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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #481 ·
more to this, been looking at connectors for the dash-cluster...

onto auto-click's website for a looksee & they've got 20 position SUMITOMO sealed connectors.

SUMITOMO 6189-0714 (female)


and Sumitomo 6188-0494 (male)


sensible priced @ ~£5something +vat each

that would do the job but I fancy higher-rated as there will be common live & earth connections so looked at 18 position...

they have Deutsch DTV02-18PC


and DTV06-18SC


these are more expensive @ ~£15something +vat each but hopefully more robust :unsure:

will search more & see where I get....

Rich.
 

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Happily expanding the To Do list since 1997
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You could go for a connector with more pins than you need and use two or three pins each for live and earth to spread the current load.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #483 ·
You could go for a connector with more pins than you need and use two or three pins each for live and earth to spread the current load.

I've considered this - actually doing this for the front lighting loom(s) through the bulkhead as they have ~ 8 wires and I have 19pin connectors (y)

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #484 ·
no progress worth mentioning really, been caught up with other projects & of them I have many :ROFLMAO:

had 5 mins spare earlier so continued the quest for removable rear lower wishbone to upright bolts in spare uprights I'm prepping for the '90 Eunos.


I'd previously cut the old rusted wishbones from the upright, the bolts are commonly frozen in place and these were no exception...


had these in the sandblaster to hopefully remove the corrosion from the exposed bolt.


now they're soaking in Worth's finest 'rusty penetrant' spray and will have a few days worth of squirting before a session in the hydraulic press & 10 tons of persuasion ;)

done a little more with the dashboard wiring, re-thought some of it & now trying to draw another 'map' to help with planning, can see why I'm not an electrician 🤭

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #485 · (Edited)
the switches for oil temperature gauge & multiple sender-sources arrived today, can now start with the toumbstone's gauge fittment & sub-loom...


these are hopefully going to allow power-feed interruption when selecting different senders so the Stack stepper-motor gauge resets / calibrates for each reading (engine oil, gearbox oil & differential oil)

switches were cheap, £1.19 +vat each and the 'knobs' were 20p so it was nearly cheaper to buy 1 of each to get free postage (& spares to destroy in testing :ROFLMAO: )


like so.

and yes, the Floor-God had a sacrifice of one ballbearing so this is now spare parts......

these also have an adjustable stop-pin so can be set to only turn tio the 3 positions I'll be using :cool:

Rich.
 

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I know it's rude to stare at another chap's knob shaft but those switches seem to have plain round shafts to fit a collet style knob, but the knobs are for the type with one flat side.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #487 ·
I know it's rude to stare at another chap's knob shaft
unless you have permission OR are friendso_O


those switches seem to have plain round shafts to fit a collet style knob, but the knobs are for the type with one flat side.
this is correct, deliberately ordered these as when I've fitted the switch I'll shorten the shaft & file a suitable flat to accept the knob....

sorta;)

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #488 ·
had 5 mins soldering (or 5 hours thinking!) to make a 'test' switch & sensor combo.


sorta works 😲


3 sensors to common output and 'shorting' power between each position so the gauge re-calibrates before reading :cool:

looking at running an LED for each sender to denote it's origin (engine / gearbox or diff oil) but that involves finding my box of LED's and then getting around to soldering tails before adding to the switch.

also....


had 5 mins so tried a BMW E30 front hub on the Mazda front upright...



E30 hub is the new / shiney one, I've added screw-in conversion studs as these run with wheel bolts. standard ABS Mx5 mk2 hub shown for comparison.


theres a minor offset issue needing addressing, one of the modifications needed to fit these onto a Mazda upright...


Mazda hub face looks to be 63.5mm from the caliper mount face on the upright.


BMW hub face looks to be 51mm from the caliper mount face on the upright, I'm going to machine some spacers to position the disc, I'll measure more accurately with a vernier hight gauge one day:ROFLMAO:

more thinking :unsure:

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #489 ·

overall view of the mess....


suspect soldering!




next is to find my box of LED's to have visual indicators of the source sender - probably different colours for each sensor?

did a thing...


actually uploaded a vid on youtube 😲

this is the 'working' switch (mk2) this has 'dead' positions between each sensor to allow the gauge to reset & recalibrate :cool:


Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #490 ·
bit more wiring knitted..


started adding AMP plugs & sockets for the temperature sensors, will make suitable extention looms for the car's fittment.


started playing with the time-clock & voltmeter fitment, I've fitted the gauges in emptied heater-vents but need to sort a method of holding the vent-ring into the toumbstone - probably self-tapping screws to allow removal as a unit but am thinking of glue.


heatschrink the sub-looms togther ready to splice into the oil temp gauge and then join to the car's loom.


Stack (Autometer) use red for +12, black for earth and white for illumination.

next to decide on the radio-infill panel before fitting the temp-gauge & rotary switch so I can connect the gauges and finalise connection to the car's power & illumination, ideally I will have the panel removable as will have the e-pas controller & relays mounted on the tunnel.

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #491 · (Edited)
spliced the temp gauge wiring with the voltmeter & time clock to create the sub-loom...


might add a spur for future addition of a wideband 02 but thats not happening unless I win the lottery :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:


loom has to run down the side of the toumbstone to miss the heater control.


really need to sort a resistor to dim the illumination, theres a unit available fron Stack but it's £40 so I'll look into making something - another project...

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #492 ·

eventually ordered an M22 blanking plug...


'O' ring sealed so hopefully good for the task of....


keeping spiders out of the engine as I'm only using one port in the oilfilter mount due to the remote oilfilter & the drysump having an external oilpump.


again tried a 45degree hose-fitting but it's not a great routing so will bite the bullet & get straight hose-ends...

lots of little things & interactions to consider & I doubt I've thought of maybe 1/2 of them....

Rich.
 

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Looking good. Wish id invested in some quality gauges now but my cheapos have not failed yet.
1 thing though on the fly its hard to read them as there flat on the tombstone and from drivers seat you looking at them at an angle...so get the parabolic effect .
Wish id angled them more driver focused.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #494 ·
I dont find conventional 'clock' type gauges that bad when at an angle but digital / led & lcd can be impossibleto see :unsure:

Wish id invested in some quality gauges
I've 2 spare Stack oil temp gauges (new, gauges only) & 2 spare Stack voltmeters (new, unopened in boxes) in my stash, will be up for sale shortly...

:whistle:

Rich.
 

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Lol change 1 gotta change them all..in all fairness if i revisit it will be a digi dash install.

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #496 ·
had a play with the cars main wiring loom today, been trying to find time to do this for ages and now it's started...


the main / front loom, I've removed the ecu / engine spaghetti but theres more trimming to be done and then tidying Mazda's random splices and excess wire lengths (& rediculous fusebox / relay placement :mad:)


the engine's ecu spaghetti 🤭
I'll be using a standalone ecu so will have a new engine loom so removing ~30 year old copper wires that may be damaged or higher resistance is a good thing (also have more functions ;))

I've stripped a similar loom lastyear but it was different and the dashboard loom would not fit as there were different plugs on the join, this was a pain as it was many hours work but now I am pre-armed with an understanding of their odd design...

more fiddlin to follow...

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #497 ·
been thinking more about the wiring, Mazda really went overcomplicated with this as theres relays and splices on the passanger innerwing / bulkhead area that could have been near the fusebox (fuseboxes?) or mounted centrally (as I'm intending :) )

reading the available Mx5 wiring diagrams (as cannot find the Eunos Roadster specific items - theres subtle differences & wire colours :mad:) is fun, I'm chasing wire-paths and diagrams as it prevents removing something that might be usefull later :ROFLMAO:


also, they went a little overprotective with fuses (27 posible positions?) - I'm condensing down to 10 blade type and a single heavy trip/resettable type for the Epas system feed.

my fuse list (so far!)

Headlights. 30A blade.
Headlight retractor. 30A blade.
Gauges / Warning lamps / Indicators 10A blade.
Tail lights. 15A blade.
Hazard warning lights. 15A blade.
Wipers / washers. 20A blade.
Heater (demist & aux cooling). 30A blade.
Cooling fan. 15A blade.
Ignition / Alternator. 30A blade.
Fuel pump. 10A blade.
Epas. 60A trip / resettable?

as to fusebox, think I'll fit one of these 10 way with Led telltale...


also I'll be fitting a remote solenoid in the battery to startermotor power cable, this allows isolating the main power feed from shorting underbonnet.
Startermotor activation will be triggered in the cockpit (mounted on top of gearbox tunnel probably?) with the relay feeding poser to the startermotor - this runs the startermotor and a simple bridging wire from the startermotor's power connection and triggers it's inbuilt solenoid for the bindex to engage with the flywheel's ringgear....

^ sounds more complicated when I describe but is simple in operation & to connect :cool:

probably a relay like this....

but I have several 'old' type Lucas solenoid's in the workshop & sheds....

more spending again :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #499 ·
fusebox ordered from 12voltplanet (& delivered), first order from them and good service - also it's better than I was expecting :cool:

AN10 fittings ordered from Speedflow (& delivered) for oilfilter to engine ordered & delivered...


before...


out of packets and the oilpressure sensor tried in the adaptor.


tried on the engine and oilfilter mount, looks like a better pipe-run than previous fittings...


closer view, the oilpressure sensor is horizontal in this photo, is usable like this but a little close to the alternator for my liking.


sender vertical and pointing down. possible oilfilter clearance issues??


sender vertical and pointing up. possible throttlebody / fuel pipework issues??

will investigate more.....

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #500 ·
had a half hour with the silver car and an anglegrinder...


trimmed some wieght off...


still rough....


rough idea as to the oil scavange pipe route from tank through bulkhead to the pump.


as the piperoute is near the exhaust manifold, I've a few sections of heatshielding tube so tried some on the -12 hose & happily it fits :cool:

more thinking & measuring to follow....



subject of measuring, I've had a bad idea about a certain Vauxhall 20XE engine and it's dimensions compared to the Mazda engine :unsure:
not that much different ( OK it's ~2" longer but.....)



MUST RESIST 😮




NEXT.



Rich.
 
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