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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

I have just signed up, having carried out some of my own research over the last few days.

I seem to have found the answer to most of my questions, though some still elude me and i'd like my research confirmed!

The car in question is a 1996 Mk1 Eunos Roadster 1.8 VR-Ltd.
  1. What is the size (diameter and thickness) of the standard 1.8 front disks? I believe they are 255mm dia but struggling to find width.
  2. Do these engines come with a baffled sump as standard? If not, is it a worth while thing to do? (car is being bought for track use and will also be fitted with "sticky" rubber).
  3. I understand the standard tyre size on the 15" rim is 195/50/15. I have some 195/45/15 track rubber at the moment which would be good if I could use. Does anyone have any pics of their cars fitted with 195/45/15 tyres? Not sure if it'll look odd or have some other detrimental effect.
  4. Oil - I have a fair bit of Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 fully synthetic oil (originally Silkolene). Will this be suitable for the engine? I read that 10w-40 is suggested but it's not definitive.
  5. What kind of brake fluid do they take? I have some DOT5.1 but knowing these are older cars now, would it be DOT4?
  6. Lastly, I have an OMP Corsica dished wheel i'd like to use on the Mazda. I presume that as long as I buy the correct boss, this won't be a problem? How easy is it to re-wire the horn? Does the car come with a driver's air bag?
Many thanks.
 

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As far as i know they dont have a baffled sump. I cant say my 1.6 has suffered from oil starvation on track but if you want to do it to be extra safe and have the money it couldnt hurt.

The 195/45/15 tyres wil be fine. As for looks wise i couldnt say as i run 14s atm.

They take either 5w-30 or 10w-30 from what i have read. 5w-40 should be fine as well, pretty sure its listed as an alternative.

Not 100% but think they will be dot 4. Only thing with going dot 5.1 is you might not notice much of a difference without upgrading the brake lines. But it wont be an issue to run it.

There should be a boss on the car already. Mine i just undid the original wheel and my corsica rep bolted straight on. So check that before shelling out for a boss that you might not need.

Someone with more knowledge will probably confirm/deny anything i have wrong but its correct as far as i know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your prompt response.

I do intend to upgrade the brake lines to braded items, along with fitting some Wilwood 4-pot calipers that I have spare, providing I can make a suitable carrier (hence question on OEM disc thickness / dia). Therefore should I go 5.1? (not familiar with all the ins and outs of the different fluids, assumed it was something to do with old rubber seal corrosion on brake items!)
 

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5W-40 fully synth will be fine, in fact I would suggest it would be an improvement over 10W-40 as it will meet the same normal operating temperature viscosity (still -40) but not be as viscous as the 10w at low temperatures. The Mk1 manual was written at a tme when fully synthetics (which most of the oils which offer 'low' winter grades are , e.g. 0w-, 5w-) were not readily available or prohibitively expensive, if the 0w-40 or 5w-40 fully synths were available 20 years ago I suggest it would probably be what Mazda would have specified.

Although some use a 5w30 in Mk1 / Mk2's I personally would not, especially for track work as it's a thinner viscosity at normal operating temperature (the -30 part versus -40). They are designed to offer less friction and hence better fuel economy in a modern engine with closer tolerances (eg Mk3).
 

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  1. Do these engines come with a baffled sump as standard? If not, is it a worth while thing to do? (car is being bought for track use and will also be fitted with "sticky" rubber). Baffled sump as standard (unlike my Integra where I had to get baffles fitted for the track)
  2. Oil - I have a fair bit of Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 fully synthetic oil (originally Silkolene). Will this be suitable for the engine? I read that 10w-40 is suggested but it's not definitive. Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 will be fine.
  3. What kind of brake fluid do they take? I have some DOT5.1 but knowing these are older cars now, would it be DOT4? I use ATE Super Blue - cheap and won't boil on a track day.
 

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5W-40 fully synth will be fine, in fact I would suggest it would be an improvement over 10W-40 as it will meet the same normal operating temperature viscosity (still -40) but not be as viscous as the 10w at low temperatures. The Mk1 manual was written at a tme when fully synthetics (which most of the oils which offer 'low' winter grades are , e.g. 0w-, 5w-) were not readily available or prohibitively expensive, if the 0w-40 or 5w-40 fully synths were available 20 years ago I suggest it would probably be what Mazda would have specified.

Although some use a 5w30 in Mk1 / Mk2's I personally would not, especially for track work as it's a thinner viscosity at normal operating temperature (the -30 part versus -40). They are designed to offer less friction and hence better fuel economy in a modern engine with closer tolerances (eg Mk3).
Great advice!
 

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I don't know if the VR-Ltd comes with a Nardi wheel or not - the spacing is slightly different between Nardi and Momo bosses.

Worse comes to the worse, you'll only need a new boss, and maybe a resistor if its got an airbag. Wiring the horn should be straightforward.
 

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No idea about the standard, the uprated ones all seem to be 20mm though..

If noone answers soon, I'll measure mine when I have the wheel off in a couple if days.
 

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  1. 255mm dia, 20mm thick (Mintex OEM replacement)
  2. Baffled sump as standard on all models (NA/NB. Unsure about NC but I'm assuming so)
  3. Tyres sizes. Unfortunately, they're not the same wheel with different tyres but different tyres on different wheels.
    195/50/15


    195/45/15

    The 45s will put the speedo a bit further out but it'll only be 1-2MPH @ 70 and you'll get marginally better acceleration out of them. Meh. If you have the tyres already, just use them.
  4. Not sure on the oil. I run Halford's 5W30 Semi Synth and she's not shit her bricks yet, although it may be a little thin. Still, it's what Halfords recommend.
  5. I have DOT5.1 (Halfords, again) in mine and it's been fine for track use (combined with Mintex 1144 pads)
  6. Wheel should be no problem at all.
 

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The only thing to be really worried about is the dreaded tin-worm.. look very carefully for any signs of repairs (and if there is, the standard of them) on both rear sills and rear wheel arches. If the car's a dry as a bone inside and it's sound you're laughing, the engines and gearboxes are totally bomb proof as standard.

Mk1's make great track cars for the price


You'll need to change the seats, I used to slip around like buggery on the track on my V-spec MK1 seats.. they're the same (except colour) as your model has.
 
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