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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've a 1.6 Eunos Turbo mk1 . The clutch is slipping now I've upped the boost, I think it was at the end of its life anyway.

So is a standard 1.6 clutch good for 180+ bhp ?

If not can anyone recomend an uprated clutch for a 1.6 ?

Or is it better to fit a 1.8 flywheel and clutch although i'm guessing there heavier .

I'd also like good value for money


cheers
 

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I like turtles.
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All i know is that even though the 1.8 flywheel is heavier, it's a common upgrade as it is capable of taking much more power which is why sometimes you find a 1.8 fly on a 1.6 car if it has been charged.

Sorry i can't help on the clutch front though
 

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ターボパワー
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few options.

Get a paddle clutch and keep OEM pressure plate. good way to hold good power while keeping light pedal feeling.

Ideally get 1.8 flywheel and lighten.

or..

keep with organic clutch and get a uprated pressure plate to keep up with the desire torque levels. This allows you to never have the judder issues that come with paddle clutch's at a price of a heavy pedal.

A good clutch pressure plate combo in 1.6 size will do the job. It's all down to what torque power your after!

Personally I run a 1.6 Stage 3 F1 paddle clutch.. works great.. but once fully warmed on track.. I can get it to slip.. but on public roads even after a blast it's never slipped.

So as I'm after saving the pennies. I'm investing in a 1.8 Flywheel plus another F1 Stage 3 clutch but in 1.8 size. The extra surface area should help.

Ideally I would get a uprated pressure plate mated with a paddle clutch.

EDIT:

Just noticed you mentions 180+ HP... erm... a OEM 1.8 will hold that. but when you say plus do you mean up to 250hp?

as if you plan to up the boost.. you may as well get a good kit to start off with.
 

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Dr. Eunos
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Guys, it is the torque not the power which overcomes a std clutch, my supercharged 1.8 R2-Ltd with only 170bhp will slip its` standard clutch in 3rd and 4th gears, especially if my misses has been driving the car, it slips once or twice while it de-glazes itself once I boot it but then just about holds - so it is right on its` limit of friction.
I will be putting a Helix clutch (£300) in it before Germany, if I were you I would get a 1.8 flywheel and fit the same, they have a very good reputation generally for FI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies
I missed out on a helix 4 puck paddle clutch on ebay last night . used but only £80. duh.
I think a 1.8 flywheel lightened with a paddle is the sensible way to go. i'm hooked on the power of the dark side and will probably develop the car over time. If i do it now it will save the effort at a later time.

Cheers
 

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I just bought a new f1 stage 2 clutch kit on US eBay for £170 shipped, it says it can handle 290 HP whilst still giving a close to stock clutch feel. I'm only running stock power on a 1.6 and I'm coupling it with an RS Ltd lightened flywheel so hopefully it takes some abuse.
 

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get a 1.8 flywheel and take it to an engineering place to lighten it. under £100 all in.

then choose your 1.8 clutch - probably doesn't need to be paddle at under 200bhp unless you're drag racing it or clutch kicking for drifting. Meister on this forum does a little discount on competition clutch.

actually better to get the flywheel lightened and then balanced together with the clutch
 

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For what it's worth the clutch setup skinny uses is pretty good!
(because he copied mine
)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeh I was thinking about the balancing after having it skimmed. A guy i used years ago who was amazing has retired. In the back of my mind somewhere i'm sure i read about a company who can balance things in Doncaster (close to me) , can't remember their bloody name duh .
 

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1.8 flywheel needs a 1.8 clutch and that's a 1.6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeh I know that's a 1.6 kit
. I was asking if there any good as a kit. If people have had experience of them and if they are good. If they are I could save some messing around. If there no good then i'll go the 1.8 route.

Why is the Mx5 prone to judder with a paddle clutch ? I used to race an astra back in time it had a paddle clutch with standard clutch cover and never had judder. I also built a quick caterham for sprints with a paddle and it didn't suffer from judder. Maybe uprated engine mounts will calm the judder down. Sorry if i'm going over things that have probably been talked about before plenty of times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've gone for the 1.8 flywheel and had some material machined off the balance ring on the rear. After ringing around to get the fw balanced I was repeatedly told they can only do it on the crankshaft. The crankshaft is in my engine in my car.
So i've had a go myself. Machined a bar to fit through the spiggot bearing nice and snug. Then made up two straight edges to roll the fw and bar on. A bit like rail tracks. It's accurate enough to turn with the weight of a paper clip.

The whole thing rolls until the heaviest part is at the bottom, which you drill to lighten.

The paper clip will roll the fw.

I'll add the clutch cover and balance the whole thing again.
 

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Wouldn't fancy trying that myself, if it goes wrong it could go horribly wrong. A lot of places when they balance will also spin test as well. A spin test is a good way of checking you don't flywheel stuck in you at a later date.

If you don't mind posting I know a place in Biggin Hill that'll do it for you, they did mine with no trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm happy with the machine work to the rear of the flywheel, with only two thirds of the balance wheel being removed and nothing else. I'm sure the integrity of the flywheel has not been compromised by removing this. As for the balancing, Ok it's the old fashioned way but it's balanced better than the two standard flywheels i have sat on a shelf. I tried them both. The clutch cover also threw the balance out and needed a little work.

Your right though a high speed spin test is the only way to be 100% sure of the flywheel integrity.
 

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Clutch ACT every time - A
 
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