[markocosic]

Were there any differences in bodyshell on the mk1s?

Earliest mk1 1.6s vs the last of the mk1 1.8s - any changes?
Are UK shells any different to Japanese shells - rot aside?

I'd like to restore a 1.8 mk1 to as-new condition but am not fussed on originality. Don't mind doing the back end of the sills (provided that they haven't previously been repaired) but don't want to be repairing any rot or accident damage elsewhere. (under-floor rails included) If there weren't any changes in bodyshell that'll open my options.

(this is about as rotten as I'm prepared to consider, but even this level of general-underseam rust is bothersome)
http://www.cosic.org.uk/MarkoStuff/handamx5/white-mx5/IMG_0911.JPG
http://www.cosic.org.uk/MarkoStuff/handamx5/white-mx5/IMG_0916.JPG

How about between the mk1s and mk2s? Just the structural differences, rather than the cosmetic ones, that you might want to include/upgrade on a killer mk1 build?

This look to be a mk2 brace on the tunnel of this chap's mk1 shell? (in position on the bottom LH photo of the 2nd set of pics on the 2nd page)

http://keroyonn.com/goudabannkinnsann.htm
http://keroyonn.com/goudabannkinnsann-2.htm

 

[markocosic]

Incidentally, anybody know of UK bodyshops with that sort of jigging equipment?

 

[markocosic]

Adding to this as I'm finding more...

The dimension between the seatbelt bolts on the 1990 is 44-13/16" while the 1994 is 41-5/16"

>>Larger seatbelt towers in later mk1s? Do the 1.6s have more shoulder room/less side-impact protection?

http://www.miata.net/garage/compatibility.html

 

[Christof]

some additonal bracing on trans tunnel in corners etc. threre is an exploded diagram of addtional nb bracing in a miata book preview on google books (not rod grainger,possibly a tanner book)

definately buy a recent(ish) jap import if you are confident in mechanical knowledge, which i assume you are.

 

[markocosic]

some additonal bracing on trans tunnel in corners etc. threre is an exploded diagram of addtional nb bracing in a miata book preview on google books (not rod grainger,possibly a tanner book)

No joy at the minute, will get more creative with the search terms in the morning.

definately buy a recent(ish) jap import if you are confident in mechanical knowledge, which i assume you are.

A clean mk1 shell plus a mk2.5 that's been shunted/rolled and Cat C or Ded is sounding good at the minute. Get the BP-Z3 engine, perhaps a Torsen, and all the revised front subframe/steering geometry and 1.8 size brakes, all with less rot on them. Tidy the mk1 shell up and bolt up all the oily/boingy bits from the mk2.5 and that's be a cracker. Perhaps the ragtop too, if it isn't destroyed. De-spotweld and weld into the mk1 shell the relevant stiffening.

2003 that's beyond economic repair but would have all the bits, and only 16k on the clock too:
http://www.nicedeals.co.uk/salvaged.php/MAZDA/MAZDA_MX5/19300/1

1.6 shells do indeed have different belt towers, and apparently even the dashboard is lighter/squeakier.

 

[Christof]

thought it ws in this one, perhaps they cahnged the pages around
My link

printed it off at work so you might get lucky as i have a cheeky 'reading pile', but i might have chucked it and it was little pixelated from print screen

try looking at pics of shells for sale on ebay/autolink...

you might also want to create your own bracing as the nb stuff is still a bit 'driver' friendly and there is still the door opening 'hole' to contend with me thinks