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Eunos Roadster jap import. Registered as an 1998
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all it’s me again, still got issues with my Eunos roadster 1.6. Still won’t start. Checked the fuel pump and fuel pump relay and both working fine. Got a good spark when I take plugs out and test them. Got fresh fuel in it but still not start. When I connect the plug leads back up I can’t hear them click into place to wondering whether they are making a contact.

I have an issue with all my lights apart from my headlights not working and my dash lights don’t work either.
Anyone able to help me with this.
 

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Eunos Roadster jap import. Registered as an 1998
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is fuel reaching your injectors when it's priming?

Remind me what happens when you turn the key, cranking but nothing else? no spluttering?
I’m getting fuel up to the injectors as I took the pipe off and cranked it and fuel was flowing really well. When I turn the key it just cranks and doesn’t even try to fire. Tried east start in it and didn’t do anything apart from backfire and shoot a flame out the air intake pipe.
 

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Eunos Roadster jap import. Registered as an 1998
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I mean this reeks of crank and cam sensor issues tbh
I’ve replaced the cam angle sensor but still no difference. I’m wondering whether it’s not getting a good spark from the plug leads because when I plug the leads in I only hear one of them click onto the plug but they all feel tight.
 

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The CAS connection looks pretty symmetrical but I was assured years ago it only goes in one way around. Never actually tried to get it wrong to see. Of course the CAS timing can be wrong if the cam itself is wrong. Do you know if the cambelt timing is right? Was the car running normally in its current configuration before whatever went wrong happened?

Also, when you say you get a good spark when testing the plugs, are you talking about testing them on this car? (I assumed you did mean that but that would also mean your CAS was working and your ignition too.)
 

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Eunos Roadster jap import. Registered as an 1998
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The CAS connection looks pretty symmetrical but I was assured years ago it only goes in one way around. Never actually tried to get it wrong to see. Of course the CAS timing can be wrong if the cam itself is wrong. Do you know if the cambelt timing is right? Was the car running normally in its current configuration before whatever went wrong happened?

Also, when you say you get a good spark when testing the plugs, are you talking about testing them on this car? (I assumed you did mean that but that would also mean your CAS was working and your ignition too.)
I do know that the cambelt was done not so long ago and it’s timed up perfectly. The car was running before but it had been stood for some time and won’t start now. Yes I tested the plugs on this car before I replaced the CAS and after I replaced the CAS and they started sparking after I replaced the CAS but I did read on another article that when you crank the RPM gauge will flutter if the CAS is working but on mine it doesn’t seem to flutter so whether I’ve got a loose connection.
 

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Revs while cranking might just not be high enough to show on the rev counter, I suppose. If the plugs are sparking then the ECU must be reading the CAS to know when to fire them, and clearly the igniter, coils and plugs work too. It also eliminates the possibility the cambelt snapped, otherwise the CAS wouldn't operate.

Since you checked and found the fuel pump is running I suppose the next thing is whether the injectors are firing. If they lost their common connection that might stop all of them. Bit vague on the injector wiring but I think they all get fed 12V and the ECU grounds whichever one it wants to fire. Oh, except the 1.6 has batch injection so they work as two pairs instead of four singles. Longwinded way of saying it may be worth checking if 12V is getting to the injector plugs.
 

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Eunos Roadster jap import. Registered as an 1998
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Revs while cranking might just not be high enough to show on the rev counter, I suppose. If the plugs are sparking then the ECU must be reading the CAS to know when to fire them, and clearly the igniter, coils and plugs work too. It also eliminates the possibility the cambelt snapped, otherwise the CAS wouldn't operate.

Since you checked and found the fuel pump is running I suppose the next thing is whether the injectors are firing. If they lost their common connection that might stop all of them. Bit vague on the injector wiring but I think they all get fed 12V and the ECU grounds whichever one it wants to fire. Oh, except the 1.6 has batch injection so they work as two pairs instead of four singles. Longwinded way of saying it may be worth checking if 12V is getting to the injector plugs.
Okay I will try that on each injector and see what voltage I get and get back to you
 

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With regards to the timing gun.

Again @Martin Y will likely be able to correct me if I'm wrong but, I believe if you put the car into diagnostic mode, and then try to fire the car, it should be firing at 10 deg BTDC? I assume that's how it works anyway.
Yes, I think you don't even need to put the link in the diagnostics. All you want to know is that the plugs are firing and it's in the ballpark of 10°BTDC for cylinder 1,.

It's a good indication that the CAS, ECU and ignition all work and the timing belt is OK.
 

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Eunos Roadster jap import. Registered as an 1998
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi guys just an update, I’ve checked for 12v at the injectors and I’ve got 12v and checked for continuity on each injector and they have continuity and the injector relay is clicking. However after I did all these checks, a noise appeared from under the throttle body and when I remove the injector relay it stops. Does anyone know why this is???
 

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not sure about the noise

so we've established you're getting fuel to the fuel rail, 12v power is at the injectors

they either aren't firing because something isn't telling them to fire OR they aren't firing because they are blocked/stuck though that would be very weird if they were all like that.

if you end up accessing the injectors/fuel rail, do the bottle test and see if they are actually firing, but you did say the plugs were completely dry

I almost want to say you have no fuel but you've verified that already xD
 
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