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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any guidance on this predicament would be very much appreciated.

I am midway through swapping my 1.8 open diff for a torsen type 2.

My original diff has single piece drive shafts.

The torsen is from a 1.8 (has the pinion damper) and has the little stub shafts fitted. I know that the 1.8 drive shafts are interchangeable so my plan was to retain the single piece drive shafts.

The problem I have is how to remove the single piece drive shafts from the original diff so that I can drop it.

Most of the guides and videos I have watched have the stub shafts and say just to undo the the top wishbone, angle the hub outwards and disconnect the stub shaft from the drive shaft.

Obviously that won't work for me because it's a single piece drive shaft.

Is my only option to undo the hub nut on each side to get the drive shafts out of the diff?

If so am I in for a world of pain getting the hub nut off?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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If you remove the upper wishbone bolt and loosen the lower wishbone bolt, you can pull the uprights out far enough to get enough clearance to get the ends of the one piece halfshafts out of the diff. You'll need to rotate and shuffle the diff about as it comes out, but it will come out.

You'll probably need some sort of wedge to knock the retaining clips free on the splines of the inner CVs. I use a bit of aluminium flat bar to lever the rim of the CV housing against the bosses on the diff case. Just stay away from the seals. It only needs a sharp tap and as soon as they're moving, they'll pull out by hand. Try it with the fixed stub shafts first so you know what to expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you remove the upper wishbone bolt and loosen the lower wishbone bolt, you can pull the uprights out far enough to get enough clearance to get the ends of the one piece halfshafts out of the diff. You'll need to rotate and shuffle the diff about as it comes out, but it will come out.

You'll probably need some sort of wedge to knock the retaining clips free on the splines of the inner CVs. I use a bit of aluminium flat bar to lever the rim of the CV housing against the bosses on the diff case. Just stay away from the seals. It only needs a sharp tap and as soon as they're moving, they'll pull out by hand. Try it with the fixed stub shafts first so you know what to expect.
Thanks for the quick reply.

Ok well that sounds marginally better than removing the hub nut. It will be a couple of days until I can go back to it but I will report back!
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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I have literally just had to do this. Undo the upper and loosen the lower wishbone bolt as suggested and you can pull the shafts out. It's likely the bushes will bind and the hub won't pull down freely, get a friend to help and using a bar or jack handle lever the hubs downwards if needed while you pull the axles out. To get the amount of movement you'll need to get the axles out you'll have to take the rear calipers off and free the ABS sensor bracket by removing the 12mm bolt that holds it on the knuckle. It's really close, only a few mm in it, but you can just do it. I would get the axles out before lowering the diff at all, I found it way easier than with the diff able to move about, you can't lower the diff that much before the axles foul on the lower wishbone anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have literally just had to do this. Undo the upper and loosen the lower wishbone bolt as suggested and you can pull the shafts out. It's likely the bushes will bind and the hub won't pull down freely, get a friend to help and using a bar or jack handle lever the hubs downwards if needed while you pull the axles out. To get the amount of movement you'll need to get the axles out you'll have to take the rear calipers off and free the ABS sensor bracket by removing the 12mm bolt that holds it on the knuckle. It's really close, only a few mm in it, but you can just do it. I would get the axles out before lowering the diff at all, I found it way easier than with the diff able to move about, you can't lower the diff that much before the axles foul on the lower wishbone anyway.
Thanks - that is encouraging. And useful to know about the caliper and ABS too. I am hoping to give it another go over the weekend so I will update then. I might upload some photos too for anyone with the same question in the future.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Right, well with calipers off and the upper wishbone undone, I was able clear the driveshafts from the diff just about. Managed to win the battle with the PPF bolt "collars" too.

The only job left before I can hopefully drop the diff is to separate the rear of the diff from the prop shaft. I've got the 4 bolts out but as yet I can't get the two to separate. I am assuming this can only be corrosion where the faces meet so hopefully soaking it for a week with shock and unlock should give me a chance of prying the two apart next weekend...
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Likely just corrosion, there's a small lip on the shaft that fits into the diff which is likely sticking, a gentle tap should free it up easily enough.

I'd forgotten about the collar, it's a PITA.
 

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Oh, yes, I forgot about that: the flange on the prop shaft has a raised ring or lip in the middle which extends neatly into the hole in the middle of the diff flange. For alignment and balance I suppose. It can take a firm grip. First one I tried came out easily but on my current car it got stubborn. Bit of penetrating oil and a few smacks with a wooden mallet were enough to shock it loose.
 
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