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Mr Miller :)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So been giving the wheels a bit of a spruce up and wanted to make them less fake looking as those plastic studs had seen better days!

You will need:

- Pliers

- WD40, GT85, Muc off bike spray, tapping grease, anything of a similar nature

- Desired taps (M8 in my case)

- Tap wrench

- Gloves

- Bolts of choice, again this is personal preference

- Drill - May not be required for all wheels only stubborn studs!

Firstly take your fake split wheel with those nasty plastic studs in and use the pliers to pull each 1 out, they are normally glued in very losely so a quick tug should see them straight out, if not use a suitable drill:

IMG_0997.jpg


Once you have pulled out all your studs you should be left with something like this:

IMG_0998.jpg


Now, take your Tap wrench, chosen tap(s) and lubrication, for me this was an M8 tap, tap wrench and WD40, along with some gloves:

IMG_1001.jpg


Spray/smear the first hole with your lubricant and tap as you would any other hole, be careful not to snap the tap inside the wheel as it will be a bugger to get out.

Spraying the WD40: (photo with help from Mother Miller :))

IMG_1005.jpg


Tapping each hole:

IMG_1006.jpg


Make sure to use plenty of lubricant to stop the tap getting stuck, also remember for every 2 turns clockwise do half a turn anticlockwise, this will break up the swarf and stop the tap getting stuck and will also reduce the risk of snapping the tap.

Once you have tapped all your holes then they will all have a thread as shown (sizes may vary):

IMG_1020.jpg


To finish off your wheels add bolts of your choice, in my caseI went for M8 Stainless Resitorx which i cut down to size. The finished product:

IMG_1024.jpg


IMG_1026.jpg


There we go, you now have more real looking fake splits!

Tips:

- Ensure to clean tap thoroughly after each hole, if theres swarf in the tap you risk snapping a tap or stripping a thread.

- Have patience, tapping is not partiularly quick (specially with 30 holes per wheel on my case!) the last thing you want to do is snap a tap or strip the threads from a hole.

- If you have drilled the studs out, make sure your drill is the right size for the taps you wish to use, dont go and drill the holes 10mm if you want to tap them M10 as this will not work.

- Clean the wheel afterwards to remove any lubricant that may be left over, this stops markings on your wheels/greasy residue.

- If your drilling it okay to make the holes slightly deeper but be careful not to make them too deep as this could see air leaks in the wheels and render your wheel useless.

Hope this helps some of you guys :)

Enjoy!

J
 

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I'd strongly advise against doing this. You're introducing stress raisers with every tapped hole and stainless bolts in alloy wheels will see the alloy turned to white dust in a couple of years (or a few months if you run them through winter).

The quality control of the casting of fake splits is unlikely to sit well with poorly controlled mods like this. You may have plenty of safety margin, you may have none.

Under no circumstances go drilling your wheels with a hand drill
 

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Google "Galvanic Corrosion".

Also agree with Indykid above re stress points

Also you've just added extra unsprung weight...

and just to be extra pedantic, it's more like 1 turn cut then 1/2 turn counter cut when tapping :)
 

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Its his mums look at what he has posted above...
 

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I'd strongly advise against doing this. You're introducing stress raisers with every tapped hole
hmmm, not sure its going to make any real difference ... there are already holes there and he is increasing the size by a very small amount, if the wheel was that close to failure to not allow the holes to be tapped then I dont think the wheel manufacturer would be using fake bolts in the first place.

Added to that, he is filling the hole with a metal bolt so if anything the stress around the hole is being reduced of that of a plastic bolt.

However, i do agree with the steel - aluminium bit
 

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hmmm, not sure its going to make any real difference ... there are already holes there and he is increasing the size by a very small amount, if the wheel was that close to failure to not allow the holes to be tapped then I dont think the wheel manufacturer would be using fake bolts in the first place.

Added to that, he is filling the hole with a metal bolt so if anything the stress around the hole is being reduced of that of a plastic bolt.
I'd strongly advise on reading up on stress analysis and fatigue.

(I've highlighted the correct statements in red)
 

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If he likes it that's what really matters and I don't think that he expected some of the rather odd comments when he posted.

Shame as he probably posted in good faith.

advice is one thing but........

I do hope that he is not now put off posting any other mods etc that he does in the future.
 

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If he likes it that's what really matters and I don't think that he expected some of the rather odd comments when he posted.

Shame as he probably posted in good faith.

advice is one thing but........

I do hope that he is not now put off posting any other mods etc that he does in the future.
I fully agree, however, it would appear that he doesn't have much of an idea regarding metallurgy or anything of that nature. Not that he should of course, but obviously if you start messing around with tapping wheels etc (something which is quite an important safety item) then you may want to have an idea about it before posting about it on a public forum, where those in the know (i.e geeks or people who actually work in the field) tend to linger.
 

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Mr Miller :)
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627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes I know that corrosion is will happen, but:

A. I do not intend to run these wheels in the long run as I'm after something wider

B. I have drifted these wheels and ran them well above 100mph, with both a stretched tyre and a "standard tyre" and they are still fine, no warping, no visible stress cracks etc.

C. The holes are not drilled through and have not been drilled deeper by me, they were around 6-7mm in diameter and 8.5mm deep. the tap has only widened them to M8.

D. Regarding spending excess time on a fake product, I brought the wheels cheap with tyres from a friend in a rather sorry state, so I've spruced them up the way I want to :)

E. I didn't say anywhere you had to choose the bolts that I have chosen, but you try and find my an external torx (BBS bolt) in M8 that is both stainless and a reasonable price, I work in the engine plant in BMW and even there they are challenging to find! I'd have like external torx but settled for these as they are my next favourite :). (please note BBS external torx are M7, hence the price).

I don't want this post to sound like a rant, more of an explanation to all the comments that have been made :) so please don't start thinking I'm getting arsey or anything, just wanted people to know the answers to some of their queries.

J
 

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A. I do not intend to run these wheels in the long run as I'm after something wider

E. I work in the engine plant in BMW and even there they are challenging to find!
As long as you scrap the wheels when you get something wider, not sell them to some clueless scene chimp...and don't kill anyone in the meantime, sobeit I guess.

Pretty cool that work let you borrow bolts though.
 

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Mr Miller :)
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627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
They will more than likely become my secondary pair of wheels.

Huh? I havnt taken anything from work, I meant that external torx bolt are challenging to find, hence why I brought resitorx?

J
 

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We all like things you can do yourself on your cars, but when it is inducing potential problems and safety issues then they need to be highlighted. Cracking/exploding wheels causing you to crash, crash into others, swiping into the pavement killing a small child may sound extreme but by carrying out this mod you are at risk.

Same as when people start welding up steering knuckles for more lock drifting but run the car on the road, that's just not on.
 
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