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Looking good Mark! Glad you are still enjoying it. Had a similar noise on one of my old 5s. I always put it down to the diff, but bent the car before I fixed it ????. You changed the diff oil?
 

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@Markbcars
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Discussion Starter · #462 ·
This whole post has been a real roller coaster. I have just joined this forum on the basis of reading this from start to finish. Having owned a standard Eunos Roadster for the last 11 years, (and it will be staying that way), but always interested in what others are doing, if I were to have changed my little car, I would have emulated yours.

What a fantastic looking car, great stance and beautifully looked after. Nothing over the top. Built to do a job and do it well. I'm really pleased you persevered with it after the trouble you had and I have nothing but admiration for anyone who can do this sort of work themselves!

I'm looking forward to your future posts.

And I agree, it's the little things...

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Thank you!! Very kind of you.

It has been something that has just evolved, I never really planned to do what I did but bit by bit I just felt I could make some slight improvements. To be honest, I didn't need to turbo the car, I do miss the standard power plant for what it offered, you could really enjoy the balance of the car with just 130bhp, I think if i were to do it again, I would do throttle bodies, 160/170 would be perfect for the road. The turbo is great fun, it is a yob but you have to be careful of your speed now and it tends to egg you on to go faster. I do miss revving out the standard engine and still being on the right side of the law, however, it is a good package, I am holding back for the minute but if anything need, some supportive seats and a paint job would finish it off. Perhaps the OEM 15" MX5 BBS wheels too, here we go..

Looking good Mark! Glad you are still enjoying it. Had a similar noise on one of my old 5s. I always put it down to the diff, but bent the car before I fixed it ????. You changed the diff oil?
Cheers Woody! I think it is the diff, it's also just over 3k rpm and I feel I can also now here it when applying light throttle, I will try dropping the fluid and replacing it with something better just to see, otherwise, I've been under there now and everything is solid so it must be internal... The sound comes up through the car behind the seats, I think it can be heard outside too. Really bugging me!
 

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@Markbcars
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783 Posts
Discussion Starter · #463 ·
My stage 3 competition clutch is slipping on boost!

Really pissed off as I did not expect a "stage 3" clutch to last only 7000 miles!!!!!

Going to have to drop the box and see what's wrong, I just can't imagine how the clutch would have only lasted so few miles, I am hoping to see a glazed flywheel but if the clutch plates are fucked, I'll be seriously unimpressed!

The slipping is inconsistent, sometimes it picks up fine, others, it will slip. No pattern to it being hot or cold.
 

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layabout
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My stage 3 competition clutch is slipping on boost!

Really pissed off as I did not expect a "stage 3" clutch to last only 7000 miles!!!!!

Going to have to drop the box and see what's wrong, I just can't imagine how the clutch would have only lasted so few miles, I am hoping to see a glazed flywheel but if the clutch plates are fucked, I'll be seriously unimpressed!

The slipping is inconsistent, sometimes it picks up fine, others, it will slip. No pattern to it being hot or cold.
Oil contamination?

probably burnt the pressure-plate & flywheel faces :blink:

Rich.
 

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@Markbcars
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783 Posts
Discussion Starter · #465 ·
I don't think it's oil, no sign anyway unless it doesn't have a little drain hole, can't remember.

Needless to say, car is going to come off the road and I'll drop the box to inspect. I'll buy a lightweight flywheel while I'm at it and HOPEFULLY I don't need to replace the clutch kit so soon but let's see. It is just odd that it doesn't slip everytime.

Last night, I went out to get fuel, put my foot down in 3rd and it slipped, released the clutch, came back to the speed I was at prior to putting my foot down, put my foot down and this time, it hooked!

Hopefully it's a glazed flywheel, maybe sitting for so long, it had crap on it (rust, mould) although I imagine this would just come off. Weak pressure plate perhaps, I dont know. I just need to look really, can guess what it could be all day long but it doesn't help. It is just odd that it is inconsistent and only seems to have occurred after leaving the car for a few months.
 

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My shogun does this if left for abit...after a few drives its fine..ive thought its rust on the input shaft splines hanging the friction plate up so not fully clamping. Its always after a period of no use. Then its fine.

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@Markbcars
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Discussion Starter · #467 ·
Thats interesting...

Thing is, it didn't slip straight away, it was driving fine although I did feel like the bite point was high but I put this down to being used to other cars. Since coming out again, the car has probably covered 600 miles, 80% commuting in traffic 5 miles each way. the other 20% general running about in the evenings... So I'd expect any crap to be long gone..
 

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Mmmm.shoguns usually fine within 50 miles and the clutch is superlight so doesnt fit with comp stage 3...
Ive got a stage 3 exedy in my fd its a fierce mofo...never slipped and left for quite long periods like all winter and always been fine.
What make of clutch?

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Only other thing i can think of is bent clutch fork as stage 3 more force bent abit not allowing fully clamp...only way to see that is open bleed on slave and see if fork moves in with slave piston...
A bleed of slave wouldnt take long and easy todo as "maybe" b4 stripping out gb..?

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@Markbcars
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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
Its a Competition Clutch, Stage 3. That's the actual brand name.

I bled the slave on Monday, no bubbles and it has fully returned home when pedal is at rest point. I can wiggle the fork a small amount to show that it isn't under any tension either. Had hopes for something simple like that.
 

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Cool..youve done what i would do..fork rattle good then fully clamped not being held off by slave...soz cant be any further help competition clutch good rep..

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@Markbcars
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Yeah, I thought they had a good rep but now I've looked in to this, there are a lot of people with problems. I just can't see why mine is failing after so few miles. it slipping without much effort now so the car is gonna come off the road until I get some time to sort it. Want to do a few other bits, one of my rodders pads is rattley under light brake pressure which annoys me so need to check if my clips are in place.

New bits on the list for winter sort out;

  • New clutch
  • Lightweight flywheel although many say don't bother with a turbo..
  • Aluminium radiator. My stock rad has been fine but I think it's about time I upgrade it, I will research 42 and 50mm cores but I think 42 seems the better option for me. I don't want it taking longer to warm up in the mornings and my stock one has been perfectly fine all round and that is waffer thin!
  • Windscreen lower cowl
  • Window scraper trims
  • Full fluid change, diff, engine and obviously the gearbox.
 

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Happily expanding the To Do list since 1997
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10,523 Posts
A bigger rad shouldn't affect warmup time as the thermostat won't open until it gets into the mid-high 80s °C.

I'm a fan* of stock radiators. Big aftermarket ones make complete sense for people who spend a long time going sideways at high power but others do seem to have got the idea stock is crap because they only last 20-30 years. I worry that there may soon be a spate of cheap random-brand Chinese alloy rads failing after 10 years.

*Unintended, but I see what I did there.
 

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@Markbcars
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783 Posts
Discussion Starter · #474 ·
Well, this car has been testing each and every part through the years, this time around, it's the diff!

I think this may well be the reason behind the odd clutch feeling/behaviour. Sometimes it feels like I have extreme clutch slips, othertimes, fine! I suspect the shaft is on the limit of biting into the joint. When the diff torques up, it lifts up and the shaft has enough engagement to drive.

I think with these diff, when one side has no drive, the other side loses it.. Certainly was the case on another car of mine when I broke a CV joint.

Anyway, I need a new diff casing please! Anyone?!

49163267837_6d2134cd2e_c.jpg


49163028501_6da2d4a66d_c.jpg
 

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@Markbcars
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783 Posts
Yet to sort this, I suspect my clutch is still an issue.. I can engage 1st gear while holding my brakes on and the car doesn't stall, can hear a rubbing noise, so looks like I'll have to sort the diff and still drop the gearbox!! If the diff was the issue, when I get the clutch to slip while the car is moving, i would expect the speedo to fly up with the revs but the speed doesn't increase so I think the clutch is slipping for whatever reason.

Oddly, I still get all of the usual behaviour from when the clutch was working fine, the occasional judder (especially when warm or reversing while turning). The bite point is where it also was. The slipping just got very bad VERY quickly. No bad noises, nothing.

FFS!!!!!!!!!!! Time isn't on my side so god knows when I will sort all of this.
 

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Banish a little rust a day people
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Hmmm, I would now agree its the clutch, that it's got so bad so quickly might be due to an oil leak from the rear main seal, especially given its low mileage
 

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@Markbcars
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783 Posts
Discussion Starter · #477 ·
49334260467_5895154731_c.jpg


I finally got around to working on mine today and found this...

49334258092_329869da70_c.jpg


But i got a casing to replace with IL motorsport bushes, looking for someone to weld it up

49334032896_768be78f56_c.jpg


New seals ready for it

49334256277_07cf45e52f_c.jpg


49333575098_62f129a5ee_c.jpg


Standard flywheel
CC friction and pressure plate

About 6500 miles in 2 years 4 months since fitting.

Flywheel has a clear groove

pressure plate is as grooved

friction plate, kinda glazed but maybe salvageable but not for my car, clearly.

49333572723_dc2eeab8cc_c.jpg


49334259802_7e60084cd1_c.jpg


49334035751_fcfd03c0a1_c.jpg


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49333570018_3424a8d0d6_c.jpg


I am surprised to see everything in tact, given how quick the symptoms i had came on.. I expected a broken pressure plate.

So, full new clutch kit and lightweight flywheel it is...

G19, Happy Meal, Skuzzle or RTS...................................................
 

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layabout
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2,261 Posts
So, full new clutch kit and lightweight flywheel it is...

G19, Happy Meal, Skuzzle or RTS...................................................
contact Helix https://helixautosport.com/ and have a chat with them, have a good reputation in motorsport :thumb-up:

I believe @Dickie has one of their clutches in his car & I've bought their 'Organic' multiplate discs to try in my car :driving:

Rich.
 

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@Markbcars
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783 Posts
Discussion Starter · #480 ·
So, full new clutch kit and lightweight flywheel it is...

G19, Happy Meal, Skuzzle or RTS...................................................
contact Helix https://helixautosport.com/ and have a chat with them, have a good reputation in motorsport :thumb-up:

I believe @Dickie has one of their clutches in his car & I've bought their 'Organic' multiplate discs to try in my car :driving:

Rich.
Thanks, i will do!

That has seen some heat! Doesn't look like it has the clamping load/friction for your torque (despite being rated for it). Not good to see after only 6500miles
Yeah, pretty pissed! Not even going to try and complain to Comp Clutch as I've heard they are very difficult.
 
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