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Torque can be improved by advancing the ignition timing. Use this to your advantage by not having work the engine higher up the rev range and MPG could improve. You probably won't see a massive improvement in fuel consumption though.
 
If I do the 14 degree mod on my standard ecu, and then install an uprated ecu, am I asking for trouble?
Which "uprated ECU" do you have in mind?

Please bear in mind that the "14 degree mod" is not rocket science. If you have access to a timing light (about £16 to buy one) then it takes literally a couple of minutes to set the base ignition timing to pretty much anywhere between 0 degrees and 20 degrees BTDC.
 
I have a Jam Racing ecu ready to fit but haven't done the timing mod yet..
I have the timing light and get the principle of the timing mod, but if I throw in the Jam ecu (more agressive fueling, 8k rev limit) am I going to start to cause problems if I do the mod and install this ecu?
 
You are going to struggle unless you temporarily refit the cover with the timing marks on it. Are you not worried about getting a stray stone in the timing belt?
 
I have a 1.6 FM2 with a miata link ecu.

Is all the above applicable to this setup? I have been told that 'locking the timing' is more difficult with my setup.

Is it the exact same procedure? i want to make sure that i have it set as 10 degrees as a base setup
 
It's unlikely you could get a stone in there even if you tried.
You would be surprised where gravel can end up after you take a trip through a gravel trap. ;)
 
What does the wire bridging in the diagnostic socket do? I did my mod yesterday and drove her after a whole year so have no idea if it made a difference... could it be because I didn't bridge these connections?
 
What does the wire bridging in the diagnostic socket do? I did my mod yesterday and drove her after a whole year so have no idea if it made a difference... could it be because I didn't bridge these connections?
The ECU will constantly adjust the ignition timing according to inputs such as engine speed, ambient air temperature, coolant temperature, electrical load on the alternator and battery.

Bridging the diagnostic connector terminals basically tells the ECU to stop dicking about with the ignition timing and keep it at the static setting according to the CAS position while you check the timing with a strobe light.
 
Great guide! I'm off home later to do it, I have a timing strobe from my old SR20DE engine days. I've copied the guide into a word doc to print. pm me if you want me to email it to you (if that's ok with the OP of course)
 
Can anyone tell me why my pulley has two marks? (1.8 eunos 1994)?
 
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