Hi,

I'm sorry I can't help you with that housing as me and my friends have standard coil packs... Maybe someone from the forum will know more.

About the thermostat - they should be interchangeable, but again as an owner of MK1 I never tried to fit OEM MK2.5 thermostat.

 

Hi whisper, I'm in the process of getting the parts for my turbo kit and I think this bit is essential, I have an import 1.6 but am fitting a Megasquirt ECU so guessing i can then run the fans from that and just have a blanking plate on the front??

 

Hi,

yes, Megasquirt should run fans from temp sensor at the back, so the front switch is no longer needed. I have the same setup except for mine ECU is VEMS, not Megasquirt.

Sam

 

Hi whisper
I was looking at getting one of your kits as my lower stat housing is shot
But looking at your pictures I notice you use the lower housing is this correct ? Or can I use the blanching plate flush on the engine ?
And would I then have to join the two small water pipes together or would I have to T piece out the blanking plate ?
Hope this makes sense and sorry for all the questions
Oh yeah it's a 1991 NA import

 

Anyone heard from whisper?

Ive used his website to contact and PM'd. Had nothing back.

 

Hi guys,

I apologise for not replying to you, I was moving in last 4-5 days, so I had to put all my other activities on hold for a week. I will process all your inquiries shortly.

Sorry once again.

Samuel

 

Yey you're back

 

@Mark Evans if you mean this housing:

then you can delete it and plug the engine (it's generally advisable to make a plate over the freeze plug to keep it from backing out). You will need to search the internet to find out what to do with the small coolant lines, I kept the neck because I need to feed my turbo water line from it. Sorry I couldn't help much, but I don't want to give advice if I'm not 100% sure about it.

Sam

 

Hi Sam,

Just wondering, how come you make the following suggestion in your initial post?

'if buying a new thermostat, get one valve type'

How does it effect the re-route?

Thanks

Stephen

 

It does not affect it in terms of cooling, but it might not fit very well... http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=149997&p=2173225

 

Thanks - that will teach me to read an entire thread before posting!

 

What do you guys between the sensor and the exit mountings. Do you guys liquid packeging?

And how far do you guys mount the sensor in? Till the end or do you guys put some washers between?

 

Hi guys,

I'm planning on doing a coolant reroute once I install my turbo. The thing is, I'd like to keep my Autoexe Carbon Intake in there when the time comes, and I don't know if it'll be possible the way the hose to the back of the engine is placed.

This is a pic of the kit:

Do you think it would be possible to run the hose to the radiator under the one to the intake?

 

Samer, it should be possible to route around that, you'll need to experiment with hoses a bit to find an s-bend that will work for you.

Not sure how you are going to run pipework if you are keeping that when you turbo though, keeping in mind that the intake will be on the other side of the bay once complete.

These kits don't include pipework, so its really up to you with how creative you want to get with the routing.

 

Samer, it should be possible to route around that, you'll need to experiment with hoses a bit to find an s-bend that will work for you.

Not sure how you are going to run pipework if you are keeping that when you turbo though, keeping in mind that the intake will be on the other side of the bay once complete.

These kits don't include pipework, so its really up to you with how creative you want to get with the routing.

Alright, I'll try to make it work out

My idea when fitting the turbo was to have a 90º bend coming from the intercooler to the throttle body, and then running a straight pipe from the intake to the other part of the engine and then having a bend in there to connect the turbo to.

 

As Sliderman says, you can route the hoses whatever direction you'd able to come up with. If you can fit the hose beneath the intake pipe as shown, you should have no issues:

My reroute hoses with intake piping from intercooler:

Reroute installation guide available: http://coolant-reroute.com/installation.html

 

Hi Samuel,
Do you still have kits for sale? What is the current price?

I'd be looking to remove the front thermostat housing completely.

Cheers. Nick.

 

Hi Nick,

A.) £84 for engines with fan switch in front of the engine (http://diy.icydesigns.com/i/368-p2.jpg)
B.) £79 for engines without fan switch in front of the engine
C.) £69 without blanking plate regardless of the engine (if you want to freeze plug the outlet)

It's also present in the Classifieds section. You can order one by sending me a PM.

Thank you for your interest.

Samuel

 

Hey guys, I've been reading a lot about coolant re-route and the kit from coolant-reroute.com. Still got a few questions hope you guys can help. I have a MX-5 NA6.

1. For those who freeze plugged the front coolant outlet, what did you guys do with the coolant circuit that goes through the throttle body. Did you guys: --merge it with the hose that goes from the back of the engine to the radiator;

-install a longer hose and connect it to the water pump;

-or some other arrangement?

2. With the kit from coolant-reroute.com, when the thermostat closed, all coolant will circulate through the heater core, the water pump and back into the engine. With the thermostat open, some (most?) of it will be diverted to the radiator while some will still circulate through the heater core? In the post on coolant re-route at Solomiata.com, the guy had the same basic set-up, but instead of routing the heater core outlet hose to the water pump, he merged it to the main hose going from the back of the engine to the radiator. Does anyone have this configuration? My understanding is that it will take the engine longer to warm up, since no "hot" coolant is recirculated into the engine.

3. For those who freeze plugged the front coolant outlet in a NA6, how did you set up the fan switch (temp sensor) at the rear coolant outlet. My understanding is that it has to be installed in the "hot side", i.e. before the thermostat?

Thanks. Chris

 

Hi,

if I may share my opinion on some of the points you mention:

2. Unless you're building a race car or any other special application, you want to maintain heater core circuit. This helps to warm up engine evenly and I would not recommend blanking it out or rerouting it to the radiator. If you do so, you'll bypass the thermostat and get water cooled through radiator all the time, so you'll need a calendar to measure warm up time for your engine. There is a "natural" flow resistance in the heater core, so not too much of your coolant goes that way after thermostat opens. In case you really want to do something about it, just make the outlet smaller to reduce the flow through the heater core further.

3. There are multiple possibilities, one of them is drill & tap the reroute spacer, there's plenty of room on it to to that.

Cheers,

Sam

 

Thought I should pitch in and say I received my b kit last week and started fitting yesterday.

The KIA t/stat housing needs a longer bolt, I guess this is why you recommend the 1.6 t/stat ☺ (1.6 fits with bolts supplied)
I like it even more that I had to figure a couple of bits out, read so many guides and thought I was going to do it blindfolded lol

Really great kit for much cheaper than the FM one, wish I had an accurate temp gauge to measure the difference ☺

 

Really great kit for much cheaper than the FM one, wish I had an accurate temp gauge to measure the difference ☺

Have you seen my mod kit for temp gauge?

http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?/topic/257657-Woking-Temp-Gauge-Mk2

 

Just found it... will think about that one as although I like it... It seems like a lot of messing with stuff I don't understand!

 

My experience of fitting the kit to my 1.6 supercharged car was that temps don't reduce but it evens them out over all cylinders, more specifically the back one against the firewall. Had a problem on a previous car where that cylinder "overheated" resulting in problems didn't want to risk it when I went FI. Whispers kit was exactly what I needed, really liked it.

Barrie

 

Thanks guys for the kind words. In case you'd have any suggestions or wishes, please share - there's always room for improvement