roof fixed gaps between door and windows as well as stopped the glass window sagging).

- Refited tombstone and radio, replaced HVAC panel for non AC, removed evaporator section behind glove-box (still to remove the rest) - Done

- Un-seized and raiseed the rear HSD coilovers (Fronts still to do) - Done

- Replaced Rear boot-lid with non oxidised/spoiler-ed part - Done

- Replaced bodged exhaust with shiny one - Done

- Fit Nardi horn button - Done

- Refit all interior trim I've managed to source and the seats and turn the car around to work on engine - Job for tomorrow.

Lots has been happening, probably missed some bits and pieces:

34736001124_02660e38a0_c.jpgMX5 2-1 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

34736032214_3d128cc2e3_c.jpgMX5 2-2 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

34768239323_467190818d_c.jpgMX5 2-3 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

New wheels are freshly painted daisies with some fresh Vreidsteins on them, absolute bargain!

I think the exhaust is a cobalt as it's got the internal pipe, but no sticker, anyone confirm?

Anyways, it's still going, more to come, then it'll probably go quiet for a while.

Scott
 

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Gotta love threads with many pics!
Cheers man, also thanks for the help with the compression test.

Update: 01/07/2017

Hunt for what's up with the engine continues, however another step forward is:

35251761990_7d7cd248b4_c.jpgMX5 3-2 by Scott Reid, on Flickr (Green or yellow shows a fault).

Interior is now all back together, what a mission that's been, latest problem is the seats from the 1.6 don't have anywhere for the seatbelt buckles to fit, so need to find a solution for that at somepoint. These bits are missing:

35470957492_7af726c152_c.jpgMX5 3-4 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Cars also been out of the garage and on it's first 50m maiden voyage, things it's highlighted: the clutch/gearbox are shot, cage reduces rear visibility, I need to adjust the coilovers damping as it's rock solid.

Happier news, it's turned round in the garage ready for phase 2:

34797263844_0ca571e05c_c.jpgMX5 3-3 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Engine/door/wings/raise suspension....and whatever else we find along the way.

Oh and a little extra, the replacement engine has arrived and has this manifold attached (it's been cut but is certainly savable):

35251764570_7348f87624_c.jpgMX5 3-4 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

says RS(Star)R on it, looks aftermarket. Anyone able to confirm?
 

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Definitely the best 20quid ever! You're making good progress already.

Some good parts too and the new manifold certainly is aftermarket, RS*R are quite popular in Japan and make some nice exhausts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Definitely the best 20quid ever! You're making good progress already.

Some good parts too and the new manifold certainly is aftermarket, RS*R are quite popular in Japan and make some nice exhausts.
Thanks man, it certainly was, the many following 20 quids will hopefully be also.

RS*R make great exhausts and that plaque is the style they use to mark their product. Definitely aftermarket :)

(I've got an RS*R 4-1 on my Aizawa car..)
P.s. on a black car.. shadow bronze or gold. TBH.
Thanks mate, do they follow a similar route the the standard exhaust? It's been notched and trying to plan out how to bodge it back together so to speak.

I was leaning towards Shadow Bronze :yes:
 
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