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Well, after what seems like ages bedding in the new clutch and fully mapping the car we managed to end the week by putting our MK3.5 Turbo NC on the dyno.

For those that haven't been following our demonstrator thread in the 'Members Rides' section (http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=188537&hl=), here is the full Specification of the engine/components installed on the car that are relevant:

Engine:

Standard 2.0L MZR Engine (Turbo Kit can be fitted to a 2.5L Engine as well)

TDR Force 2 Turbo kit which includes the following:

Stainless V band connections throughout (there are no bolts or nuts to work loose with heat)

Garrett T28 Motorsport Turbo

Tial Stainless 0.86 Housing (http://www.tialsport...urbine-housings)

Tial MVS External Wastegate (http://www.tialsport...tegates/62-mvsx)

Tial Q or QR Blow Off Valve (http://www.tialsport...l-products/bovs)

Injector Dynamics 1000cc Fuel Injectors (http://injectordynam...jectors/id1000/)

3.5 inch MAF sensor Housing

Manual boost controller - boost is fully adjustable by the user from 6psi to 18psi

Stainless Down Pipe and Manifold

Lifetime warranty on Manifold **** ( Manifold will require inspection at 30K intervals - this involves the removal and crack testing of the item; just like a cambelt service! - cost is expected to be £150 + vat for this service)

Full ECU re-calibration - this is NOT just a re-map/flash but a full custom re-write of the Mazda control module allowing the variable boost without expensive re-maps for different stages of tune.

High Efficiency front mounted intercooler

Aeroquip fittings used throughout

This is the full Tuning Done Right kit from the USA that has been developed with Jay for the UK market; the feature we really think is a huge selling point over our competitors is the adjustable boost pressure - there is no requirement for expensive re-maps for different boost levels, the one tune does all of them!

Our engine is completely standard and there is currently a boost cut enabled at 14psi - the car will not run above this boost level. A fully forged engine could release up to 18psi!

Components_zpsell8j4ar.jpg

So, how did the car perform?

The below dyno plot shows the turbo car with the boost 'wound fully off' and running at wastegate pressure of 9psi (we can reduce this for customers by running a different external wastegate spring; the Tial External wastegate comes with several different springs in the kit)

9psi%20Run_zpsnrxfa865.jpg

Quite simply we were shocked by how good the dyno plot was!

The lines on the Dyno plot indicate:

(1) BLue = Power @ Hubs

(2) Green = Torque @ Hubs

(3) Orange = Boost Pressure.

It must be noted that these measurements are taken at the Hubs of the vehicle (will always be lower than a wheel figure on a roller dyno) and to convert them into a flywheel figure you would expect to see on a conservative roller dyno we multiply the Hub power figure by 1.3 & the torque figure by 1.18.

The estimated flywheel figures for this are:

292 BHP @ 6,000rpm

270 ft/lbs @ 4,000rpm

What was even better news was how the car produced these figures - spool was incredibly good with full boost from almost 3,500rpm and peak torque @ 4,000rpm with the torque curve showing a great spread across the rpm range of the engine.

Remember - this is the car operating at it's lowest level! Runing the boost at this level makes the car feel like a very powerful NA car and is 'very sweet' to drive.

Here is a dyno plot comparing the car to how it was as standard so the increase in performance can be seen, the standard car is the dotted line and produces a peak Hub HP figure of 120 HP:

9psi%20Vs%20Standard_zpsl3yx5ipd.jpg

Moving on..................

We turned the boost level up to the maximum the clutch would stand before it started to slip, and quite frankly, the results are extremely impressive!

Here is the Dyno Plot at circa 12psi:

12psi%20Run_zpsv2chgeyi.jpg

That is a Hub HP figure of 258hp and a torque figure of 259 ft/lbs!!

This equates to flywheel figures of:

Power = 335 bhp @ 6,000rpm

Torque = 304 ft/lbs @ 4,500rpm

..........but just look at how flat that torque curve is between 3,500rpm & 5,000rpm :thumb-up:

I have been using the car as a daily driver for the last 3 weeks and if I'm honest I find the car a bit 'brutal' at this level - I am not the most skilful driver in the world and I am frightened to use full throttle at 12psi of boost; yes the traction control helps etc but it is insanely quick and you certainly feel you a driving an extreme performance vehicle.

Richard, on the other hand keeps laughing at this level of power and states 'we've still got another 6psi of boost to try - lets forge an engine; Graham also loves it (maybe they just want me as a quivering wreck every time I go into BLiNK?).

Again, here is the Dyno Plot at 12psi compared to the standard car:

12psi%20Vs%20Standard_zpsmvvtyawn.jpg

The last Dyno Plot shows the 9psi run in comparison to the 12psi run:

12psi%20Vs%209psi_zpsq7ea4xvo.jpg

We would like to take this oportunity to thank Jay @ Tuning Done Right for developing this UK Spec. kit with us and providing an absolutely fantastic turbo conversion using the highest quality parts available on the market and an outstanding ECU re-callibration; we think the results speak for themselves.

We can offer the various kits supplied by TDR and we are just in the final stages of pricing with Jay.

HTH
 

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258 whp is impressive. You should only quote that. The conversion ratios, as you know, only raises questions.
But 258 whp on 12 psi on an unopened engine, great work!

(that said, the dynapac is known to show whp closer to mustang than to dynojet i.e. lower, but still).
Hi Niklas, firstly thanks for the very kind comments regarding the results, they are appreciated :thumb-up: - this is why we have put the comparison with the car as standard so people can actually see the massive increase in performance - trying to help people understand hub dyno's isn't easy.

(BTW wheel horse power is never comparable to Hub horsepower: wheel horse power gives a higher reading than hub horse power and should never be used unless the Dyno has no other output)
 

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Blink >> of course, it's a great result :)

Considering hub though, there is a wealth of information comparing them to dynojets, mustangs etc. and there is pretty consistent results.

It reads lower than dynojet, about the same as mustangs and other loaded dynos and used to have an initial over reading at the start of the pull.

But that is derailing and I'm sorry about that. The comparison is great, more than doubling the whp is, well, fun. (I know something about how that drives)

:thumb-up: :driving:
 

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Blink >> of course, it's a great result :)

Considering hub though, there is a wealth of information comparing them to dynojets, mustangs etc. and there is pretty consistent results.

It reads lower than dynojet, about the same as mustangs and other loaded dynos and used to have an initial over reading at the start of the pull.

But that is derailing and I'm sorry about that. The comparison is great, more than doubling the whp is, well, fun. (I know something about how that drives)

:thumb-up: :driving:
:thumb-up: :dance:
 

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That looks brilliant. Having just been doing some boost tuning in my mk1, I have a question.

You said it's a bit of an animal - not surprising with that massive slug of torque coming in over about 700rpm.

Some better control of the boost would make it much more linear - are you using anything other than changing the springs on the wastegate? I'm finding it much better to run quite a 'light' wastegate but using boost control to tune the feel of the car.

Just a thought though - I'm sure this won't be cheap but I bet it's flipping brilliant to drive.
 

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Interesting I've looked at the Force 2 and followed Jay's input a lot over on Miata.net. Didn't realise he had any one offering the Force 2 kit in the UK. It'll be interesting to see how expensive the kit works out at compared to the US pricing. :)
 

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That looks brilliant. Having just been doing some boost tuning in my mk1, I have a question.

You said it's a bit of an animal - not surprising with that massive slug of torque coming in over about 700rpm.

Some better control of the boost would make it much more linear - are you using anything other than changing the springs on the wastegate? I'm finding it much better to run quite a 'light' wastegate but using boost control to tune the feel of the car.

Just a thought though - I'm sure this won't be cheap but I bet it's flipping brilliant to drive.
Hi Simon,

probably didn't explain this very well in the initial post so I'll try again :thumb-up:

The MINIMUM boost is controlled by the external Tial wastegate spring and there are several in the kit; the customer can choose the minimum they wish to run, down to 6psi.

There is also a manual boost controller so you have a further range of adjustment without changing the waste gate spring.

The kit fitted to the car has the 9psi spring and to get the car to run higher we have just turned the knob on the manual boost controller.

I find the power delivery 'brutal' at 12psi but I am a crap driver!! The weather conditions are cold and damp and the car is currently on 'cast off' Nankang NS2R which I really don't like anyway - there is also no grip on the roads at present.

Richard, on the other hand loves the higher setting as does Graham, Richard is a pretty decent race driver and Graham is a drift boy who just spends his life looking out of the side windows instead of the windscreen (idiot!) - they have far more talent than me!

(Note to Richard & Graham - please turn down the boost control after you have used the car - I'm fed up of doing it myself :baseballbat: )

This is the big advantage of the TDR kit - the boost is fully adjustable with the 'turn of a knob' to suit mood, conditions or ability; there is no need for re-maps or waste gate spring adjustment.

HTH
 

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Fraser I wonder if they leave it turned up on purpose lol
 

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Hi new member here just subscribing to the thread and eagerly awaiting news of a price for your kit. I've been doing quite a bit of research since I'm new to mx5s and I assume a post Oct 08 2.0 I.e mk3.5 is the best base car to get for the improved valve gear and crank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi new member here just subscribing to the thread and eagerly awaiting news of a price for your kit. I've been doing quite a bit of research since I'm new to mx5s and I assume a post Oct 08 2.0 I.e mk3.5 is the best base car to get for the improved valve gear and crank?
The price for a drive in drive out instalation is very similar to a competitors; rather than post prices on the internet we would much rather people pay us a visit so they can experience the car in person and select from various options, there have bben a couple of people that have had test rides and their views are here (taken from our demonstratore thread):

Had a passenger ride in this turbo car today, it really is a fantastic car, felt planted on the road but still comfortable and not too harsh. Sounded like a stock nc almost until Richard gave it a bit of welly, then I was pinned to my seat.
I have some saving to do.
Gets on well this does! :thumb-up:

Suspension is lovely on the road, rides as well as my barge whilst no doubt having fantastic track ability.
Link to full thread:

http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=188537&page=1

HTH
 

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This thread, where I came from and where it takes me, Offer no £ signs.

I'm the third to ask. Third time lucky perhaps?
 

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What are the flywheel power/torque figures for the standard 2L engine (I presume 170bhp/140 lbs/ft)? It seems you have more than a 100% increase at less than 1 bar boost pressure. Are the conversion figures correct? Or are there some other mods releasing further torque, eg. the remap?
 

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Standard 2.0 nc's are 158hp and 188nm
 
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