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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
and just for shitz&giggles....


Ford's Escort Cosworth 'group A' (& WRC??) rallycars had a few (4) Laminova coolers, page from Ford Motorsport's homologation book...

Rich.
馃憤 Veyron has an oil cooler 馃榿 (in fact it has both..).
 

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On second thoughts, can't seem to find an answer as to why the laminova setup doesn't just transfer all the heat from your oil to your water system? Too many questions now.

Think I'm just going to go for the two sandwich plates. One for the senders, and another for the cooler.
But, I really need to know if anyone has actually done this successfully on an NB using the mocal sensor and thermo sandwich plates? Is there enough room, and do they bolt together correctly? I've read numerous threads and that question never seems to get answered, people always run into problems then the threads go dead.
Thanks again 馃ぃ
I have a mk2.5 and I use a mocal plate to feed a 13 row oil cooler, stacked with that I have a sandwich plate which I take oil temp off and turbo oil feed. The sandwich plate for the turbo oil feed and oil temp sender was just a cheapy off ebay. It's all mostly worked fine, though there has recently been a slight oil leak which 'might' be coming from the oil temp sender port. So if doing it again I'd buy a better quality sandwich plate, the mocal plate for the oil cooler is of course good quality.

However I was in there today fixing the oil gauge issue I have (hopefully had, seems to be behaving itself, for now) and I remembered how god awful the access into there is. If I were doing it all again I'd have a remote oil filter/cooler feed/gauge feed setup somewhere else.

I was also considering moving the oil temp sender to the oil sump plug with an adapter sized for the plug hole, but remembered that it's pretty exposed down there to road strikes particularly if the car is lowered. A lot, though not all of the the miataturbo folk put their temp sender in that location (maybe US roads are better than the shite we have here). I remember reading a lot of discussion on the merits of different locations for the accuracy of temp readings, but no clear consensus. Though in reality you really just need to see the bigger changes rather than be accurate to a degree or two as someone else said.

FM and BEGI always put the oil feed and temp sensor at the oil pressure sender location on the side of the block, so most people have just followed that. I read of some folk putting their oil feed at the back of the block in the head as you were discussing and saying they had no problems on multiple cars with others saying that the oil feed from there might not be sufficient. Again no real consensus that I could see or proof one way or the other. Though Mazda do take the feed for the VVT from the block rather than the head for example.

If you do go for the more 'standard' location for oil feed etc I would recommend removing the inlet manifold support bracket, it gives you a bit more room to play with. Though frankly I'd just move it all somewhere else, even oil filter changes are a bit of an arse, never mind fiddling with any sensors or the oil feed lines for the cooler.

One day I'll probably move it all myself, but funds are tight and it works currently, so.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I have a mk2.5 and I use a mocal plate to feed a 13 row oil cooler, stacked with that I have a sandwich plate which I take oil temp off and turbo oil feed. The sandwich plate for the turbo oil feed and oil temp sender was just a cheapy off ebay. It's all mostly worked fine, though there has recently been a slight oil leak which 'might' be coming from the oil temp sender port. So if doing it again I'd buy a better quality sandwich plate, the mocal plate for the oil cooler is of course good quality.

However I was in there today fixing the oil gauge issue I have (hopefully had, seems to be behaving itself, for now) and I remembered how god awful the access into there is. If I were doing it all again I'd have a remote oil filter/cooler feed/gauge feed setup somewhere else.

I was also considering moving the oil temp sender to the oil sump plug with an adapter sized for the plug hole, but remembered that it's pretty exposed down there to road strikes particularly if the car is lowered. A lot, though not all of the the miataturbo folk put their temp sender in that location (maybe US roads are better than the shite we have here). I remember reading a lot of discussion on the merits of different locations for the accuracy of temp readings, but no clear consensus. Though in reality you really just need to see the bigger changes rather than be accurate to a degree or two as someone else said.

FM and BEGI always put the oil feed and temp sensor at the oil pressure sender location on the side of the block, so most people have just followed that. I read of some folk putting their oil feed at the back of the block in the head as you were discussing and saying they had no problems on multiple cars with others saying that the oil feed from there might not be sufficient. Again no real consensus that I could see or proof one way or the other. Though Mazda do take the feed for the VVT from the block rather than the head for example.

If you do go for the more 'standard' location for oil feed etc I would recommend removing the inlet manifold support bracket, it gives you a bit more room to play with. Though frankly I'd just move it all somewhere else, even oil filter changes are a bit of an arse, never mind fiddling with any sensors or the oil feed lines for the cooler.

One day I'll probably move it all myself, but funds are tight and it works currently, so.......
OK thanks for your reply... I was considering having a remote oil filter setup, but then I would need to find a way of running a inline thermostat etc, I found someone who had done that, but ended up being quite a long winded and expensive way of doing things with all the different fittings etc, so I thought I'd just go for the more awkward to fit initially setup of stacking the sandwich plates... I've seen others use a cheapish sandwich plate for the sensors stacked onto a mocal thermo plate too, but came a cross people having difficulty stacking two mocal sandwhich plates together,,, something to do with the center bolt thing. I've a asked the chap that sells the kits on ebay if he knows, and may contact merlin Motorsport or the like to see if they know as well, if they sell them.. 馃憤
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I have a mk2.5 and I use a mocal plate to feed a 13 row oil cooler, stacked with that I have a sandwich plate which I take oil temp off and turbo oil feed. The sandwich plate for the turbo oil feed and oil temp sender was just a cheapy off ebay. It's all mostly worked fine, though there has recently been a slight oil leak which 'might' be coming from the oil temp sender port. So if doing it again I'd buy a better quality sandwich plate, the mocal plate for the oil cooler is of course good quality.

However I was in there today fixing the oil gauge issue I have (hopefully had, seems to be behaving itself, for now) and I remembered how god awful the access into there is. If I were doing it all again I'd have a remote oil filter/cooler feed/gauge feed setup somewhere else.

I was also considering moving the oil temp sender to the oil sump plug with an adapter sized for the plug hole, but remembered that it's pretty exposed down there to road strikes particularly if the car is lowered. A lot, though not all of the the miataturbo folk put their temp sender in that location (maybe US roads are better than the shite we have here). I remember reading a lot of discussion on the merits of different locations for the accuracy of temp readings, but no clear consensus. Though in reality you really just need to see the bigger changes rather than be accurate to a degree or two as someone else said.

FM and BEGI always put the oil feed and temp sensor at the oil pressure sender location on the side of the block, so most people have just followed that. I read of some folk putting their oil feed at the back of the block in the head as you were discussing and saying they had no problems on multiple cars with others saying that the oil feed from there might not be sufficient. Again no real consensus that I could see or proof one way or the other. Though Mazda do take the feed for the VVT from the block rather than the head for example.

If you do go for the more 'standard' location for oil feed etc I would recommend removing the inlet manifold support bracket, it gives you a bit more room to play with. Though frankly I'd just move it all somewhere else, even oil filter changes are a bit of an arse, never mind fiddling with any sensors or the oil feed lines for the cooler.

One day I'll probably move it all myself, but funds are tight and it works currently, so.......
Also, what do your temps look like just driving around normally? Are they low? Take ages to warm up? And also in winter? Thanks 馃憤
 

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OK thanks for your reply... I was considering having a remote oil filter setup, but then I would need to find a way of running a inline thermostat etc, I found someone who had done that, but ended up being quite a long winded and expensive way of doing things with all the different fittings etc, so I thought I'd just go for the more awkward to fit initially setup of stacking the sandwich plates... I've seen others use a cheapish sandwich plate for the sensors stacked onto a mocal thermo plate too, but came a cross people having difficulty stacking two mocal sandwhich plates together,,, something to do with the center bolt thing. I've a asked the chap that sells the kits on ebay if he knows, and may contact merlin Motorsport or the like to see if they know as well, if they sell them.. 馃憤
yeah I think I thought about stacking two mocal plates and came to the same conclusion, but better to check as I put all my stuff in many years ago so my memory is a bit hazy on that one! haha.

I think I also worked out to do what I wanted with a remote setup would be complex too, so went for the cheaper, easier option, but in hindsight I think I'd take the extra cost and harder initial setup for the ease of future maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
yeah I think I thought about stacking two mocal plates and came to the same conclusion, but better to check as I put all my stuff in many years ago so my memory is a bit hazy on that one! haha.

I think I also worked out to do what I wanted with a remote setup would be complex too, so went for the cheaper, easier option, but in hindsight I think I'd take the extra cost and harder initial setup for the ease of future maintenance.
馃憤馃憤馃憤
what do your temps look like just driving around normally? Are they low? Take ages to warm up? And also in winter? Thanks 馃憤
 

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Also, what do your temps look like just driving around normally? Are they low? Take ages to warm up? And also in winter? Thanks 馃憤
I've had issues since the car went back on the road with the oil temp gauge as in it hasn't worked (I may have just fixed it today though). As the car was off the road for five years I don't remember numbers, but I never noticed anything untoward either when warming up, as in speed to do so (thermostat should help with that) or issues during winter. On track it never got above 120 which was what I was really concerned with.

Assuming I really have fixed the oil temp gauge I can keep an eye on it over the next few days and give you some figures perhaps. But it doesn't get a lot of driving right now so may take a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I've had issues since the car went back on the road with the oil temp gauge as in it hasn't worked (I may have just fixed it today though). As the car was off the road for five years I don't remember numbers, but I never noticed anything untoward either when warming up, as in speed to do so (thermostat should help with that) or issues during winter. On track it never got above 120 which was what I was really concerned with.

Assuming I really have fixed the oil temp gauge I can keep an eye on it over the next few days and give you some figures perhaps. But it doesn't get a lot of driving right now so may take a while.
OK, thank you 馃憤馃憤馃憤. That would be great 馃憤馃憤. Be interesting to know the figures so I can compare them to mine when it's finished, thanks 馃榿
 

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OK, thank you 馃憤馃憤馃憤. That would be great 馃憤馃憤. Be interesting to know the figures so I can compare them to mine when it's finished, thanks 馃榿
no worries. It'll give me another excuse to drive it a bit more!
 

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OK, thank you 馃憤馃憤馃憤. That would be great 馃憤馃憤. Be interesting to know the figures so I can compare them to mine when it's finished, thanks 馃榿
ok, so a brief drive today showed about 70C after about 5 minutes, then with a few miles on motorway and more on country A/B roads it sat at around 90C consistently just from checking the oil temp gauge. At some point I need to do some logging to check some stuff out so will have some more finite figures then if they are of interest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
ok, so a brief drive today showed about 70C after about 5 minutes, then with a few miles on motorway and more on country A/B roads it sat at around 90C consistently just from checking the oil temp gauge. At some point I need to do some logging to check some stuff out so will have some more finite figures then if they are of interest.
Hi, yes please do post them up, would be interesting to know. It also turns out that mocal do actually do a sandwich plate with a thermostat and a port for a sensor. It's a new ish product so probably why most don't know about them. Typically everywhere is out of stock of the 90 deg thermostat ones, but should be arriving next week. If so, I was going to put it on without the oil cooler and just run a pipe from one port of the sandwich plate to the other. - presumably this should be fine? - as in theory it should be no different to circulating the oil into and out of a cooler?... I also now have a Racetech sender and guage so will post up the temps I'm getting before cooler and after.. (once the sandwich plate arrives) 馃憤
 

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Hi, yes please do post them up, would be interesting to know. It also turns out that mocal do actually do a sandwich plate with a thermostat and a port for a sensor. It's a new ish product so probably why most don't know about them. Typically everywhere is out of stock of the 90 deg thermostat ones, but should be arriving next week. If so, I was going to put it on without the oil cooler and just run a pipe from one port of the sandwich plate to the other. - presumably this should be fine? - as in theory it should be no different to circulating the oil into and out of a cooler?... I also now have a Racetech sender and guage so will post up the temps I'm getting before cooler and after.. (once the sandwich plate arrives) 馃憤
OK, I'll let you know those figures once I get them.

What you're thinking of doing sounds fine as long as you can get a good seal.

You could put the oil cooler on at the same time as the plate and then the turbo later as the thermostat will take care of things until you see potential higher temps with the turbo. Might save a bit of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
OK, I'll let you know those figures once I get them.

What you're thinking of doing sounds fine as long as you can get a good seal.

You could put the oil cooler on at the same time as the plate and then the turbo later as the thermostat will take care of things until you see potential higher temps with the turbo. Might save a bit of time.
The only reason I wanted to put the sandwich plate on without the cooler is so I can plug in my temp sender and get the temps of the car being stock. After a few days I'll log those temps. Then I'll install the cooler, and see if the temps drop, or takes a longer time to warm up, when the thermostat is closed. I'm doing this as apparently some oil circulates through the cooler even when the thermostat is closed. And I didn't went the oil to be too cold when the stat is closed if you get what I mean..
 

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The only reason I wanted to put the sandwich plate on without the cooler is so I can plug in my temp sender and get the temps of the car being stock. After a few days I'll log those temps. Then I'll install the cooler, and see if the temps drop, or takes a longer time to warm up, when the thermostat is closed. I'm doing this as apparently some oil circulates through the cooler even when the thermostat is closed. And I didn't went the oil to be too cold when the stat is closed if you get what I mean..
I see, a bit of research. It will be interesting to hear what you find.
 

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There are thermostatic sandwhich plates available with ports for pressure and temps.
In this pic you can i have used the standard oil pressure port though.
I have oil temp oil pressure and oil press sw to a big orange light.
I used the mocal 82deg thermostat and a 19row mocal oil cooler. I bought the kit from bofi. The inlet manifold brace will need to be modded for clearance.


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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
There are thermostatic sandwhich plates available with ports for pressure and temps.
In this pic you can i have used the standard oil pressure port though.
I have oil temp oil pressure and oil press sw to a big orange light.
I used the mocal 82deg thermostat and a 19row mocal oil cooler. I bought the kit from bofi. The inlet manifold brace will need to be modded for clearance.


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Thanks, yes was after a mocal one as others have mentioned other companies sandwich plates leaking. But mocal do one now anyway, and has arrived yeaterday along with oil cooler etc. Looks like it should just fit. Although I may cut away some of the mani bracket like you say.. What make oil pressure sender is that in the picture? Can you explain what you mean when you say about the oil pressure guage and switch? You mean you have a aftermarket pressure guage (as shown in the pic), and your also using the stock oil pressure switch? Wired to a bulb? No guage for the aftermarket oil pressure sender?
 

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I removed std gauge. Put a 4 way adaptor in.
Put a temp sensor in. Oil gressure gauge. And a longacre 30 psi pressure switch. Below 30 psi oil light on.
Pretty cheap really. R spec gauges and the long acre pressure switch came to about 拢70.
I like the idea of a light as on track alot easier to see than a gauge. 30 psi means if it blips on in the corners im getting oil starvation. And or got a chance to shut the motor down.

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I removed std gauge. Put a 4 way adaptor in.
Put a temp sensor in. Oil gressure gauge. And a longacre 30 psi pressure switch. Below 30 psi oil light on.
Pretty cheap really. R spec gauges and the long acre pressure switch came to about 拢70.
I like the idea of a light as on track alot easier to see than a gauge. 30 psi means if it blips on in the corners im getting oil starvation. And or got a chance to shut the motor down.

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Nice 馃憤馃憤
I like that idea 馃. Thinking about it myself now 馃榿馃榿馃榿
 
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