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Luke's Nb Build

15338 Views 177 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  RemoteFX
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I'm starting my own build thread since my project build has recently started up again.

I bought my MX5 4 years ago. I bought the car as a daily driver but also to do track days in. Over the first year I did basic mods before going on track days.

GCF Roll Bar

Meister R Coilovers

Sparco Sprint Bucket seats

Sparco steering wheel

Hel Braided lines

Mintex pads

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I did my first track day and loved it. Did my second and hated it. I was at Donnington. The track was over booked, loads of red flags, people over taking both sides. Just not a good day with hardly any track time. It was also at this time I found the chassis rail rust. So I fell a bit out of love with the MX5 and the idea of doing more mods.

I also did a Caterham experience day at Silverstone, so for a while all I wanted was a kit car.

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After that I just continued using my MX5 as it was for the next 2 years.

Last year I got a new daily driver and did another track day at Donnington and loved it. The level of driving was excellent and got loads of track time. Even at the start of the day I knew I wanted to make my car more track focused and wanted more power. As with many MX5 drivers have experienced, I would catch many cars through the corners but come the straights cars would pull away, then i'd catch them again in the corners.

So with my love for the MX5 back I started ordering bits for a turbo build.

First off was a new radiator from Tegiwa

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This was a great job, really fun and great to be working on the car again.

Then more parts started coming in.

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Coolant re-route kit

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Intercooler and pipework

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Then a friend of a friend works at a RX8 breakers so I got some yellow injectors at a good price and cleaned them up.

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I also got an ME221 ECU installed.

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After this I decided to start stripping parts ready to fit the AEM wideband and continue with turbo specific upgrades.

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However when I jacked the car up to take out the O2 sensor, the exhaust was so rusty it either might not come out without the exhaust falling apart or I wouldn't get the new one in. Either way id be without a driveable car. So at this point I decided that if the car is not going to be driven I should get all the underside sorted before anything else. If I carried on and got it turbo'd it would be very hard to then park it for a month or 2 to sort rust and bushes etc.

So off with the suspension it was.

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Then stripped down, sand blasted and powder coated.

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I've ordered all new ball joints, drop links and rod ends. As well as a set of polybushes.

Next up Im taking the cleaning even further and I'm going to take off the front subframe. This will allow me to get the whole front sorted. There may be a few rust patches that need welding on the inner arches. I have a friend who can weld but at the moment I'm thinking I want to buy a cheap welder and learn myself. This will also allow me to do the rear sills and arches too later in the year.

So that's where I'm at today, due to shift work I won't be able to do much over the next week or so but i'll update when I make more process.

Thanks

Luke
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Yay.

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Fingers x strange doesnt earth through the flange bolts... sealant? Housing coating or whatnot.

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Blimey, really hope they help you out.

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Well, it went in running and came out broken in their care. Id be pursuing further.


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Not good feel for you. Does not add up to me.

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Only time ive seen bulbs blow like that is overvoltage..bulbs arnt polarity dependent.
Alternator regulator slight possibility or workshop grade jumpstarter on truck voltage...24v???

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Im an electrical engineer in the food manufacturing industry. I work on all voltages ac and dc. Im 49 and being doing it far too long. Apprentice trained from 17yrs old.
Something strange has happened to your car and i dont think your being told the truth....
Short circuit. Basically live and neutral being joined together without a load inbetween them. Massive current flows. Enough to create an arch. If done at a battery with no fuse connection can cause harness damage i.e melting cables etc. Most jumpstarters have short circuit protection.
Jumping starting a car ignition should be off whilst clamping leads on. If it was jumped incorrectly with ignition on and lights on i.e those circuits turned on then the Individual circuit fuses should blow but a fuse is quite slow acting when compared to say household circuit breakers.
A spike is an overvoltage situation that is a short time period. Again high voltage higher current. Fuses should blow.
Ecus are very susceptible to spikes as the components are small and the circuits tracks are not designed to flow hi current.
Id say its either you alternator or something bad happened at garage...alternator needs testing...bench test can be done as if faulty could damage another car.
I got roped in looking at a go kart project ebay special awhile back..
12v motorbike battery on it.
Would start and run blow the headlight and cdi unit when revving (Basic motorbike ecu).
Headlight bulb was a 6v...little gokart was a 6v system lol.

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Where is the car? Id be looking for arch damage on the battery clamps?
Arch damage could be black residue that wipes away and or exposed fresh metal thats has arched.

Id get that alternator tested..to rule it out.

Where is the car?

Who was the repairer, theyve left you high n dry even if alternator and not there fault youd think theyd help abit more tbh.

Car went in running...id be mighty pissed tbh.



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With a low battery and no running engine to top up youll get all sorts of electrical gremlins happening so i wouldnt drain it anymore as itll just get flatter.
I must admit ive welded lots and lots of cars and having always disconnected the negative of the cars battery ive never had a problem. If you got a bad earth on a welder no circuit no arch because no current flow. Ive done that when grinding back welds and then forgot to put the earth clamp back on..again ive not fried ecus or lights.
Your car the ecu regulates the alternator output. So start up would be fine and if over charging would be when the ecu turns alternator on...i dont know but something like a me ecu will have safety protection built into software and hardware...
I really dont know whats happened tbh.
Bulbs blowing can only be over voltage...


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Ah ok. Keep us informed.
Im concerned you pop in repaired or new ecu and same thing happens without that alternator being checked.

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Id tell about the bulbs blowing...and ask if they still want you to fire it up.

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I think i should start a mx5 repair business...

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Then again....no....flashbacks to laguna blue s special...
(Repairs still holding up as i follow it on mot history).
Id clean with a wire wheel. Get some p38 to seal it, primer onit and some satin black to seal it all off.


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Did you tell them about the blowing bulbs?


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Spot on by ME.

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Spot on mate. Its defo worthwhile getting it check.
£800 ecu at stake. ( thats a guess).
If nowt wrong with it.....
Something happened at the garage.....


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Theres a nut on the back..

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More info. Hand behind with a spanner ( 14mm i think). Socket on front and crack it off. Spin nut off and whilstmoving alternator forward n backwards long bolt should draw out...


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christ



you'd not enjoy it & end up depressedo_O

Rich.
Yep i like cars but dealing with people...99% sound but the 1%...im still owed money from my mot repair business...

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Well. All mine that i needed to remove have had a nut on the end some had aftermarket bolts in prob due to rounding off. Live n learn for me lol.

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