[Nix.]

Another little update, so despite saying I wasn't gonna turn the boost up until I changed the clutch, I instead turned the boost up and destroyed the clutch. It got the point where it was slipping in every gear as soon as boost came on so I had to change it earlier than planned. So I did a little shopping around and research and settled on an uprated dual friction clutch and single mass flywheel from RST performance. Now there was 2 choices when ordering the clutch, a 10 spline version for cars/gearboxes pre 2003 and a 22 spline version for post 2003. My engine is a 1999 engine so I assumed that the matching gearbox was the same, it wasn't. Evidently either the guy that sold me the engine sent me a different gearbox or it was changed in the past before the original car was broken for parts.

I ended up deciding to change gearbox as if I ever break one it will be much easier to find a replacement 10 spline gearbox than it will to find a 22 spline one. Changing the clutch and gearbox was pretty straight forward and it probably only took about 4 hours even doing it on my own. So the new clutch is a bit aggressive but its not dreadful although I'm glad its not my daily anymore. One issue I think I've found is that the original BMW clutch is one of the weird ones that self adjust to keep the engagement position the same throughout its life. This means that there is no adjustment on the clutch pedal/master, so now that I have a regular clutch with a BMW clutch master I have no adjustment in the pedal and its not great. I also noticed that my ghetto clutch pedal setup has bent slightly so It's time to replace it.

I could go down the route of installing a full pedal box but I know it's a ball ache to fit one in an MX5 and I just sold my spare pedal box a few months ago so I'm loathed to spend another £500 on a pedal box, I also don't really want to lose power assisted brakes. So Instead I decided to order a reverse swing top mount single OBP pedal (single pedal single cylinder). I had a look and took some measurements and I should be able to fit the clutch master under the dash if its forward facing, I already know that I'll need to modify the pedal to get around the steering column but other than that it should hopefully wok out nicely. My only concern at the moment is whether the remote reservoir sits high enough above the master, If not I can always use a super compact master with built in reservoir (yes it will be a nightmare to bleed but hey ho).

Stay tuned for more

 

[Nix.]

Another random annoyance that I've had with this swap is the temp gauge on the dash, now I know they're not exactly accurate but its nice to have some indication of the temperature of the engine; However since doing the swap mine hasn't worked so I've driving round with my laptop plugged in at all times to ensure it doesn't overheat. This is because on an E46 the sensor for the cluster sits in the radiator outlet hose and I've since deleted this sensor as it was a massive pain (I never wired it in even before I deleted it). I was gonna build a circuit using a digital potentiometer to duplicate the sensor signal so that I could output the signal to both the ecu and the gauge and I did build the circuit but in testing It just wasn't accurate or reliable so I needed another solution. The obvious thing would be to cut one of the radiator hoses and add one of the joiners that allow a sensor to be screwed in but I'm not a fan of them. So Instead I did some searching trying to find a dual output coolant sensor that would fit and I came up with a few options:

First: the MX5 1.8 mk2 sensor but the problem was trying to get the connector pigtail.
Second: the BMW E38 sensor but I couldn't get a connector pigtail or the details of the temperature curves
Third: the Subaru Impreza sensor, this is very similar if not the same as the MX5 sensor the difference being that I can order a connector pigtail for it.

So I've ordered a Subaru Impreza coolant sensor to replace the BMW sensor in the side of the head. The output of this sensor is the same as the BMW one and the same as the MX5 one so it should work pretty flawlessly.

 

[BEN99W]

You may find you need to do more than change the temperature sensor. The mk2 temp gauges have been made so that they do no more than appear to come up to temperature. There are known modifications that can be made to the gauge so that it has a more useful operational range. I have modified mine and initially thought that it made no difference until a particularly long session trying to get it to pass MOT emissions saw the gauge start climbing. It involves pulling the gauge and adding a few resistors, but I can't find the exact details any more Im afraid.

This thread is similar however Temperature Gauge Linearisation

Ben

 

[guitaristanime]

Total 5's | Sooo close to getting this thing done now | Facebook

I thought you had sold this when I saw this Facebook post, turns out someone else had a similar idea.