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Banish a little rust a day people
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That's pretty poor for the boots.

I'm on clubrace as well. Seem good, no complaints. Did think I could make use of slightly stiffer it uprated ARBs now though.

Think you might be at a point where powers the only answer
 

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layabout
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2,725 Posts
need zed to do the sums for me
Lazeeeeee shit :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:



so........

almost fuckall difference BUT anti-stretch so more rim moving-around inside the tyre carcass🥴


as to lowering the car, you'll loose suspension travel & gain bumpsteer :unsure:






ps. I've still got (& use:censored:) a pair of RRS raceboots that I bought in 1997....



Rich.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Just seen you have the whiteline ARBs, how do you find them? Do they play well with the Meisters? How much is the ARB brace needed/ how affective is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,325 ·
Front and rear whiteline.
Racing beat front brace with the blocks inside the arb chassis mounts.
Ive got the track spring rates same as you but i run 20 fr 20rr so full stiffness not needed.
I fitted the brace and blocks as those piddly brackets just dont look upto the job of holding the front bar.
Happy so far, i stiffened up and had some rear breakaway happy its dialed in now. Yet to have a proper wet day, my thinking being id just disconnect the arb links front n rear and not mess with settings.
Brace is fiddly to fit. Interference with std rad fan cowl and blades on a fat ally rad, i trimmed abit and ok.

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Kk, good to know. My rad is a massive 60mm core which might be an issue then.

Interesting on the settings you run. Why so soft? I run 22fr 20r (from soft) just on the road.

I wonder whether it'd be best to wait til I have more power as it might make the rear more prone to break away anyway then decide.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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It must be. I run that on the road, on track I'm full stiff. Will have to look into one. How's the boot mounting, not bending it or anything?
 

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Just re-read all this, great work. You’ve made me disappointed in myself though, in lock down you cracked on and got so much done. I did the opposite. I managed my first top down drive into work today in the last 2 years! It was brilliant.
Your power figures of 236 did I read? Is that bhp or at the wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,331 ·
Cheers mate. dyno was power at wheels. How accurate i dont know. Its at 0.8bar on a gt2554r. I dont think its gonna blow up as lots of trackdays on it now.

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Discussion Starter · #1,332 ·
Helpful chap at JJC rally sorted the boots. Sparco issued a refund so i got some more coming but upgraded to Sparco Tops for no additional cost.
These are reinforced in the heel n toe area.
Asked if i need to return the slaloms...not got an answer yet. Size 8s going cheap cheap lol. Aint no good for heel n toe though the sticky out bit hooks on throttle pedal.. not nice.
Glue stitch em up.


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Discussion Starter · #1,335 ·
Size 8 slalom boots used 3 times stictching coming away...interferes with heel n toe on my car as i have a larger throttle pedal..
Take £50 for em? Otherwise pretty much brandnew. No smells or stains. Super comfy.
The hole does not go all the way through. Seems like a stitched on piece. Glue down ?


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Banish a little rust a day people
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Back from hols, more importantly, loaded up and off to Thruxton tomoz.

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Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,339 ·
Lol, had my first issue today..
Misdiagnosed as ignition break up.
Sort of soft cutting on acceleration.
Then i noticed boost gauge alarming..dial goes red...
Boosting to 1bar. Peak recall 1.1 bar. it was flying tbh.
So i checked wastegate silcone lines and no holes or leaks.
Then inlet manifold to me221...again all good.
I flicked my switch and ran it on wastegate pressure 0.6bar for remainder of day no issue.
Mac boost solenoid? Seems to me to be culprit..its not creep makes 1bar instantly...
...or wastgate inself...?



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