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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #461 ·
confession time...

even though I don't believe the hype of coolant reroutes I might be making a slightly homemade version :unsure:

this is based around the 'IF' in If I use the 323 cylinderhead as a base & start modifying (again!)...


looking at taking the heater feed from the cylinderhead between numbers 3 & 4 inlet ports (as the fwd cars) and having the rad top hose from the rear of the cylinderhead using a 323 thermostat housing with pipework routed along the passanger side innerwing.


I'll drill & tap or weld a threadded boss onto the Jenvey inlet manifold to run the heater pipe, the heater pipe will run through the bulkhead @ the drivers side to save pipes snaking around the head.

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #463 ·
had 5 mins with the battery drill & spotweld cutter, then naturally the battery drill's battery went flat 😐


removed the screenwash reservoir lower mount.


bit cleaner there without it...


the 'cut' line, I'll try to follow the chassis-rail profile as the lip is usefull to fit speedclips onto if I want to add a heatshield at a later date...

more to follow.

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #464 ·
back to the head from the partswasher...


bit cleaner!


the chambers & inlet ports were quite clean before but now are easily inspected.


number 1 chamber & valveseats / ports.


number 2 chamber, can see the ports 'valve-throat' area is machined @ manufacture & the casting quality shows un-machined areas...


number 3 inlet port, this I mentioned previously & was suprised how well the engine performed even with this restriction! again bad casting & not picked up in quality control 😲


number 1 exhaust port - for no other reason than 'why not' :p


back to the camfollower boss / cam clearance relief's.


slight relief cast but not as much as the others I've seen.


again casting quality, lots of lamination as the metal was cooling during pouring, not a head I would trust for modification 😲

so, this head will be sacrificed to the god of hacksaw (or powersaw?) and hopefully will provide an idea of coolant passageways compared to ports although with the casting quality I could only use it as a guide....

:unsure:

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #465 ·
something else from the partswaher, I cleaned the 'old' oilpump / front cover (now gutted for use with the drysump system's external oilpump) and some old waterpumps that I'd stripped to use for mockup purposes (playing with scrap!)


top waterpump is 1.8 type, middle is 1.6 type & oilpump / front cover lower.


again but engine-side view.


waterpump differences, 1.8 has integral alternator adjuster strap mount & a plain hole for the cambelt tensioner pulley bolt ( threads into cylinderblock) whereas 1.6 type has no alternator adjuster mount and threadded hole for cambelt tensioner pulley bolt.

possibly interesting / usefull, the oilpump pressure-out porting has a threadded hole (sealed with a taper-threadded grubscrew / plug) that can be used to fit a 'pre-filtered' oil pressure sender, usefull to know if the filter is getting blocked?

[img]https://i.imgur.com/UNGW3F9.jpg
plug removed.

more waffle to follow.....

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #466 ·
More waffle....

thought I'd compare the headgasket from the silver car's 1.6 Lnc engine to a Payen replacement for the B6t (listed as a different part to the Mx5 in the Paye catndog)


payen B6t gasket is new (was bought to compare & was cheap on ebay!)

differences in the coolant passageways (exhaust side @ outer edge)


easier to see? (correct orientation with inlet on left & front of engine lower)


the Mx5 gasket has extra coolant flow passageways on inlet but less @ exhaust in the gasket BUT that doesn't mean the head / block have these positions open...

will look later.

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #467 ·
bouncing around again :p

to illustrate the 323 turbo's coolant system differences I photographed the lower manifold.
I will not be using this part bot copying the plumbing idea.


engine side same as Mx5.


outside has pair of coolant pipe-stubs heater (rear) and bypass (front) and although they look to use the ports in the manifold face they are also joined togther in the manifold.


ecu coolant sensor by heater pipe-stub.


the 'upper' manifold plenium mounts here, that carries the throttlebody.

now back to the passanger innerwing / bulkhead chassis-gusset delete.


'chain-drilled' then split with a chisel, will trim to size with a tinsnips for a straighter edge.


closer view, can see the void had filled with rusty coolant from a previously leaking heater pipe so the seamsealer and gromets didn't seal.


I'd wiped the stain with my finger & revealed sorta-silver so not actually rusty - happy to know theres a chance for other 'hidden' voids....


looking in can seethe end of the chassis - not connected to the bulkhead!


better view, can now easily inspect the chassis :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

will cut more off tomorrow probably more use of the spotweld-drill and a hacksaw blade to minimise noise (evening fiddlin)

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #468 ·
throwing this in here as a placeholder, I found this ages ago but cannot remember if I've shared it here...


this is a Suzuki GSXR1300 Hayabusa inlet port looking towards the valveseats.


when compared to the standard Mazda B6 (1.6L)ports you can see a serious difference 😲


I've tried to modify the ports & Jenvey inlet similar to the Suzuki port but need more work :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: - theres a 'corner at each outer edge that cannot be good for flow....

I'll be cutting a cylinderhead to learn the port-wall thicknesses & hopefully rough-machine a fresh head as testbed...

Rich.
 

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So are the early 1.6 engines rods stronger than the 1.8 or is just shorter throw so less leverage?

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
So are the early 1.6 engines rods stronger than the 1.8 or is just shorter throw so less leverage?
as far as I'm aware, Mx5 conrods are the same from 1989-2005 for both 1.6L & 1.8L engines as far as I know, the fwd turbocharged (non Mx5?) engines had different / stronger (& slightly heavier) conrods as a homologation nod to probable power upgrades in competition as this needed to be a 'production' part (also lower compression pistons)
the 'MSM' / Mazdaspeed turbocharged Mx5 mk2.5 I believe has the stronger conrods / lower compression pistons as in the Mazda 323 GTX/GTR engines BUT have not found partnumbers to varify as I'm only interested in the 1.6L engine :p

as to 'shorter throw', the 1.6L has a slightly shorter stroke than the 1.8L but also smaller bore (78x83.6 mm vs. 83 mmx85 mm) it's the conrod ratio that has a bearing on strength as well as physical strength - then add fi / engine speed into the mix:ROFLMAO:

I've got a set of B6t rods & pistons in the workshop doing nothing;)


Rich.
 

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Cheers bud. I knew youd know no plans to forge atmo..maybe winter.

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #473 ·
tripped over a gearing calculator so compared the gearing I have (modified 6speed as 5 speed & 4.778:1 final drive) against the 5.1:1 final drive I covert...


what suprises me is it's still got long legs even with the non-roadcar gearing :unsure:

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #474 ·
hasd 5 mins earlier, decided to try the 323 turbo's heater hard-pipe on the 5...


this is purely for shitz&giggles...


this shows the 'extra' connections used in the origonal B6t configuration...


so, from the end near the clutch Master-cylinder...

heater feed (16mm hose)
the front of inlet manifold (between 1&2 cylinder ports, 8mm hose)
the thermostat bypass (above bellhousing, so called the 'devil-plug' on Mx5's! 8mm hose)
and turbo coolant feed rear of exhaust manifold area, 8mm hose)

I'll be having a slightly different plumbing arangement to this OR a standard Mx5 as I'll be running the heater return from the heater through the Laminova oilcooler then to the lower rad hose along the innerwing but might run the 323 style inlet manifold front bypass and heater feed with rear thermostat and it's heater return bypass hose...

obviously this means a ghetto-design 'top' radiator pipe arangement that would also run across the passanger innerwing - probably in metal pipe with rubber hose connections :unsure:

more thinking to follow....

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #475 ·
had a random thought earlier, I've been planning & considering the oil pipework but not actually looked at the connection between the oilfilter head and the engine...


fitted the Setrab oilfilter take-off plate to the engine, only AN10 pipe nipple fitted into the 'in' as I'll be sorting a plug for the 'out'.


I had thought of 45degree hose fittings but thisisn't giving a neat & compliant hose run.


test-fit with an old hose.


decided on straight fittings as this allows a nicer hose run.

maybe I shouldn't have concentrated so much on the exhaust side for the oilpump, Laminova and oil reservoir plumbing 😲

now, typically, I have no straight AN10 hose fittings so more on the shopping list...

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #477 ·
a while ago I captured a pair of 'new-looking' Fidanza 94018 adjustable cam pulleys on ebay and noticed they were slightly unfinished as the centres didn't seem to be deburred with some sharp edges and corners that could cause stresses and possibly cracking :unsure:

some google-fu reveals some reports of these pulleys cracking & looks to be the sharp corner where the drilled-lightening hole meets the rear face & 'spiggot-journal' 😲

so, while watching the olympic surfing I enjoyed some quality time with a needle-file & the pulleys :cool:


both pulleys, I've no idea why they have different diameter holes in the centres...
lower / smaller hole cenre is reversed in this photo.


verry different diameter holes!


this is where I'm concerned about, sharp edges & corners can be the start of cracking & as these pulleys are not cheap....


before fettling.


after deburring.


the smaller holes also needed fettling.


deburred, must be lighter now!

so, hopefully safer and no cracks in the future...

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #479 ·
never heard of it, some sort of ECU?
I take it as spam / sales :rolleyes:

anyway...

adding this photo as it shows the straight inlet tract and the hight of the exhaust manifold.


I'll be extending the inlet tract ~1/2" by making a new set of longer adapter-stubs.

more thinking & drawing ongoing...

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #480 ·
another tangent again, well returning to.....

dash cluster wiring..

the cluster will contain 5 gauges and 7 warning lamps.

gauges.

Coolant. (5 wires)
Speedometer. (5 wires)
Oil pressure. (5 wires +2 for illumination)
Revcounter. (4 wires)
Fuel. (3 wires)

warning lamps.

Indicaor left.
Indicator right.
Headlamp main-beam.
Hazard warning.
Ignition / charge.
Oil pressure.
Foglight.

I've been looking into a wiring connector to allow easy cluster removal and need ~20 positions including earth.


Coolant temp gauge. (Stack)

+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth Black.
+12v illumination Red.
Signal out Grey.
Signal in Purple.


Speedometer. (Stack)

+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth Black.
+12v illumination Red.
Signal in Black/Yellow
Signal out Undecided


Oil pressure. (Autometer)

+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth Black.
+12v illumination Red.
Sensor Grey.
Sensor Purple.
Sensor Black.
+12v illumination White.
-12v illumination Black.

Revcounter. (Elliot)

+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth. Black.
Signal / Trigger Green.
Telltale -12v earth Blue.

Fuel level. (standard Mazda)

+12v Live Red.
-12v Earth Black.
Signal Blue/Yellow. (may change to match Mazda's loom colours - when I check their colours!)

this gives a list as...

1. Red (live)
2. Black (Earth)
3. White (illumination)
4. Grey (Coolant)
5. Purple (Coolant)
6. Grey (Oil pressure)
7. Purple (Oil pressure)
8.Black (Oil pressure)
9.Black/Yellow (Speedometer)
10. Undecided (Speedometer)
11. Green (Revcounter Signal / trigger)
12. Blue (Revcounter 'Telltale')
13. Blue/Yellow (Fuel sender)

Plus

warning lamps. (colours undecided as yet, will try to use oem Mazda colours)

14. Indicaor left.
15. Indicator right.
16. Headlamp main-beam.
17. Hazard warning.
18. Ignition / charge.
19. Oil pressure.
20. Foglight.

now to find a nice connector...


also, theres an output from the Speedometer, this is usefull for many reasons - mostly to 'future-proof' the wiring but have the potential for cruise control, vehicle-speed related boost control if I decide on turbo (would be matched with gear position input also) or even a 'Trip-meter' for accurate tulip navigation.


more to follow...

Rich.
 
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