[Oberon305]

Like others have said, it really is a problem & not nice, it actually slowed me down considerably on bumpy roads, almost to the point I was holding traffic up. We were only bimbling at around 40 - 50, once we hit the bumpy back road stuff I had to back right off......

Dont get me wrong, there is no feeling of the rears leaving the ground & skipping, just they drop to the bump stops way too easy, or so it feels.

Shane this is exactly how mine felt on the bumpy back road. I think I'm running a tiny bit lower than yours, but I guess it shouldn't make a difference.

When I get a chance I'll play with the preload.

Jerrick......I still love them! Where are the stickers??!?!

Rgds

Tim

 

[MeisterR]

Let me know how it goes...

Stickers are arriving mid April... so not long now.

 

[foggy]

any updates on the bump stop problems from the rear?

 

[Oberon305]

any updates on the bump stop problems from the rear?

Sorry, not as yet. Spent all afternoon changing my rear bumper and trying (and failing) to get the bolts holding my ugly baby teeth off. Had the rear jacked up and really should have had a play with the meisters.

Soon, promise!

 

[foggy]

Thanks Oberon,only thing stopping me ordering at the moment! Im on standard suspension and must say the handling is lovely but the arch gap is uggggly. Dont want to spend nigh on ?600 and lose a couple of inches of arch gap but end up with a worse handling car in every day driving.

 

[Oberon305]

Thanks Oberon,only thing stopping me ordering at the moment! Im on standard suspension and must say the handling is lovely but the arch gap is uggggly. Dont want to spend nigh on ?600 and lose a couple of inches of arch gap but end up with a worse handling car in every day driving.

Will try this weekend foggy.....family commitments depending!

Dont get me wrong mate, she feels ace on good roads, handling is superb for 90% of the time.

 

[Oberon305]

Went out in it again today and I've decided to leave alone. The ride is bloody brilliant on all but the bumpiest of roads, so I'm just going to avoid them!

The improvement over standard setup is worth the minor inconvenience of a bouncy ride on (a very few) poorly maintained back roads.

If I do decide to play about with preload in the future I'll let you know.

Foggy, don't let my comments put you off these coilys mate, they're brilliant.

 

[motosparkz]

Hay oop,

Well after more than 3 weeks with nasty lurgies, I decided to brave the manflu & have a dabble.

I have upped the preload on the rear by 10mm, so basic length of the spring is now 150mm, instead of the 160mm. I then dropped the ride height to be back to what it was. It drives a lot better, still a tad bouncy, but I have got the damping wound down to 4 notches. I only managed to get 20 miles on it yesterday, but there is an improvement. I need to get a few more miles, but then I am going to try to go another 5mm & see how that works.

I'll let you know if it works better still or has gone too far, but 10mm has improved things a reasonable amount(well worth the adjustment imho)

Cheers, Shane

 

[Mr.Wolf]

On my experience the MeisterR coilovers need a few miles of driving to work well (near 500-750 miles)..Now I'm driving at the factory height/preload preset and 11 at the fw and 10 at the rw: they are smoother and more precise than a few miles ago.
Maybe when I'll set the correct coilovers height with my weight on the driver seat I'll modify the preload but now I don't feel really that need!

 

[Toby]

I Noticed today that yopu can buy the springs seperately, in 4,5,6,7,8 KG/MM.

The std package has 7KG Front and 6KG Rear

Have any of you say finding them too harsh ever swapped the 6 R down to a 5?

Would be keen to hear everyones thought's Inc Jerricks (Have emailed you

)

 

[motosparkz]

Hi

I would not say they are too harsh & setting a bit more preload has helped. With mine they were bouncing on the bumpstops, (or so it felt), down b roads etc to the point it was slowing me down. It's not a case of they are too hard, more too soft on the rear if anything. It almost felt like it could do with a progressive spring, but adding the preload has changed it, it's just I need to fiddle more

Cheers, Shane

 

[MeisterR]

Hay oop,

Well after more than 3 weeks with nasty lurgies, I decided to brave the manflu & have a dabble.

I have upped the preload on the rear by 10mm, so basic length of the spring is now 150mm, instead of the 160mm. I then dropped the ride height to be back to what it was. It drives a lot better, still a tad bouncy, but I have got the damping wound down to 4 notches. I only managed to get 20 miles on it yesterday, but there is an improvement. I need to get a few more miles, but then I am going to try to go another 5mm & see how that works.

I'll let you know if it works better still or has gone too far, but 10mm has improved things a reasonable amount(well worth the adjustment imho)

Cheers, Shane

Thanks Shane, got any picture of how the car currently sit?
Sounds like it is working well and a step to the right direction.

Have you add a little bit of pre-load in the front?
Normally I find it firms up the front a little bit and give a little bit better steering response.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[gussy]

Mine is just a tad too low on the front due to me running 8J and +25mm offset. I would like to raise it by 10mm but someone mentioned to me that winding the coilover body by an extra 10mm may not equate to 10mm in ride height?

Can anyone confirm this?

Cheers

 

[General_lee]

Interesting question..Theoretically, since the schock is not mounted vertically at the end/edge of the wishbones, if you shorten or lengthen by 10mm, the change measured from wheel center to fender (for example) will not be exactly the same.

It would be a bit more because of the shock being mounted more towards the rotation centre of the wishbone (compared to the wheel), and a bit less because of the shock not being mounted 100% vertically. Dont know which of these two affects the difference more, but I suppose that you shouldn't worry too much. It is almost the same length.

 

[Mad Ax]

Is the Mk2 heavier at the back than the Mk1? This would explain why the Mk2 is needing more preload or maybe even a stiffer spring.

Does anyone have a total weight and f/r distribution comparison between Mk1 and Mk2?

I'm hoping mine will arrive soon and I'll probably start with 10mm preload on the rear, as there are speedbumps on the road where I live and my route to work takes me through some back roads - I don't like the idea of hitting the bumpstops, any sudden shock transmitted through the chassis will be taken up by other parts of the car as well as my spine; my body repairs itself but my car doesn't!

 

[MeisterR]

I think we are alright in terms of getting the suspension to work on the MK1 or the MK2.
We may need slightly different adjustments, but that is why we provide the adjustability on the Zeta-S coilovers.

Like Oberon305 said:

Dont get me wrong mate, she feels ace on good roads, handling is superb for 90% of the time.

If we can make some adjustments to make it 95% of the time... then it is worth exploring.

But the Zeta-S isn't going to be bone shattering uncomfortable, because if so we would know by now.
Therefore, you shouldn't need to wait for your body to regenerate itself for you to continue with normal life.

 

[MisterG]

Is the Mk2 heavier at the back than the Mk1? This would explain why the Mk2 is needing more preload or maybe even a stiffer spring.

Does anyone have a total weight and f/r distribution comparison between Mk1 and Mk2?

I'm hoping mine will arrive soon and I'll probably start with 10mm preload on the rear, as there are speedbumps on the road where I live and my route to work takes me through some back roads - I don't like the idea of hitting the bumpstops, any sudden shock transmitted through the chassis will be taken up by other parts of the car as well as my spine; my body repairs itself but my car doesn't!

+1 - i keep meaning to get round to winding up the pre-load on my mk2 - having a stiffer chassis also makes the bumpstop a more painful thing to hit lol

 

[GmoLargey]

Hay oop,

Well after more than 3 weeks with nasty lurgies, I decided to brave the manflu & have a dabble.

I have upped the preload on the rear by 10mm, so basic length of the spring is now 150mm, instead of the 160mm. I then dropped the ride height to be back to what it was. It drives a lot better, still a tad bouncy, but I have got the damping wound down to 4 notches. I only managed to get 20 miles on it yesterday, but there is an improvement. I need to get a few more miles, but then I am going to try to go another 5mm & see how that works.

I'll let you know if it works better still or has gone too far, but 10mm has improved things a reasonable amount(well worth the adjustment imho)

Cheers, Shane

Is this 4 clicks up from fully soft? That is no way enough for anything other than utterly smooth motorway driving.

I would recommend opening the boot, getting access to your topmounts, winding the clicks all the way back, sit on your boot edge and bounce on it.

Wind the clicks up to say, your 4, try it and see how little difference it has made to the amount your car 'bogs down'

Try my 'bounce' test on full soft and fully hard, find something around the 'teens and try it again.
The ride will be 'harsher' but that has to be expected on the plus side you wont fall down onto the bumpstops.

I've got mine set around and above 10 always, wind it up for trackdays to about(F/R) 22/20 and normal roads 15/12 or motorway journeys, 10/9.

 

[jdl1603]

Thought I'd add my current settings:

Front height, 310mm + 10 clicks from soft
Rear height, 315mm + 8 click from soft

Car feels nice on " normal " roads as long as I avoid the horrible pot holes.

At first I had the car pretty low at "around" 270-280mm ( cant remember exact height ) looked good but couldnt get over speed humps!

I just need alignment now, it made a big difference last time. Sorry no pics as its filthy!

 

[JellyB]

Is the Mk2 heavier at the back than the Mk1? This would explain why the Mk2 is needing more preload or maybe even a stiffer spring.

Does anyone have a total weight and f/r distribution comparison between Mk1 and Mk2?

I'm hoping mine will arrive soon and I'll probably start with 10mm preload on the rear, as there are speedbumps on the road where I live and my route to work takes me through some back roads - I don't like the idea of hitting the bumpstops, any sudden shock transmitted through the chassis will be taken up by other parts of the car as well as my spine; my body repairs itself but my car doesn't!

+1 - i keep meaning to get round to winding up the pre-load on my mk2 - having a stiffer chassis also makes the bumpstop a more painful thing to hit lol
[/quote]

Guys - I really don't get this thing about preload !!

From my education, provided the preload is less than the corner weight of the car it should make no difference ?

The spring rate is linear, so any compression will be proportional to the load from the corner weight - the only benefit of preload is that it increases the damper shaft stoke which may eliminate the striking of the bump stop.

I will, however, bow to greater knowledge !

(P.S. I'm sure I read a post from either Phil or StressedDave that made the same point)