Hi all!
Let's start with a little talking (again! => I introduced myself and described the car here) in order to sum up what have been done, what will be done, and what would be done on the car.
I'll update this post every time there's a change to make it clearer, and I'll link any change to its related post with pictures and/or description of the work that has been done / the part that has been bought. I think proceeding as is would make the whole project easier to understand for anyone discovering it, even if it ends up filling 100 pages
.
So here is the promised list (I'll start posting pictures in the second post
):
Already done stuffs:
- Goodridge braided brake hoses (already fitted on the car when bought).
- Blue silicon Magnecor spark plugs leads (already fitted on the car when bought).
- NGK BKR6E spark plugs (now BKR5E).
- Change the fuel tank, with all that it implies on a 15 years-exposed-to-bad-weather-car.
- As it was disassembled from the car, take time to clean and rustproof the whole rear subframe assembly, and all the rear under part of the car.
- Change the rear cross member brake pipe by a genuine Mazda new one.
- Change all brake rotors and pads (oem rotors + EBC Ultimax).
- Change the whole suspensions for a complete D2 Racing gaz coilovers kit
- Change the front left lower wishbone (I've been literally assailed by a sidewalk edge two weeks after I've had bought the car
).
- Make a new ground cable from the battery.
- Total draining and cleaning of the cooling system (hot chocolate, anyone? The former engine broke due to head gasket failure, and seems the system haven't been cleaned properly), + a new thermostat and 7 new cooling hoses (Kevlar reinforced form Autolink. Radiator upper one totally burst, I was kinda in an emergency situation).
- Change the WHOLE brake piping from the ABS block to the wheels, by coper made to order tubes (f***ing expensive :x !! But no way I could pass on it, there was heavy corrosion on these and I don't really wanna die at 23) + new brake fluid (Ferodo DOT 4), then.
- Remove the stock air box to put this Pipercross induction kit.
- The cam cover gasket was leaking, then I change it and painted the cam cover. Also bought a nice aluminium oil filler cap (+ 10hp
).
- Fit the IL Motorsport brace bar.
- Change the oil pressure gauge and sender unit for the early "real" pre-1994 type ones.
=>You'll see pictures and descriptions of all that is described above, here, on the second post. All future modifications will be linked below if necessary.<=
- Fit the silenced cat bypass from Mx5Parts.
- Fit the ILM classic black wind blocker. Works really great
! But still I can't wait for the summer track days
!
- Remove the 1-ton-weighting stock tie down hooks for two racing tow hooks (few pics here).
Will be shortly done stuffs:
- Roll bar. I'd like a Harddog M2 Hardcore Hardtop double diagonal (ordered and paid).
- Fit a bucket seat (Sparco if I can find a cheap used one in good condition, or a RRS one) + a matching 4 or 6 points harness.
- Get a set of Bronze 15'x7' ET20 Rota Grid-Vs. Will probably be wrapped in Toyo T1R tires (195/50/15).
- Maybe use my MKII 14' alloys to put semi-slicks tires on it for the track days when my Dunlop Sport 01 are finished, but only if I have the money and a second driver to come with me to the track with the "assistance crews" Scénic
!
- Change the stock radiator for an aluminium big core and tank one (bought and received).
- EBC Turbogroove grooved and slotted front rotor, or those from Moss which are grooved and perfored, and EBC Red Stuff pads (unless I find a better quality/price rate, or really more efficients ones) to deeply file them
.
- Mx5Parts 4-2-1 stainless steel exhaust manifold.Already tested it anyone? Is it worst fitting?
- If a guy from Mx5 France can make it with his home made production project, I'll fit a Jackson Racing type CAI, but built in fiber.
- GV type front lip
.
- Find something to modify my console, in order to fit a voltmeter + an oil temp meter + a clock. I'd like to have something like that in full black, or like that if the first one's too expensive for me.
- Success in setting these damned rear caliper adjuster spindle, but I'm really desesperating about this
.
- Repair this rotten frame rail and use this occasion to make a full home made stiffening kit for it and its twin brother, just like they did here, but with regular rustproofed steel and welded on the châssis, instead of just bolting it on.
Would like to do stuffs:
- Rebuild the front braking system (full set of 4 pots calipers brakes, Wilwood or Brembo Max issued).
- Maybe an adjustable brake proportioning valve, like this one.
- If this doesn't fix the problem, find why the hell the car still slightly pulling to the left on non-ABS using hard braking
!
- A "real" on demand built 4-2-1 performance exhaust manifold (maybe one day...)
- Change the kevlar reinforced cooling hoses by blue silicon ones (
).
- If I have to change the clutch, I'll get a used fly wheel as well in order to have it slightly lightened.
- Change both cam shaft by performance ones.
- Maybe some wheelarch extensions (yeah, but I'd like to keep my mudguard, even if I have to cut part of them to make it fit
). Then I'll need hub extensions or wider wheels.
- I saw that on Mx5Parts... I guess it'd be a nice track days set of wheel later with R888 fitted on them
!
- Mx5Parts cat-back exhaust system.
- Change all motor and differential mounts by stiffer ones (Mx5Parts?). But considering my rear subframe and differential to PPF bolts condition, I'm affraid I'll have to change the whole thing if I want to do that
.
- Change or find how to totally renew all my wishbones, and change all the cracking old stock bushes for new ones.
- Get a racing steering wheel (stock one is almost bigger than the cockpit and I'm 6ft tall
!).
- If I fitted an adjustable brake proportioning valve, maybe I'll be considering changing the rear brake system too.
- In the eventuality my differential fails, why not getting a Torsen or a Quaife one?
- Supercharger? No, please, don't let me slip to the dark side of the force!
That's presently the last version of my project for this car.
Let's start with a little talking (again! => I introduced myself and described the car here) in order to sum up what have been done, what will be done, and what would be done on the car.
I'll update this post every time there's a change to make it clearer, and I'll link any change to its related post with pictures and/or description of the work that has been done / the part that has been bought. I think proceeding as is would make the whole project easier to understand for anyone discovering it, even if it ends up filling 100 pages

So here is the promised list (I'll start posting pictures in the second post

Already done stuffs:
- Goodridge braided brake hoses (already fitted on the car when bought).
- Blue silicon Magnecor spark plugs leads (already fitted on the car when bought).
- NGK BKR6E spark plugs (now BKR5E).
- Change the fuel tank, with all that it implies on a 15 years-exposed-to-bad-weather-car.
- As it was disassembled from the car, take time to clean and rustproof the whole rear subframe assembly, and all the rear under part of the car.
- Change the rear cross member brake pipe by a genuine Mazda new one.
- Change all brake rotors and pads (oem rotors + EBC Ultimax).
- Change the whole suspensions for a complete D2 Racing gaz coilovers kit
- Change the front left lower wishbone (I've been literally assailed by a sidewalk edge two weeks after I've had bought the car

- Make a new ground cable from the battery.
- Total draining and cleaning of the cooling system (hot chocolate, anyone? The former engine broke due to head gasket failure, and seems the system haven't been cleaned properly), + a new thermostat and 7 new cooling hoses (Kevlar reinforced form Autolink. Radiator upper one totally burst, I was kinda in an emergency situation).
- Change the WHOLE brake piping from the ABS block to the wheels, by coper made to order tubes (f***ing expensive :x !! But no way I could pass on it, there was heavy corrosion on these and I don't really wanna die at 23) + new brake fluid (Ferodo DOT 4), then.
- Remove the stock air box to put this Pipercross induction kit.
- The cam cover gasket was leaking, then I change it and painted the cam cover. Also bought a nice aluminium oil filler cap (+ 10hp

- Fit the IL Motorsport brace bar.
- Change the oil pressure gauge and sender unit for the early "real" pre-1994 type ones.
=>You'll see pictures and descriptions of all that is described above, here, on the second post. All future modifications will be linked below if necessary.<=
- Fit the silenced cat bypass from Mx5Parts.
- Fit the ILM classic black wind blocker. Works really great


- Remove the 1-ton-weighting stock tie down hooks for two racing tow hooks (few pics here).
Will be shortly done stuffs:
- Roll bar. I'd like a Harddog M2 Hardcore Hardtop double diagonal (ordered and paid).
- Fit a bucket seat (Sparco if I can find a cheap used one in good condition, or a RRS one) + a matching 4 or 6 points harness.
- Get a set of Bronze 15'x7' ET20 Rota Grid-Vs. Will probably be wrapped in Toyo T1R tires (195/50/15).
- Maybe use my MKII 14' alloys to put semi-slicks tires on it for the track days when my Dunlop Sport 01 are finished, but only if I have the money and a second driver to come with me to the track with the "assistance crews" Scénic

- Change the stock radiator for an aluminium big core and tank one (bought and received).
- EBC Turbogroove grooved and slotted front rotor, or those from Moss which are grooved and perfored, and EBC Red Stuff pads (unless I find a better quality/price rate, or really more efficients ones) to deeply file them

- Mx5Parts 4-2-1 stainless steel exhaust manifold.Already tested it anyone? Is it worst fitting?
- If a guy from Mx5 France can make it with his home made production project, I'll fit a Jackson Racing type CAI, but built in fiber.
- GV type front lip

- Find something to modify my console, in order to fit a voltmeter + an oil temp meter + a clock. I'd like to have something like that in full black, or like that if the first one's too expensive for me.
- Success in setting these damned rear caliper adjuster spindle, but I'm really desesperating about this

- Repair this rotten frame rail and use this occasion to make a full home made stiffening kit for it and its twin brother, just like they did here, but with regular rustproofed steel and welded on the châssis, instead of just bolting it on.
Would like to do stuffs:
- Rebuild the front braking system (full set of 4 pots calipers brakes, Wilwood or Brembo Max issued).
- Maybe an adjustable brake proportioning valve, like this one.
- If this doesn't fix the problem, find why the hell the car still slightly pulling to the left on non-ABS using hard braking

- A "real" on demand built 4-2-1 performance exhaust manifold (maybe one day...)
- Change the kevlar reinforced cooling hoses by blue silicon ones (

- If I have to change the clutch, I'll get a used fly wheel as well in order to have it slightly lightened.
- Change both cam shaft by performance ones.
- Maybe some wheelarch extensions (yeah, but I'd like to keep my mudguard, even if I have to cut part of them to make it fit

- I saw that on Mx5Parts... I guess it'd be a nice track days set of wheel later with R888 fitted on them

- Mx5Parts cat-back exhaust system.
- Change all motor and differential mounts by stiffer ones (Mx5Parts?). But considering my rear subframe and differential to PPF bolts condition, I'm affraid I'll have to change the whole thing if I want to do that

- Change or find how to totally renew all my wishbones, and change all the cracking old stock bushes for new ones.
- Get a racing steering wheel (stock one is almost bigger than the cockpit and I'm 6ft tall

- If I fitted an adjustable brake proportioning valve, maybe I'll be considering changing the rear brake system too.
- In the eventuality my differential fails, why not getting a Torsen or a Quaife one?
- Supercharger? No, please, don't let me slip to the dark side of the force!
That's presently the last version of my project for this car.