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Hi all

I've never really fitted a set of harnesses before, just wondering if its possible to fit harnesses to the standard cabin brace bar, or do you need to buy a specific harness bar?

Will be used with standard seats at first and then eventually, with buckets.

Cheers
 

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i wouldn't, though having seen the recent stripped brace bar thread, i'm less set in my conviction of not using it. what's the wall thickness? (what's the thickness of the end plates? it's half this)

for the money for a proper one, it seems like a bad idea for a bit of scrimping and saving.
tom
 

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Hmm yes fixed headrest seats. Thought they are too wide for harnesses.
I just one some for road use as I love the feel they give!!
 

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Get a roll bar with a built in harness bar.

Pat...
 

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Has anyon used harnesses with fixed headrest seats or is it impossible?
as i've said, it's unsafe and most harness instructions would explicitly prohibit it. the schroth and sabelt instructions certainly do.

if you're happy and there's only you to damage, the caveat's there. heed it if you wish
tom
 

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Rotary buckle, what's the difference?
I don't know much about harnesses!!

Well I have a remote control for my radio, so no worries having to lean over that far with harnesses on
 

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It's not the leaning over - it's general movement full stop.

"Proper" harnesses won't work unless you have them really tight and it makes you very immobile - totally impractical in a street car.

Most folk have them slack and do the shoulder straps up before the lap strap so the buckle rides to high as well.

Pat...
 

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Normally you go;

clunk-clip

With a 4point rotary buckle you go,

clunk-clip, clunk-clip, clunk-clip then tighten, tighten, tighten, tighten,

They're just a ball ache


oh and unless you get some fancy schroths the adjusters will be fiddly because of the trans tunnel.
 

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Harnesses in a road car ain't too bad...

...if:

You're the only one driving it
You've got seats that fit the harnesses well (harness slots, so that you're not hunting for them lost down the sides all the time)
You've got long enough arms to reach all the controls from the driver's seat
You've got a FastTrack/EZ-Pass/Other automatic toll booth paying widget
You never park in barrier car parks
You buy harnesses with good adjusters (pull-up on the lap belts, pull down on the shoulders)
You fit the harnesses with the proper belt angles

I had TRS harnesses in the Land-Rover on Rover Vitesse seats. Not *too* bad as a daily drive. You sat "on" the car rather than "in" the car so the adjusters were easy to get to; it had no radio/heater etc that you had to reach for; I moved the handbrake within reach.

Same harnesses in a single-seater? Absolute nightmare. Impossible to get them synched down tight without two people helping either side of the car with their feet on the buckle pulling like crap on the lap belt adjusters. Much the same with the shoulder belts. Not enough elbow room in the cockpit to do it yourself, and you'd never get the buckle done up if you tried to adjust first.

I've had Scroth harnesses in a '5 with Corbeau clubmans (terrible, terrible seat - just don't) and that was workable but not great. You soon learned to keep the door open (but not too open, else you wouldn't be able to reach it) after getting in so that you had the elbow room to do the (pull up) lap straps. Wheel/stalks and gears/handbrake you could reach, but nothing else. No chance of doing the roof without undoing the belts, and if you dropped your change on the floor that game over.

***The Scroth harnesses *are* leagues ahead of anything else I've tried in the adjuster department, but that doesn't diminish the rest of the 4-pointer faff ***

Best belts ever were in an old Rover 800. Inertia-reel 3-point belts, but if you would them out all the way before putting them on it would engage the ratchet. So as they reeled in they wouldn't then come back out again, unless you undid the buckle and reeled the belt completely in. Quick to put on (click it in, pull the belt out, let it reel back in, then snych it tight) but kept you nailed in place. Mostly the tight lap strap that did it - you could slighter out from the shoulder strap to grab things in the cockpit if needs be, then slide back into the belt. Or just click it off, do what you needed to, then set it again in no time.

The lock-off jobbie you can get on ebay for inertia-reel belts are a similar way of achieving the same thing.

Some 4-point harnesses with automatic synch-down would be mega. Get it, press the lap button to synch the lap belt down, then press the shoulder button to synch the shoulder belts in, with a temporary "release" button for the shoulder belts so that you could grab things from the cockpit. Easy enough to design/manufacture, but getting those past the safety nazis is a no-go. (too small a volume to pay for the testing)
 

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Well written that man!

Pat...
 

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Best belts ever were in an old Rover 800. Inertia-reel 3-point belts, but if you would them out all the way before putting them on it would engage the ratchet. So as they reeled in they wouldn't then come back out again, unless you undid the buckle and reeled the belt completely in. Quick to put on (click it in, pull the belt out, let it reel back in, then snych it tight) but kept you nailed in place. Mostly the tight lap strap that did it - you could slighter out from the shoulder strap to grab things in the cockpit if needs be, then slide back into the belt. Or just click it off, do what you needed to, then set it again in no time.

The lock-off jobbie you can get on ebay for inertia-reel belts are a similar way of achieving the same thing.
I've got a lock-off jobbie - the CG Lock. Great things.
Interestingly the way you describe the Rover seatbelts - lots of VW/Audi/Skodas do exactly the same thing but they don't advertise it. Great for fast roads and also for fitting child seats really securely. Pull out all way, click tongue into socket, then as they reel in they won't reel out again.
 
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