[Zed.]

time for another slight thought / tangent / squirrels moment.....

curiosity got me...

the bellhousing photographed is from a mk2 6 speed gearbox, one I'd earlier (last year probably?) fiddled with and was looking into converting to run the Vauxhall engine.

one minor issue I have in using the Mazda box is that it's suited to the Mazda engine and ttherefore has a 'short' input shaft :|

the Mx5 6speed box is supposedly identical design as that used in several other cars like the Rx8, Lexus is200 and Subaroo brz / gt86 so LoGiC says get hold of one of these gearboxes to maybe hybrid-build (or in the case of the Rx8 gearbox, theres a whole catalogue of adapter-plates available to fit many different engines).

so,I have an Rx8 gearbox with Vauxhall adapter-plate to collect so can investigate that BUT some Google-Fu finds plenty of information - Turbosport forum have a good thread.

rx8 gearbox?

I read this post... http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=455751 Any one tried an rx8 6 speed? Seems the answer ! ?

www.turbosport.co.uk

especially post 882.

rx8 gearbox? - Page 23

I read this post... http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=455751 Any one tried an rx8 6 speed? Seems the answer ! ?

www.turbosport.co.uk

After more digging I found this:


Length of bell housing to first split - 270
Length of bell housing to second split - 465
Length from bell housing frint to shifter - 740
Total length - 850
Width just after slave cylinder - approx 280-300
Width at mid section - 220
Height at mid section - 240, 100 above output shaft centreline

so, back to the photo @ the start of this post....

so 233mm

and the info above gives the Rx8 box = Length of bell housing to first split - 270.

so, hybrid time, so, Rx input shaft with Mx5 bellhousing has the. clutch-splines and 'spiggot' outside the bellhousing's engine face (by 37mm?) so an adapter-plate can be used...

Alternatively the Rx8 gearbox can be hybridized with the Mx5 tailhousing & maybe mainshaft to fit the Mx5's ppf while allowing the Vauxhall engine to fit the Rx gearbox with an off-the-shelf adapter?

so, no actual progress but wobbling in the right direction hopefully...

here endeth the days waffle 🤣🤣🤣

Rich.

 

[Zed.]

another thought....

using the Rx8 input shaft with the Mx5 bellhousing & a home-made adapter-plate would allow use of standard Mx5 clutch slave cyllinder & fork setup...


Rich.

 

[boosted]

What i do know.
The rx8 5speed is 1 tough gearbox. Can take big power circa 500bhp for quite awhile with no failure.
The 6 speed is weaker and has known synchro issues. Needs the right gearbox oil for sustain use without annoying synchro issues. Mt90 used tobe the goto oil but id have to check the forums for upto date info.

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk

 

[Zed.]

okey, engine loom has landed 😎

pointless adding photo's as its a black heatschrink coated spaghetti spider....

connections as labled (for records)

'Ecu' / cabin end.

Ecu plugs x2.

main battery power (+ve).

main battery earth (-ve).

relay block x4 (3 poulated -main power / fuel pump / rad fan & a 'spare' needing output adding if chosen? - possibly used for Wb02 sensor 'heater' power as will save constant activation & early burn-out of sensor).

'Comms' (4 wire plug, guessing for the 'Canbus' stream? will verify wire colours / ecu plug pinout later).

Radiator fan activator (2 wires).

Dashboard outputs (Tachometer trigger & Shiftlight).

Wheel speed (6 wires to plug, will varify loom colours to ecu plug later but iirc theres +ve, -ve and 4 sensors).

dashboard / ecu control switch wiring.

'start switch' - startermotor activator with feed through loom to connect onto the startermotor (*)

'ignition switch' - on/off switch to energise main ecu power relay etc.

'traction on/off' - does what it says?

'traction wet/dry' - again, obvious (ecu has differing / programmable traction 'maps').

'traction 'pot' ' - 3 wire to add an adjustable resistor / 'potentiometer' for altering the tc severity on the fly.

'launch control' - for quick getaways?


'engine' end.


'startermotor' (trigger & 'earth').

'fuel pump' (trigger & earth).


'crankshaft sensor' (2 wire, I'll be converting to a 3 wire sensor and hopefully this wire is 'screened').

'map sensor' (3 wire, looks to suit a 'GM' type sensor).


'Aux' (6 wire, will check ecu plug connections to identify).


'gear position sensor' (3 wire).

'turbo valve' (2 wire jpt connector - will possibly re-purpose?).


'cam sensor' (2 wire).

'coil 1' (2 wire denso cop type).

'coil 2' (2 wire denso cop type).

'coil 3' (2 wire denso cop type).

'coil 4' (2 wire denso cop type).


'coolant temp' (2 wire).

'injector 1' (2 wire jpt plug).

'injector 2' (2 wire jpt plug).

'injector 3' (2 wire jpt plug).

'injector 4' (2 wire jpt plug).


'Injectors' (6 wire 'Sureseal' connector feeding 4 x 2 wire 'JPT' connectors - these are po).

'injector 5' (2 wire jpt plug).

'injector 6' (2 wire jpt plug).

'injector 7' (2 wire jpt plug).

'injector 8' (2 wire jpt plug).


so, in conclusion, most enoigh to run the engine - some alterations to be done but nothing complicated 😎

Rich.

 

[Zed.]

okey, reserch reserched....

I would like to use the 5's abs sensors to supply signals for traction-control, easy you'd think

some reading on the DTA forums

www.dtaforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2142

highlights a minor issue in that the abs sensors are 'VR' whereas the ecu wants a 'Hall-effect' generated (square wave?) signal 😐

so, it turns out that theres an oem solution - a 'relay' made by Siemens, a PA6.6-GF25 signal conditioner from a Vauxhall Astra mk4.

would need one for each sensor so 4 to complete the circuits...

wiring details found on supertthheaven.

www.super7thheaven.co.uk/corsa-epas-power-steering-kit-car/

also usefull info on connecting the Corsa Eps column to run wit actual vehicle speed input to set steering assistance (as per oem fitment!)

so, some progress made 😎


just need to find 4 of those 'relays' now

Next.

Rich.

 

[9K Miata]

Happy New year first of all.
On rwd cars the set up is as follows, one sensor on the drive shaft axle and one sensor in the front what ever side you like(if you don't lift a front wheel)
You can use any sensor from the market that is compatible with the ecu.

 

[Zed.]

Happy New year first of all

Thankyou & the same to you 😎

On rwd cars the set up is as follows, one sensor on the drive shaft axle and one sensor in the front what ever side you like(if you don't lift a front wheel)

that can work, depending on ecu inputs (if only one front & one rear sensor input) then as you say. there is the possibility of expanding on this by using the Siemens PA6.6-GF25 as one has 2 signal inputs / single output so can take an axle (2 wheel sensors) signal to output for a single ecu input - so 4 sensors and 2 of the Siemens PA6.6-GF25 would work an ecu with 2 tc inputs removing the possible issues of 'lifting a wheel' as you say

my ecu has 4 x wheel inputs so can accept individual signals, using Mazdas abs sensors makes sense to me as...

1, I have them ready to use (mk2 front & rear uprights, mk2 driveshafts and as to front hubs, I have the choice of mk2 hubs or the BMW E30 hub conversion I'm working on)

2, oem fitment so no messing making bracketry / setting sensor / reluctor-wheel gaps.

3, oem replacability in event of sensor failure.

4, I cannot resist the chance of overcomplicating things (OR fiddling)

Rich.

 

[guitaristanime]

I cannot resist the chance of overcomplicating things (OR fiddling)

A true engineering statement.

One does not simply.

 

[Zed.]

oops...


again.....

it was cheap 🤣 🤣🤣
this is called the 'ST8130 Road Car Display System' as it has millage & 'trip' readouts, usefull for mot time I suppose...

so, its not new

the main functions I'll be using

it also has a shiftlight output, came with a red lamp but theres an optional (expensive & I WILL NOT be buying it) sequential shiftlight thinggy...

has an inbuilt laptimer, not something I need...

like all Stack gauges, it's configurable to different senders.

http://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1764.pdf

more fiddlin & rethinkin to follow....

Rich.

 

[Zed.]

been thinking & lookin....

mounted low & centrally in the 5's cluster allows use of the origonal indicator light telltale arrows, a conventional 52mm diameter gauge each side and space for the control buttons above / each side of the display

offset to a side (right to photograph), this still allows the indicator's arrows to be seen and possibly 3 x 52mm gauges - if needed?

my intention is to cut a piece of carbonfiber plate as the backing and sink the display into it as sorta flush.

the display has speedometer (with trip), tachometer, oil temperature, oil pressure, coolant temperature, fuel pressure, fuel level and voltmeter read-outs selectable so what else would I need?

I have Lamda / 02 gauge, time clock, oil tempeerature gauge that I rewired to select 1 of 3 sensors (for different sources like diff and gearbox) but what would I need?

Lamda and time clock I suppose

wiring connections for the display are:

(S1 to S4) Switches 1 to 4 for menu selection.
(WS) Wheel speed input.
(SL) Gear shift warning light.
(AL) Alarm warning light.
(NET) Data logging expansion pack.
(LAP) Optional lap timing sensor.
(A) Fuel pressure sensor.
(ES) Engine speed (RPM).
(OT) Oil temperature sensor.
(WT) Water temperature sensor.
(OP) Oil pressure sensor.
(F) Fuel level sensor.
(B+) 12v Supply (Battery).
(B–) Battery negative.

so not excessive - it's a self-contained loom so easily knitted into the rest of the cars wiring (that I'm remaking & only using Mazda lighting / popup wiring as origonal ish)

Rich.

 

[Zed.]

cad or more like pad (Paper aided design) to the rescue...

I'd previously made the cluster faceplate template when assembling the seperate gauges so flipped it over to reuse, an A4 page will just cover the cluster..

I've drawn the stackdash shape & transcribed onto the faceplate template, fretsaw fun tomorrow and maybe ordering another cf plate 🤣 🤣

Rich.

 

[Zed.]

so, some heavy-duty diggin in the workshop and the fretsaw was discovered, some more diuggin and the pack of blades were discovered

then some worldclass terrible chopping 🤭
the origonal cluster face has been trimmedbutchered but the indicator warning arrows have been retainedas I sorta like them, will drill. holes in the cf to allow them to be seen.

it sorta fits! it is cut oversize so I can sand to fit & hopefully not mess it up....

the idea (ish)

and where the Stack display will live

more fiddlin to follow....

Rich.

 

[Zed.]

time for another tangent....

bought a pair of wheels...

'Viking' germany????

supposedly from a UK spec 'SE' and have the correct spiggot / centre-bore for the Mazda hub so usefull, also reasonabally light for a 7" rim (with used Pilotsport3 tyres fitted, maybe usable for road hooning?)

7x15 & et30?

had to try one on the silver heap....

fill the arch nicely without being something that will rub the arch lip!

decided to try the Wilwood / Supermiata Boxmount in for spoke clearance.

from the rear....

clearance is clearance?

still clears.

maybe a small (~3mm?) wheelspacer to allow for error & it'll be fine 😎

theres probably more to say but......

Rich.