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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My lc1 just started reading 7.9 and refusing to budge. I turned the car off then on and it was the same. I then checked all the wiring and un-plugged then re-plugged the sensor, it's been working fine since! Might give it a free air calibration tomora.

The only other thing I can think of is my makeshift heat sheild/sink ain't doin it's job and it's gettin hot. The sensor is in the stock position, and the sheild is only ally, I need to get hold of some copper.

The clutch slipped whilst accelarating hard, had been off the clutch for a few seconds after a gearchange and it just jumped 2krevs. Let it Cool for half a mile and it's been ok since.
Looks like I might need a clutch! Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did a free air calibration and all was well! although it had started working again anyway! very odd!

Clutch wise, I did only as I know how, and thrashed it home! :)

In 20 miles, it slipped only once, when accelerating hard in 3rd after changing down from 5th? verry odd, it takes a full throttle burst in first fine, and similar manouvers were also fine, before and after! I can only assume the clutch is fine, it just ocaisonaly gets a bit hot and finds the power a bit much.

any reccomendations on clutches? money is a bit tight now after charging her, but buy cheap buy twice!!
 

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The only other thing I can think of is my makeshift heat sheild/sink ain't doin it's job and it's gettin hot. The sensor is in the stock position, and the sheild is only ally, I need to get hold of some copper.
I had mine in the stock position and it regularly tripped out with Error 3 (3 repeated flashes from the LED) indicating overheating. That was with a copper heatsink. I moved it back to the decat and it's been fine since. If it happens again try to check the LED for an error code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The only other thing I can think of is my makeshift heat sheild/sink ain't doin it's job and it's gettin hot. The sensor is in the stock position, and the sheild is only ally, I need to get hold of some copper.
I had mine in the stock position and it regularly tripped out with Error 3 (3 repeated flashes from the LED) indicating overheating. That was with a copper heatsink. I moved it back to the decat and it's been fine since. If it happens again try to check the LED for an error code.
[/quote]

see if it happens again, I'll make a copper heat sink first...
 

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I just got a 2mm 10x10 copper sheet off ebay, so that will sort a proper heat sheild.

Clutch wise - looks like options are....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RACING-STAGE-2-CLUTCH-KIT-94-05-MAZDA-MIATA-MX5-1-8L_W0QQitemZ350293901928QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item518f24c268 - cheap as chips, a bit too cheap, but I think a couple on here have them?

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4531&parentid=0&stocknumber=08-19010 - I would imagine being FM, it'd do the job nicely!

http://949racing.com/twindiscclutchmiata.aspx - stuff dreams are made of! lol

Anyone have any comments or other Idea's?
 

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mine used to error like that when my fueling was shite.

Infact the fueling was very good except as it came back in after the overrun. it'd splash a big rich splurge through which hits the sensor causing it to cool down fast and it goes... ARGGHHH cold stuff ERROR ERROr.. Gar!!!!

If you move it further down stream you can eliminate this, but better tuning is really the key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
mine used to error like that when my fueling was shite.

Infact the fueling was very good except as it came back in after the overrun. it'd splash a big rich splurge through which hits the sensor causing it to cool down fast and it goes... ARGGHHH cold stuff ERROR ERROr.. Gar!!!!

If you move it further down stream you can eliminate this, but better tuning is really the key.
cool, sound logical! autotune is really getting stuck in now so its feuling much better everywhere.

Just need to sort this clutch now. anyone have any experience with the above, I have seen the cheap american ebay one mentioned a few times on here, but no conclusive tests.
 

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mine used to error like that when my fueling was shite.

Infact the fueling was very good except as it came back in after the overrun. it'd splash a big rich splurge through which hits the sensor causing it to cool down fast and it goes... ARGGHHH cold stuff ERROR ERROr.. Gar!!!!

If you move it further down stream you can eliminate this, but better tuning is really the key.
cool, sound logical! autotune is really getting stuck in now so its feuling much better everywhere.

Just need to sort this clutch now. anyone have any experience with the above, I have seen the cheap american ebay one mentioned a few times on here, but no conclusive tests.
[/quote]

autotune will fuck up the bottom row of your table though.. the figures in there need to be quite low.. too high and you get the lurch coming out of overrun and the sensor going spaz... autotune though will see very lean values in those cells due to complete fuel cut and will add fuel to compensate.

You can turn the overrun cut off for tuning which helps but you'll never get it good.. most times i start on that row and just half every number in it... then see how it goes. and when autotuning you can select which parts of the table to tune.. just take that part and idle out of the tune as idle you need to tune manually too really.
 

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mine used to error like that when my fueling was shite.

Infact the fueling was very good except as it came back in after the overrun. it'd splash a big rich splurge through which hits the sensor causing it to cool down fast and it goes... ARGGHHH cold stuff ERROR ERROr.. Gar!!!!

If you move it further down stream you can eliminate this, but better tuning is really the key.
cool, sound logical! autotune is really getting stuck in now so its feuling much better everywhere.

Just need to sort this clutch now. anyone have any experience with the above, I have seen the cheap american ebay one mentioned a few times on here, but no conclusive tests.
[/quote]

autotune will fuck up the bottom row of your table though.. the figures in there need to be quite low.. too high and you get the lurch coming out of overrun and the sensor going spaz... autotune though will see very lean values in those cells due to complete fuel cut and will add fuel to compensate.

You can turn the overrun cut off for tuning which helps but you'll never get it good.. most times i start on that row and just half every number in it... then see how it goes. and when autotuning you can select which parts of the table to tune.. just take that part and idle out of the tune as idle you need to tune manually too really.
[/quote]

oh, I'll turn fuel cut off for now then, is that just the bottom two rows of VE then? just idle and tiny throttle openings. Autotune did add a load of fuel at idle yesterday, which I thaught was odd, but it did so straight after the LC1 calibration so I put it down to that. it idles better now though?? I'll resurect an old thread for the clutch, keep this for tuning.
 

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the very bottom row is the first row you hit when your fuel comes back on after the overrun.. and its always set too rich by autotune. and it will splash fuel on the sensor.
leave the next row up alone though.. autotune does ok there.
 

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Can't offer alot of advice on the LC-1 if you have checked your wiring as I have found thhat the quality of the earth connection is very important.

With regards to clutches, I have the ACT one from Mx5Parts and can recommend it. It is fairly light, smooth and robust. SPEC ones seem to be a trusted brand aswell, and cost effective.
 

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Can't offer alot of advice on the LC-1 if you have checked your wiring as I have found thhat the quality of the earth connection is very important.

With regards to clutches, I have the ACT one from Mx5Parts and can recommend it. It is fairly light, smooth and robust. SPEC ones seem to be a trusted brand aswell, and cost effective.
I have a Spec Stage 2... seems to work well...
 
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