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1.6 NB 1999
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yes I know that,many people have swapped their 1.6 for the 1.8vvt simple way to add power.
Would like to have one as a spare but the import taxes are making things harder.

Does not matter I will get the 1.6 that are collecting dust locally. :)
 

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Hiding from the Ayatollah or making Full Metal Jac
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1,753 Posts
As I troll repeatedly on insta.. B6ZE Swap it Bro! :)

I'm a big fan of the 1.6 sensation. It's the OG engine.

Those are big-ass cams. I got the TODA 272/9mm lift in and out ones and they barely fit without needing to scallop the bucket entrances (1mm clearance?) :D. Installed those myself along with the supertech single / TI retainer kit and mazdaspeed solid buckets.

My next step if I go there, is to go into the block and try to get the compression up.

re: ITBs, if you don't want to wait for Nils and the 4AGE, the Jenvey kit is good.
 
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Hiding from the Ayatollah or making Full Metal Jac
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No insta, no FB just a mobile phone and email.
Respectable position. I've pulled insta off my phone as it's such a brainwaster. No FB. :D
 
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1.6 NB 1999
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Having gathered all the pieces with lots of custom charges /taxes blood, sweat and tear I started assembling the engine.
The trick was the camshaft timing as things where really tight and the engine was the definition of an interference engine.
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The space on the follower is just not enough. A hanger with the appropriate die kit was enough to get some solid readings on the clock.
Clay was used for the imprint.
I used the LTDC method on the exhaust stroke where overlap occurs.
 

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Registered
1.6 NB 1999
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
A timing degree wheel was also used to verify the settings.
This method Lift at TDC is widely used suggested and proven to be pretty accurate.
David Andrews at DVA Power has a great write up among other stuff on his very informative site.
The first difficulty was timing and the second most difficult thing was the installation of ATI Damper. This thing just doesn't want to move.
According to my machinist readings ATI bore was just in the upper limit of crank snout diameter.
So I heated things up, used a laser gun to track temps and applied plenty of copper grease. I was afraid the procedure because I have seen some of them going bad, threads shutter, don't line up or don't bottom up etc...
Everything went smoothly though and I was very excited about that!
The competition ratio is a bit low for an N/A engine but I wouldn't like to have the Rotrex with a 12.5 :1 engine... I have regret that decision.
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1.6 NB 1999
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Upon assembly I used Torco lube. I knew that the engine would sat in nylon bags until other stuff would show up. It might gives better resistance against oxidation? but lacks the feel of pure engine oil. It's very vital to have a good feel when the engine is fully torqued to see its behaviour. Assembly lube its sticky, thick and does not give a good feel while turning the engine by hand. Have that in mind and don't panic if you have measured everything correctly.
While waiting for goodies to arrive I polished the Maxim Works header and wrapped it using DEI's wrap.
The polish took me 16 hours, yes 16 hours. Changed the flex pipe and welded a bung for my EGT sensor.
The rest of the piece is a catalytic converter and a resonator, both of them from Magnaflow.
The tone is deep
but I love it.
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1.6 NB 1999
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Next big task for me was the ECU Harness Adapter... Well I lost my vision while doing so.
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I watched webinars from HPA studied the OEM pin out in case reverting the car back to stock Wouldn't like to chop the OEM harness neither I wanted a plug n play unit.
The ECU is a Vipec i88 wire in ECU that can handle everything that drives, flies, sails etc...
Impressive unit, spot on community and engineers to help and sort things out.
Crimping with the right tools is vital and the tools cost if they are the good ones(Delphi, Hozan etc) and not Chinese rubbish . I used a mix of Tefzel/Mil spec wire and a Brady label machine.
The board I used is from DIY Autotune.
 

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Hiding from the Ayatollah or making Full Metal Jac
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1,753 Posts
you not ditching the oil squirters ?
 

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Hiding from the Ayatollah or making Full Metal Jac
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I'll be impressed to see how the Maxim flows. I suspect it may be a limiting factor in your build.
 

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1.6 NB 1999
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
you not ditching the oil squirters ?
Nope. Have kept them to help cool things down and lubricate the piston pins. Thought it was a good idea to keep them due to high revving. Many blocks use them like Hondas. Apart from that I have a steady 80psi oil pressure when the engine is cold at idle.When the engine is hot at idle the pressure goes down to 40 psi. At WOT with the engine hot it climbs back to 80 psi.
Boundary stage 2 oil pump,high volume.
 

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layabout
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you not ditching the oil squirters ?
always amuses me to see this sort of question, under-pistin oil-sprays are something worth adding (if not already fitted) - even on na engines;)

luckily Mazda specified the mk1&2 engines with them:cool:

I'm actually considering fitting some to my Vauxhall at rebuild time...

Rich.
 
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