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layabout
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Those milspec connectors are indestructable but a bit of a pain in the arse to terminate. We used a lot of 26-pin ones at work. Everything about them said "we designed these so squaddies wouldn't just destroy them" and the effort of assembling them in the first place was a secondary consideration.
yup, almost Bombproof you could say :lol:

another description would be Squaddyproof :whistle:

pinning isn't too bad, depinning to re-populate can be a nightmare though :wallbash:

^^in my experience.....

but I'm probably gooing to be re-educated somewhat :rofl: :doh: :rofl:

plan b.89 is to keep with standard wiring :p

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #422 ·
Bought another Stack oil temperature gauge :eek:

it was cheap B)
my 3rd...
so, coolant, engine oil and now I've either spares or can have a gearbox or diff temperature reading (unless I buy a 4th then evrything will be monitored :ph34r: )

also, was less than the cost of a sender alone ( theres a sender with the gauge!)

must resist...

:lol:

on a serious note, my gauge collecting is purely scientific as these are good quality and calibrated so accurate readings and any info will be interesting (to me anyway!)

Rich.
 

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layabout
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2,260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #424 ·
new (old stock Mazda) '323 steel sump pan has arrived, I'll modify this as the 'dry' sump pan as discussed previously

https://mighty5s.com/post/48904/thread

ECVJLFB.jpg

shiney black paint & labels....

jp5pRxo.jpg

will be attacked with an anglegrinder & weld so not going to stay that way.... :lol:

ET97GVO.jpg

at least its not rusted or warped like used sumps....

U4Y4Wru.jpg


GSEwnNs.jpg

flywheel end...

the steel sump can have a 'full' rubber gasket or just rubber sections under the crankshaft seal areas and mastic along the length, think this is the mastic type....

Rich.
 

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M52TU Turbo Swapped MX5
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How come you opted for a steel sump to make your dry sump and not an aluminium one?

was it just simplicity from a welding point of view or another reason?

Thanks,

Nicole
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #426 ·
How come you opted for a steel sump to make your dry sump and not an aluminium one?

was it just simplicity from a welding point of view or another reason?
OEM / standard die-cast aluminium sumps are thin & fragile as well as being 'fun' to work :whistle:

steel is easier to work :yes:

steel will probably be stitch-welded and brazed (I'm a bit of a traditionalist at heart :oops: )

and I've seen too many lovingly fabricated alloy sumps destroyed by minor 'Ooopses' whereas steel gets smacked with a hammer & refitted :lol: :lol: :lol:

Rich.
 

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That's a fair point, oil impregnated Alu is an absolute arse to weld! I suppose the only real downside to steel is its another thing to slowly rust :lol:

If the pan didn't curve around the front and rear main seals the way it does, it wouldn't be too difficult to make an Alu pan from scratch. Welded Alu sheet/plate is far more resilient than cast (if it's done properly that is)
 

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layabout
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That's a fair point, oil impregnated Alu is an absolute arse to weld! I suppose the only real downside to steel is its another thing to slowly rust :lol:

If the pan didn't curve around the front and rear main seals the way it does, it wouldn't be too difficult to make an Alu pan from scratch. Welded Alu sheet/plate is far more resilient than cast (if it's done properly that is)
+1 to all that, I've seen enough alu drip onto the floor when halfway through a run :wallbash:

and steel :blink:

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #429 ·
Glenair bulkhead connectors have arrived..

6GJJCBr.jpg

proper mil-spec loveliness B)

DFmxmYN.jpg

1/4 turn disconnect (in case of mantanance etc.?) and sealed.

xFE21Ng.jpg

possibly overkill for automotive use but neat answer to a fume / fluid resistant bulkhead connector and also at a sensible price ;)

these have 19 pin oisitions whereas I'll be using ~8 on each side for lighting and a few others like horn, wipermotor and startermotor / alternator so plenty of space to add 'extras' if needed...

now to make a pin-insertion tool....

Rich.
 

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layabout
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2,260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #430 ·
eventually decided on oilfilter head type & position so celebrated by drilling some holes...

Oi4O9OL.jpg

doesn't look that impressive realy :wacko:

cQOQLVN.jpg

used Mazda's chassis-lip pressing for the mount position, seemed rude not to...

CtK6Dxv.jpg

this positions the centre of the filter inline with the alternator belt.

O2tS1jN.jpg

plenty of room around it for plumbing and access.

plumbing wise I'll probably use a straight connector from the engine and a 45* fitting onto the filterhead with the feed (from pump) using a 90* fitting and running accross the enginebay (between rad & engine) to another 45* fitting onto the pump.
I'm undecided on what hose to use, I have stainless braided but theres also a Nomex / Kevlar covered hose available (non electrically conductive so safe arround the alternator?) but it's a little expensive :mellow:

will mock-up tomorrow if the weather allows!

Rich.
 

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layabout
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in my search for quality (cheap ;)) gauges I've tripped over another pair of Autometer's offerings (Autometer make Stack amongst other re-branded - like Ford Racing etc.)

this pair are a 'vacuum/boost' gauge (not needed) and a 100psi fuel pressure gauge & sender.

https://www.autometer.com/2-fuel-press-0-100-psi-w-o-peak-valley-fse-4431.html

comes with it's suitable pressure sender

https://www.autometer.com/100-psi-pressure-transducer.html?bvstate=pg:2/ct:q

and from Autometer's wiring details, has their 'pro-control' feature so can signal a relay to power / cut power from something like fuel pump if pressures drop :wacko:

https://www.autometer.com/pub/media/manual/2650-1331.pdf

as with my re-purposing of an oil-temp gauge as coolant temp I'm considering using this fuel pressure gauge as engine oil pressure, mostly as it saves having a 'live' (hot?) oil-hose into the dash-cluster so less chance of leaks or worse :eek:

if I find an 'oil' specific gauge in the future then the wiring will already exist so easy to swap over the visavle gauge & then have the option of monitoring fuel pressure B)

so, I'll be re-wiring the cluster (again?) to add the electronic gauge in place of the Raetech mecanical type but this isn't that hard and hopefully the backlighting will match the Stack speedo & coolant (oil?) gages

more complication added to the car but no actual progress (rofl)

Rich.
 

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layabout
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2,260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #432 ·
had the fuel (oil?) pressure gauge arrive today, it's correct and can easily be re-purposed so a win B)

JvWyNfE.jpg

un-shiney?
the sensor's are 'not' cheap (~£100+!) so hopefully accurate :lol:

OkUDSOb.jpg

'all' the bits needed....

zTKlVZP.jpg

same wiring as the Stack gauges (made by same company) but has a conventional '501' bulb not the internal Led illumination of the Stack items...

much happiness & time to rebuild / rewire the cluster...

Rich.
 

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layabout
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2,260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #433 ·
no progress but have been thinking....

yes, it's dangerous but :lol:

anyway, doing some fiddlin on a rallycar and ended up reading the Escort Cosworth WRC parts manual and found the coolant piping diagram.
interestingly they have a few Laminova coolers fitted.
Engine & front diff coolers are plumbed into the main radiator hoses with gearbox and pas coolers in a seperate hose to the rad from the rear of the engine.

OEbnei0.jpg

either this points to better plumbing / heat management or it was just the easiest for packing 4 coolers in the available space...

this now confuses my thoughts of fitting the Laminova in my 5's heater system :wacko:

more reserch (& conflicting ideas) to come :mellow:

NEXT.

also fiddlin with an early Landrover 1.6L engine, challanging as it's probably been standing for 70 years....

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #434 ·
thinking & looking at the oiltank again, I've been sidetracked (realy?) but back on this (for now :lol: )

6Ltafs7.jpg

origonal idea was to make a new opening in the bulkhead for the tank's filler but now decided it will go in the heaters outside-air intake.

2hXHGDN.jpg

this i mocked-up with both parts of the tubular tank (to set the height) so the 'other' / lower tank will be sat to it's side but more central in the footwell.

TYN89cx.jpg

visualising the tank's top & filler in the heater intake, might be able to see the tank's breather pipe stub under the bulkhead.

V1ZFYsY.jpg

enginebay view.

with the top / tubular section fitted aproximately here, the oil feed pipework from the engine / pump (via Laminova exchanger) will enter the bulkhead near the innerwing, neater than the position I was expecting previously.

more fiddlin to follow.

Rich.
 

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layabout
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2,260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #435 ·
as with my tanjental thinking, I cut the new sump today :lol:

PIIBTyF.jpg

new metal, no rust or oil contamination (fumes!)

TWkEEsr.jpg

clean base to work from B)

b3ibrlN.jpg

the 'saved' rim section, have (again) fitted the Mz5's 'windage-tray' as a guide but I'll not be using it in the finished pan.

oT7Uuv1.jpg

the standard Mx5 windage-tray sits recessed into the engine's alloy sump, on the steel pan I'll be fabricating a similar but hopefully more efficient at oil ducting / directing towards the pickup troughs.

OmDtNVF.jpg


kDczuxa.jpg


4rS65bi.jpg


uJTjqHb.jpg

different views of my 'rough' cutting...

as to the design I'll try to emulate...

ZRfhQH7.jpg

I'll be copying the sump trough & tray design used in this (generic?) Ford drysump pan

w4BIecf.jpg

the tray / ducting uses crankshaft rotation to 'sweep' oil into the pickup troughs...

EmTP3aT.jpg

I'll be fabricating a front & rear trough setup, need to finalise the front trough position and the sump's depth as theres a steering rack to consider....

more faff to follow.

Rich.
 

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layabout
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2,260 Posts
played with dash cluster wiring (again)

cotnhD3.jpg

re-loomed to add the pressure gauge in, heatschrink to the rescue B)

3k9Otmf.jpg

also added some black to the bezel of the revcounter, tried a permanant marker (first try) and it's mostly covered, few coats and the bodge will be complete.

next, the warning / indicator lamp wiring....

Rich.
 

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layabout
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2,260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #437 ·
bought a Spal fan to use in the trimmed Golf fan-shroud (on the Polo rad, on the Mazda)....

lbK4n7i.jpg

Spal Axial Fan, VA11-AP7/C-57A, 12v (Pull) 10.0" diameter, measure once.....

ASRtB10.jpg

Lucky guess on the size!

eCAYCkY.jpg

looks promising...

sbyLMth.jpg


SPBTCxR.jpg

fits in the shroud, not quite all the way in though...

iO2oHE1.jpg

but fills the hole ;)

M6oM4wB.jpg

theres 4 mount 'lugs' that need trimming...

tXuYs5u.jpg

trimming done & it's in.
now to make the mounts using the 6 bolting positions around the circumference....

Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #438 ·
more un-progress to report...


as a follow-on from the remote oilfilter head install, I fitted a 'nipple (1/2" bsp - AN10) and aded a used / test brided hose to visualise the pipe route across the enginebay to the oilpump (not fitted in photo)
I've got a fitting & hose shopping-list for the pressure-side and the cheaper end is stainless-braided o_O



also, been playing with the E-pas conversion...


motor to dashboard frame clearance, there IS clearance!
can also see the brake pedalbox.


the Corsa eps column has a brace bracket that fits to the Corsa dashboard, I'm going to take a leaf from their book and make a plate to connect the bracket to the Mazda pedalbox mounts as an extra mount - is it needed? dunno BUT it's steering so.....


Rich.
 

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layabout
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2,260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #439 ·
okey, had 10 mins earlier so did something...


to fit the Spal fan in the modified Golf fan-shroud (on the Polo rad) I'm using the (6) radial bolting positions but this had complications...


the bolting positions accept a 10mm sliding-nut / bolt BUT the slots need a slim bolthead so some bolts & a lathe later and it's getting closer to working.


assembled togther on the rad as a unit.


the Polo rad accepts a fan thermostat, the one I bought (lastyear) has 2 terminals but there are 3 terminals available - both easily wired.


also looking into a metal coolant pipe to supply the heater & expansion-tank, this one is from a Ford transit-connect 1.8tdci.


another view.


an aproximate overview, can see the oil pressure / feed hose route across the engine-bay from the oilpump on the exhaust side (not fitted in this and previous photo's)
the rad will be positioned slighty differently to that shown, mostly as it's dangling from the 'top' hose not bolted in finally as it's been in&out a few times, maybe even lowered slightly as there's plenty of room to play with...


Rich.
 

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layabout
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Discussion Starter · #440 ·
no real progress lately as I'm playing catchup :confused:

had 5 mins earlier so drilled & tapped some gearbox / diff oil filler-plugs 1/8"NPT to accept the Stack temperature senders.


each sender has 1/8"NPT thread and comes with a 3/8" & 1/2"NPT bush...


naturally, Mazda used M18 (as a guess, OK I've not measured but it looks smaller :ROFLMAO:)


the rusty filler plug was from a diff whereas the shiney filler-plug was from the 6speed (now 5speed?) gearbox.


the 'wet' ends of the senders, theres a gap so oil can contact the tip and hopefully give a reasonabally accurate reading although I would prefer it in the oil 'flow' for better readings.

my intention is to use 3 senders for engine oil, gearbox oil and diff oil temperature and a single gauge with a 2-pole rotary switch to select what sensor shows it's reading, as the Stack (Autometer) stepper-motor gauges calibrate on powerup then I'd decided to 'kill' gauge power each time a sensor is chosen.

Switch, 2 Pole, 6 Position, Metric - CK1030 https://cpc.farnell.com/lorlin/ck1030/switch-2pole-6-pos-metric/dp/SW04137?ost=ck1030


bit expensive though :ROFLMAO::p


I'll be using a second (first?) Stack oil temperature gauge as an engine coolant gauge (Stack / Autometer use the same senders for both oil & coolant stepper-motor gauges)
oddly enough, Stack / Autometer use the same pressure sensors on their oil / fuel etc. stepper-motor gauges - hence my use of a fuel pressure gauge as engine oil pressure (it was cheap & I'm not a fan of £200 on a single gauge ;))



as an aside, I knew there'd be a use for the vss output from the Stack electronic speedometer...
I can connect it to a 'trip' meter, something thats handy on navigational events / rallies - I'm starting to think in too many directions BUT this is handy to consider as I'm in the process of knitting the cars loom.

more to follow...

Rich.
 
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