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Can you get a pry bar in there see if movement.. and pry all others... or handbrake on engage clutch to take up drive dip on off with and assistant to see if engine lifting?

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@Markbcars
Eunos Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #503 ·
So I did more investigation, car up in the air with myself under it. A helper sat in the car, 1st gear, quickly engaging and disengaging the clutch.. Metallic banging/knocking noise every time clutch engaged.

While under the car, I followed the noise and although quite hard to pin down, it seems to be toward the gearbox/front of prop area. A knocking, metal on metal, I'll try and get the video here shortly. What I was surprised to see, was the PPF flexing and I think it is the PPF knocking the box, the video does make it seem like the proper is hitting the box but I have enough space to gets fingers in between so it isn't flexing that much and there are not contact marks.

The diff remains solid, doesn't move but the engine has some movement. Not a lot but it does move/shake a few mm when engaging clutch which I think is transferring to the ppf and making it bow/wobble. I didn't get around to removing the mounts as it got too late/dark but my suspicions are that they may be too soft/broken for the IL motorsport diff mounts. Perhaps the mounts deformed/broke while I had the car sitting on stands for over a year with the engine pivoted back while the ppf wasn't fitted.

I was also thinking, maybe the ppf is bent but it does bolt in place perfectly fine, I had no issue fitting the 5 bolts and I even removed and refitted them last night.

When going for a drive later, if I applied heavy throttle and then let off, there was slack, the uptake isn't quite immediate, as if the drivetrain has to take up the slack and then it goes, same goes for when I let off at high rpm's, there is a wobble in the drivetrain and you feel the car settle as it wobbles back and forth, almost like it had suspension from a 7 series Tailgate McNoIndicate but this isn't suspension related.

So I am left trying to think logically here, the ppf is bridging the diff and the engine, the diff remains still but the engine has some movement, minor but it does move like an engine does, when you rev it or engage clutch. I think that movement is wobbling the ppf.

Or is the input shaft of the drive shaft bent and causing a vibration through the gearbox/ppf..

I just don't know, so I'm hoping this info may help generate some ideas..

Help!


 

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@Markbcars
Eunos Turbo
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858 Posts
Discussion Starter · #505 ·
Yeah, I really had to question myself and look for something to be loose or missing but it all seems correct.

All PPF bolts were loosened and re-tightened, PPF aligned to 65mm, all shaft nut/bolts were good. I can only think that the engine mounts are shot, I need to remove them to look. Keep in mind, that flex is going on with NO load on the rear wheels, just being a bit aggressive with clutch engagement. There are only 4 suspension points for the PPF essentially, so it's got to be a failing with 1 or 2 and it's definitely not the diff mounts as that thing had super minimal movement when this was all going on.

I really need to solve this, there is no way I can live with it.
 

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Watch vids a few times...none the wiser.. think engine mounts need checking/ ruling out.

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@Markbcars
Eunos Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #508 ·
Quick update, wedged pieces of a chopped up exhaust hanger around the drivers side mount, went for a drive and the vibration was noticably LESS, as the drive went on, when pulling away, vibration was back.. Got home, checked and bits of the rubber I stuffed in, had come out, so I'm pretty certain thats it! Will remove the mount to double check but gonna replace for some other style of mounts I've seen made by Direnza.

 

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@Markbcars
Eunos Turbo
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858 Posts
Discussion Starter · #511 ·
Sorted the vibration!

Mazda Speed mounts had clearly gone soft, new mounts in, no issue but now I have MEGA NVH, So I'm going to swap them again as the NVH is just not for my car, vibrating it to death! Fine for a track car but not for using to pop into the office or go to the shops, just horrible. I cant even hear the engine/exhaust, it's that bad!
On the flip side, ignoring the vibration and noise, it feels amazing!! Power is clearly going straight to the wheels, no slop, gearshift is solid and shifts feel better due to no movement, it feels like the car has a sport mode button that has been enabled, really good! So now I just need to find a set of mounts that offer a balance. I'm not getting rubber ones again as they clearly won't last.



A shame as they're great pieces of kit! If anyone wants to buy them, let me know.

Also changed headlight bulb rubbers, mine were perished.



So new mounts, maybe engine damper..

Duraflex road mounts, 70a are looking like favourites atm. A bit basic looking but as long as they do the job.
 

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layabout
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2,482 Posts
I came across a dream gadget!


Anyone run one of these?! I love stuff like this!
too small, you'll need a magnifying glass on the cluster to read:geek:

Duraflex road mounts, 70a are looking like favourites atm. A bit basic looking but as long as they do the job.
why not standard Mazda items, will last longer than poly with better manners....

polywhatsit doesnt like heat & oils....

Rich.
 

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@Markbcars
Eunos Turbo
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858 Posts
Discussion Starter · #514 ·
Hi Zed,

The Mazda Speed ones are supposed to be 40% stiffer than OEM ones and I killed those, so OEM softies won't last long.. I was also wondering if the downpipe has played a part at weakening the mount on that side, it does get RED hot after I've been out for a thrash, I may need to make some sort of heatsheild on that side, esepcially as you mention, they dont like heat (poly)

cheers

Never heard or seen polytorq before! Looks like they only offer 70a which is what I was going to try with the duraflex but a few pints cheaper.

When you car is idling, does the bonnet vibrate and do you hear the rumble (vibration) of the engine inside the car as everything rattles? The mazda speed ones were great up until the slow fade failure, if you could block the noise of the car out, you could sit in the car and not know it's on.. I am tempted to get them again and just treat like consumables but I think I'll get these polytorq/duraflex type mounts a try for the sake of the cost and 2 hours of my time.

Cheers!
 

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Never heard or seen polytorq before! Looks like they only offer 70a which is what I was going to try with the duraflex but a few pints cheaper.

When you car is idling, does the bonnet vibrate and do you hear the rumble (vibration) of the engine inside the car as everything rattles? The mazda speed ones were great up until the slow fade failure, if you could block the noise of the car out, you could sit in the car and not know it's on.. I am tempted to get them again and just treat like consumables but I think I'll get these polytorq/duraflex type mounts a try for the sake of the cost and 2 hours of my time.

Cheers!
Yeah a bit cheaper, I was sceptical at first but seem all good, have lasted fine for two years on mine - admittedly not turbo'd but lots of launches and hard driving.

As you say looks like it is just 70a they offer so must be what I have. My bonnet does vibrate on idle at times, mostly on a cold start.

Maybe another option for you would be an engine damper with the mazdaspeed mounts heat wrapped/protected?
 

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@Markbcars
Eunos Turbo
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858 Posts
Discussion Starter · #516 ·
Cheers!

Mounts arrived today, will give them a go as they are, if problem returns, I'll get add a damper just to experiment, I'm sure a damper will add the lifetime of engine mounts so may be a good idea anyway, just need to make one fit.. The issue is seen just engaging the clutch without any power, so the mazdaspeed mounts must have failed internally or something, was never like that when i first fitted them but did gradually develop. There is a very mild vibration with these solid Direnza mounts but i think that could just be the nature of the clutch grabbing... Mounts will get fitted next week. Can't knock them for £35 inc post!!

Started something I've put off for a while, I've got a large roll of genuine alcantara and I've wanted to trim the dash and other bits for a while, so I started on a door card and after 2 hours,ended up with a great result. Will do the other door tonight and dash/a pillars over the weekend!









I've chosen not to do the top of the door card as it's a touch point and over time, I've seen alcantara go pretty horrible from sweaty arms and daily touching. I'll see how it looks but it just means I won't trim the crash bar as it would look odd to trim that and not the top of the door card. We'll see!
 

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@Markbcars
Eunos Turbo
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858 Posts
Discussion Starter · #518 ·
Engine in,

Car was up on small ramps which allow me to get a jack under the engine, use a bit of wood to spread the load, jack engine up a little bit, undo the engine mount bolts from the subframe at either end, 13mm i think..

Then I turned the steering and used a long extension and gun to remove the mounts from the engine, both side..

Then did the reverse, 1 hour job. Turbo downpipe got in my way a bit but totally managable.

I didn't remove the wheels or have to get under the car, all done from the wheel arch.
 

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Hiding from the Ayatollah or making Full Metal Jac
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The magic of Mazda making a car you can work on :)
 
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