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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Just in case any of you want to know how to put a complete kit together, here goes:

Notes:

1) Because of the camera angles, some of the measurements may look a couple of mm out.

2) The long shocks are for the front and the short shocks are for the rear

3) The slightly longer springs are for the rear and the slightly shorter springs are for the front.


Right, let's begin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
1) Remove the aluminium disc that is screwed halfway down the thin shaft that comes out of the middle of the shocker (it's easy to remove by hand).

2) Turn the knurled adjuster knob (near the bottom of the shock) fully clockwise and carefully push on the high density bump stop so that it sits below where the aluminium disc was screwed on:



3) Set the spring perches (the rotating black platforms that screw up and down the shaft of the shocks).

Note - there are two perches on each shock, one that the spring will sit on (used for the measurements below) and
the other one that screws up to meet the other one to "lock" it in place.


Long shock - 100mm from the top of the large black nut that holds the shock together to the bottom face of the perch:



Short shock - 143mm from the middle of the lower brass mounting tube to the bottom face of the perch:

 

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"And the TrackDog said, let there be Boost.
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hmm - interesting
 

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4) Apply a thin smear of copper grease to the top face of the lower "locking" perch and nip it up against the perch that the spring will rest on that we set to the correct distance in #3 above.

5) Slide on the spring (narrow end 1st) so that it rests on the perch that we played with above.
The front spring has an F on the narrow end of it and the rear one has an R on the narrow end of it.
Remember the "F" (front spring) is the shorter spring and the "R" (rear spring) is the longer spring.

6) Slide on the rubber dust boot (corrugated rubber tube with a small hole at one end of it).

7) Replace the aluminium dics and tighten it up by hand using some threadlock on the threads.

8) It should look like this so far:

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
9) Slide the lower bush onto the shocker shaft ensuring the word "UP" is facing up.

10) Place the rubber spring cushion on top of the spring:

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
11) Slide the metal shock mount onto the spring (this is the big black metal thing with two threaded studs sticking out of it to mount to the car) and make sure that the "UP" bush sits nicely in the hole in the top of this mount.

12) Twist the shock mount round so that the two threaded studs are running the same direction when viewed from above as the brass tube at the other end of the shocker.

13) Slide the upper mounting bush onto the top of the shaft, then the metal cup washer and then the big 17mm flanged nut:

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
14) Using a 17mm spanner and a 5mm allen key, tighten the top nut until 17mm of thread is exposed (ensuring that the "UP" bush remains central and aligned in the hole in the shock mount:

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
15) Screw on and tighten up the Nylock nut until is rests against the other nut:

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
16) All done. Just 3 more to do now:

 

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why set the spring perch to those particular heights?
'Cause that's what Phil said to do. The ride height can be adjusted once on the car.

Avoneer - have you trimmed the bumpstop? Mine is about 25mm longer than yours and tapers towards the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
why set the spring perch to those particular heights?
'Cause that's what Phil said to do. The ride height can be adjusted once on the car.

Avoneer - have you trimmed the bumpstop? Mine is about 25mm longer than yours and tapers towards the bottom.
[/quote]

Nope - Phil ran out of Superpro ones so they are just stock ones that Phil sent.

Pat...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry and no to all the Gaz questions.

Not much help, but I had Gaz on my Cateringvan and found them more hassle than the Protechs that were on my 2nd Cateringvan (the P5 ones are Protechs).

Pat...
 

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I have the P5 coilovers fitted and I've just had the car corner-weighted and aligned using a variation on the Icehawk alignment settings:

Front
Caster 5 degrees
Camber -1.5 degrees
Toe 0.3mm in per side

Rear
Camber -2.0 degrees
Toe 0.5mm in per side

The car still has the FM ARBs on and whilst I believe these may be a bit stiff for the P5 setup, the car handles sweetly on the road. Ride is firm but comfortable.

This weekend sees the cars first outing in anger with a Sprint at Kames so I will have a much better feel for the on-limit handling after that.
 

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Diesel Pwr FTW!!!111
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cant wait to see what they are like, still waiting for the next batch to arrive.
 
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