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Daddys little soldier!
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Now my roll bar is fitted and looking rather good here is as promised my how to fit it (or how I did it anyway). This guide is for a TRLane GP on a 1999 Mk2 in silver although I suspect the majority will be applicable to all model .

Firstly print off Tims destructions and have a good read. They are helpful and pretty accurate even if it doesn't have any pictures.
Secondly take your time, measure twice cut once is a good mantra to go by.
Thirdly don't get all emotional about your powder coating it isn't the best ever (sorry Tim), and you will make marks on it unless you wrap everything in cotton wool. Most of the marks will be hidden by the parcel shelf and carpet once fitted anyway.
Fourthly make sure the clothing you wear doesn't have any zips or buttons on it that might scratch the paintwork of your car whilst you lean over, in and out.

Start by unclipping the roof,(you'll put it up and down many time during the process) and tilting the seats as far forward as they will go (for some it might be easier to remove the seats totally). Remove the seatbelt tower cowling and all the plastic bits around it, hardtop side latches (torx bolts) if you have them and the rubbery plastic bit that covers the corner of the door jam, your parcel shelf carpet and pull the firewall carpet forward from the top no need to remove it totally (use a sturdy fork to pull the carpet fasteners out without breaking them). Should look like this.


Remove the parcel shelf (I removed two parts although in hindsight I probably didn't need to remove the tank cover), xheaded screws for the centre part over the fuel tank sender then 10mm spanner for the main part) it is sharp even before you start cutting bits off it so take care. Unclip all the wiring harnesses secured to the floor and walls undoing the two earthing eyes secured to the seatbelt tower walls (10mm spanner). At this point you will need to remove three bolts in each seatbelt tower side panel that will stop your roll bar from sitting on the undertray (10mm spanner). You should now be able to see where the roll bar will eventually sit.
Then comes the first bit of cutting.I made a boo boo here by cutting too much of the parcel shelf away but I'm not too bothered as it ends up under the carpet. You only need to cut the flaps at the bottom of the seatbelt towers, best to sit your bar on the tray and measure for yourself and slide the bar in from the front.



Undo the two bolts holding your seatbelts to the towers (17mm spanner), be careful as there are several washer type spacers in there which will all fall out when you remove the bolt (you only need to remove these bolts if you have an integeral harness bar as I did).
When your roll bar is in place loosely fit the two tower bolts back in ensuring the spacers are in place. You may end up removing one of the spacers as the tabs for the harness bar take the space up (again only relevant if you have a harness bar).

Once the bar is sat on the undertray you can think about making holes to bolt the bar in place. Be aware that the feet of the bar may not sit flat on the undertray but don't worry all pulls into place when you tighten the bolts up. Photo shows wiring on the RH side you need to deal with and the bar on the undertray.


Now is the time I removed the rear wheels and put the car on axle stands and removed the arch liners. Just held in with plastic poppers they easily come out. Time to drill some holes.

Personally I didn't bother with punching holes so they mark the underside I centre popped them then went with a pilot drill though to at least make a clear mark on the underside. I used a step drill bit to make the correct size holes then finished off by drilling from the under side with a 10mm drill bit. At this pont I DIDN'T drill the side holes purely as on this occasion they won't line up when the feet are pulled into their final position some might find it the other way around but it's your call. Under the right hand wheel arch is a rubber/plastic grommet for all the electrics to pass through which you will need to trim to be able to fit the larger washer and nut. I put a little silicone in after to fill any possible holes made.
I put the eight bolts through the legs (2 each leg 4 each side) and fitted the two backing plates provided with nuts loosely. I decided that It might be a good idea to use bigger washers where there were no backing plates to spread the force when the nuts are tightened and opted to replace the nuts that Tim provided with stainless steel nylocks. But that was personal choice. Now tighten up the eight floor bolts as tight as they will go pulling the feet flat to the floor (using lots of copper slip on th bolts in case it ever has to come apart again god forbid)! (17mm spanner+socket). Photo shows RH underside with the grommet you need to trim and the bolts tight with washers and plates LH side mirrors minus the wiring.


Now remove the seatbelt reels (two bolts for each, top 10mm spanner and bottom 17mm spanner). Once the legs were bolted down I went for drilling the side holes. This is tricky and ideally you need a right angled drill. Failing that I went with a dremel to make the holes and grind them out to the right size. Awkward but doable it just takes time! Fit the four side bolts and tighten up. Photo shows behind the RH seatbelt reel with oversized washers and nylocks.


Double check you have tightened all the mounting bolts up properly as once you start to fit everything back together it's impossible to get to the bolt heads again without taking everything apart. There should be 12 mounting bolts and two tower bolts which are extra if you have a harness bar.
It is a good idea t to give the car a good hovering at this point, to get rid of all the swarf. Buy this point I was sick of it sticking to my spanners and getting splinters of it in my fingers.

Now time to cut the parcel shelf. There is no ideal way of doing it and even Tims instructions say it is down to the individual to cut as they see fit. However I ended up cutting a bit at a time and then test fitting to see how it matched up. Took a while but eventually I got it right. Photo shows RH side of parcel shelf after trimming.


Time to refit the carpets and trim. Fitting the carpet I went for the rear first put all the fasteners along the roof base. Then fit it as best as is possible around the bar legs. You will need to trim as you see fit but again there is no specific method but to test and adjust. A bit at a time. Once the carpet is trimmed you can put the remainder of the fastners along the firewall and tidy any loose ends away.

Refit all the trim in the reverse of how you took it off. The base of the seatbelt tower cowling needs trimming to fit in between the bar and the seatbelt towers. Once the bottom is trimmed off it should slide in reletively easily with only a little persuasion.

So there you have it seems easy reading it back. My original plan was to do this in my workshop at work but it ended up that I did it on the driveway at home. The only problem here is that the rain beat me on several occasions which meant the job took a day or so longer than it should have.

Any alterations then MODs please feel free to do so. Any questions please ask.

Hope this is of help to someone!!
Kirsty.
 

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good guide kirsty.
you certainly persevered longer with the camera than i did!

just a few bits to add incase it helps anyone:

-the seatbelt bolts are 16mm AF heads in a mk1
-stainless nuts are weaker than mild steel nuts, but the nylocs are certainly a better bet than the plain nut you get with the bar. i should have put nylocs on mine but the bolts weren't long enough. i imagine i'll be under the car over summer though so will be swapping mine.
-nylocs don't work as well with copper slip on them
-did you need to take the tank cover off?

tom
 

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Daddys little soldier!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Tom, I've ammended the post to say that you probably don't need to remove the tank cover but I did so my writup reflected so.

I've never had a problem with copper slip causing nuts to come loose and at least I'm safe in the know that should I ever need to remove them it will be a damn sight easier.

It's my first real how to on a job I have only ever done once so I'm not expecting it to be perfect. I guess the fact that I did the job over a couple of days helped my enthusiasm to take photos. I was in no rush as I don't need the car.
 

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Excellent guide Kirtsy
Moved to the new Knowledge Base.

Daz
 
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