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1.6 NB 1999
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Let's come back in present for a while.
Painted the valve cover. Wrinkle black what else...
Also changed the fuel lines. The old ones (3 years so not so old) had some minor cracks.
I used this time Codan SAE30 R6 fuel line which is to be ones of the best around. I would like R9 but out of stock....
The paint job took me 4 hours. I also removed the baffles inside to remove any dust derbies and re sealed them with hylomar blue.


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Nice job on the wrinkle black. I'd love to get mine done like that again but I'd want it a powdercoat type.

Is your PCV valve drilled out ?
 

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The PCV is in its original state.
Then it's doing nothing - not even letting gasses through. The PCV is both a restrictor and a one way valve. In the absence of a pressure difference between each side of the valve, it just restricts, there is no flow. Without a PCV in the oem setup, you end up sucking all the oil out the cam area, but you're not an oem setup any more since you have a filter.

In your case without the PCV hooked up to a manifold, but still installed, you could just remove the filter, it never sees any air to filter anyway. ( Your current setup vents 100% via the exhaust side - go ahead and check! )

I'd suggest.. replacing the PCV valve with a straight barb fitting made of metal. it'll be like 13mm->8mm but I suggest you measure, and then put the filter back on that.

Also.. If something 'lets go' and you see massive pressure in the crank case (and then cam area) you're going to end up venting oil out the breathers, and, if you have the breather filter above the wrapped exhaust, it's a slight fire hazard since the wrap is an excellent wicking material with loads of surface area, if oil starts squirting out the breather filter...

This is why some motorsport regs indicate to run 'large' 2L catch tanks. to try and contain the oil if something lets go.

In the absence of a catch tank I'd run a hose 'away' from the exhaust side.

Please forgive the unrequested analysis :)
 

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I've yet to do the correct overlap for my toda cams, but that hanger method with my dial indicator looks like just the ticket.
 

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1.6 NB 1999
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
If you cover shipping I can send you my degree wheel to fine tune the timing.
There are other methods practices as well that have to do with timing with the cylinder head on the block, with checker springs to get a clue of piston to valve piston clearance if you want to get a tighter LSA. Unfortunately this method doesn't provide radial clearance data.
It was a very tricky period when I assembled the engine miss the stress,anxiety and the nights in the garage with the dial gauge and the plasticine.
 

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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Good evening guys!
Hope you are all well!
I don't know if it's me but I am at the phase of having done almost anything that I wanted to do in the car.
So I have started experiments/money spending.
First move was to replace the Mazdaspeed competition engine mounts which left me more than happy. They withstand the Rotrex days and now the 8600 rpm limiter approximately 10000 miles. They are still in a good shape.
I always wondered how stiffer near solid engine mounts would match the rest of the car.
I bought the 95D AWR engine mounts.
The procedure is pretty easy.
2 points to watch out.
1)Match the angle of the AWR engine mounts as close to the originals.
2)The passengers on UK models (drivers on the EU models) side is to be swapped first . Why? Because on the subframe the position is fixed, on the other side there is a slot that makes alignment easy.
The AWR mounts are pretty different compared with the Innovative mounts. Not only on the adjustability of the Innovative mounts but also on the construction.
If you see the following picture you will get my point. The bushing is fixed on the plate on the first ones the opposite on the AWR 's...
Bicycle part Bumper Auto part Bicycle drivetrain part Font




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How they perform?
Well installed them among other goodies and was a mess full of grease and dirt so I left the car undriven. I only started it and sat on the door sill, OK pretty aggressive on start up and warm up enrichment when the idle is high.
2 weeks later I went to drive it and I forgot about the swap and boy I though that something is wrong!!!
The NVH is pretty high at idle, goes away while driving etc etc...
What made me the most awkward impression is that the engine doesn't goes to target idle as fast as it used to, during coasting /overrun . It's like holding rpms for more time.... It's planted, solid which is understood but the thing with the revs make me wonder why?
Not something that bothers me, its a toy car.
The shifts are damn crisp.

Also I bought a proper catch can, the proper hoses for the job and I am planning the second valve cover for painting, drilling etc.

And the most important thing I just bought a set of itbs from ae111 45mm throttle bodies to see if I can break the 200bhp still N/A.

They are getting harder to find and the prices have gone to the moon compared few or more years back.
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This winter will be a very busy and interesting winter.
Good night!
 

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Well, the 4AGE 20V setups are the king of JDM ITB setups, whatever ancillary setup you do I'm sure it will be wicked good :)

I had a go adding a bit more overlap (4 degrees from each cam) but didn't have a good enough base for the gauge to get repeatable results for what I actually wanted (26 degrees at 1mm). but I'm on stock-ish compression/deck so no stress of touching.

Without doubt the ITBs will bring your engine to life.
 
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