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50 Shades Of Silver (Na Eunos)

62326 Views 686 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Zed.
in January I bought my Eunos, I'd liked the idea of one for maybe 10 years but I'd not had thew time or space for one.
so, heres my '50 Shades-of-Silver (amongst other colours)

as bought and home (ok, I've too many cars....)

replaced the TSW wheels with BBS from a BMW E30 :thumb-up:

the car was imported in 2000 so had avoided UK's salted roads for it's first 8 years life, being a Eunos the online vin decoders are next to useless and the dvla's regestration details are 'suspect' to say the least (it's regestered as a 1992 mx5, I guess thats the importer creating a car thats easy to sell & insure)

the previous owner had replaced the clutch, cambelt & waterpump, swapped to a mk2 dashboard conversion, fitted a cobalt stainless exhaust and a few other jobs like rust prevention.

when I was inspecting the car before purchase I noticed that the pedlebox was cracked with the throttlepedal almost hanging off, this had a major impact on the cars performance (possibly why it was for sale?)

when I got the car home I decided to remove the dashboard to investigate the wiring conversion as well as check the heater pipes & fix the pedlebox (the throttle pedal had actually dropped off after I got home!)


while the dash was out the seats & carpet followed, then I noticed that a rollcage had been fitted previously with holes drilled in the front & rear floors as well as the parcel shelf being cut (not a problem to me as I'm looking at fitting a cage :yes: - wonder what cage had been previously fitted? )

when the dash was out I decided that the conversion wiring was a bit of a mess so started looking for a replacement, this was put on hold for a while untill I spotted an advert for a UK spec 1990 MX5 for sale as a breaker...

1990 UK spec '5 with 1.8 conversion
as you can see, my 1991Discovery working for its living :driving:


little while later, some bits removed :whistle:
was easier to remove the engine by chopping the front of the bodyshell off, nice un-rusted chassis rails - unlike the sills, wheelarches & floors :rant:


dashboard loom needing repair, one of the reasons behind the tango'd 5's purchase....

annoyingly theres diferent looms fitted - unknown if this is age or engine related :rant: :rant: :rant:

discovered after re-building and fitting a mk1 dash into the Eunos :yes: :rant: :baseballbat:

so, ended up repairing the Eunos's origonal....

call for the solder & heatschrink......

bought some Compomotive wheels, unsure if they are destined for the Eunos or my mk2 Golf tdi....


another purchase, set of Ohlins adjustable dampers with springs & rosejointed topmounts, these were 'pre-loved' so a lot cheaper than new (although cost £400 so almost the same as the Eunos)
had fun when fitting, both rear damper bottom bolts were not wanting to undo as their 'captive-nuts' were 'UN-captive' :whistle:


:rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant:

so had to remove both lower wishbones....

3 out of 4 camber-adjustment bolts snapped :rant:


weld to the rescue & re-captive nuts :thumb-up:

random stupidity & reading crap on forums later ('Coil-On-Plug' conversion ideas :dance: )



ready for future turbo conversion (thats my excuse....... :whistle: )

twin cylinder adjustable bias pedlebox :thumb-up:

Another 'Random-boredom' idea, I've always had bias/adjustable pedleboxes on rallycars so as the Eunos is hopefully going to hillclimb & sprint its getting one :yes:

this is the 'mk1' design, not a working prototype but just pushing ideas....

the standard NA pedal ratio is 4:1, this is fine with servo asssistance but un-assisted will be harder than hell and a massive effort to stop the car so I'm looking at 5 or 5.5:1 ratio so that means shortening the pedal & moving the cylinder position.

also, I've picked up some new AP-racing 'dumpy' mastercylinders on egay for a very reasonable price :dance:

more to come once I've recovered from typing this........

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So, donor car stripped, being the genius that I am, I've decided NOT to convert my 1600 car to 1800 so I've wasted time / effort & oxygen buying a breaker for the conversion parts (engine / loom / electronics etc...)

I might have got a little excited when dismantling (dismembering?) the car so now its missing a few more bodyparts than shown in the photograph (like the drivers side bulkhead where the pedals fit - helpfull with my ideas on a twin-circuit / bias adjustable brake system) :whistle:

on the upside, I have a front-end section so can 'dummy' build intercooler ideas IF I ever get around to turbo stuff.......

I stopped updating this thread when nuts went fucked (but continued to post rubbish on mighty5s :banana: ) then most of the photo links died so have made the effort to host some more....

heres a few that might fill some gaps :yes:

found this photo when going through the random's on the craptop, this photo was taken when I removed the cobalt exhaust to 'quieten' it (removed the comedy tailpipe & replaced it with some plain pipe). also it's scruffy below and maybe can see the 'flat' floorpan-frame chassis rail on the passanger side :rant: one of the 'to-do' jobs...

the revised (& quieter) tailpipe, I used some scrap steel exhaust (probably from a mk5 transit) as a trial but it worked well, maybe I should clean the soot from the bumper :thumb-up:

the standard cobalt exhaust was just too loud for my liking (& considering that I've been around rallycars for nearly 30 years that says something!)

these are the 'spare' dashboard-switch plugs that one day I'll trace, possibly rear heated screen & unknown? :trigger: maybe now as they are hosted I'll get around to it

drunk in charge of ebay, okey, I was drinking tea but you understand... :wallbash:
it's an m45 from a Mercedes of some kind. the pulley is now removed and a 'kavs' replacement / reduction pulley fits the shaft so theres the possibility of diferent speed ratio's using pulleys made for the newgen Bavarian-Murder-Weapon mini's....
I'll fabricate some brackets over the summer & play with it.

a random visit to a local car dismantlers supplied the lucky find of a hard to find early Kia Sportage front diff with the 4.778:1 Crownwheel & Pinion, these can be re-built into a post '93 mazda diff for a somewhat lower ratio (perfect for me as I'm looking into some club level hillclimb & sprint competition)
for anyone interested, this is what the complete assembly looks like.




one of the many possibly pointless fiddlings I've done is to blank the 'thermo-valve' on the inlet manifold and delete it's coolant-feed pipework (from the thermostat housing to the inlet maifold through the Idle Stability control valve), this photo shows the ISV air pathway plugs, I was intending to completely remove the ISV & make a blanking-plate for the throttle-body but decided to leave it in place to have the ecu's loom connection plugged in so no possible fault-codes :trigger:

time for a recent underbonnet shot, shows the enginebay (needing a clean) and that I've started simplifying the loom (removed the insulation tape and conduit to assess). also shows the Toyota Corrola based 'Coil-On-Plug' conversion and dodgy home-made breather can (cycling drinks bottle)

I've posted around this & another forum about my workshop, well, this is some of my workshop. theres a lot more in the way of tooling and machinery 'hidden' (think Buried' :rant: ) including another lathe, milling-machine, body-straightening dozer and 'god-knows-what' else in there....

and 'old-faithfull'. this mig set must be nearly 30 years old now, bought new & very much like triggers broom (same set but had a few umbilical / torches :rofl: ). I've also got a Camarc 'spool-gun' set for remote welding of steel & thicker aluminium but thats sorta under some junk at the moment) a few basic 'arc' sets and a small hf tig set.
as to headshields, the 'posh' Speedglass (and airfed with the Adflow units) ones are in the photo but theres a few cheaper & older 'favourites' that get used for the dirty but fume-free work.

hosting & posting has taken ages so I now need some time to recover :cry:
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Okey, an update.......

my, er, unit...... (sorry that they are seperate but imgur will not host a panoramic photo :rolleyes: )




my t4 & mk2 golf, both 1.9tdi converted, once one of them has a bit of weld added I'm putting the '5 in to dry & have some fettling B)

annoyingly, I painted the floor (red) less than 2 months ago and it's not stuck :angry:

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connected an Elloit tacometer to the car's loom, this was to test the engine's tacometer signal would trigger the tacometer (to many uses of tacometer??)

so, success :cool: the car operated the new/old Elliot 0-10K tacometer so future bogde, sorry, I mean Modification is to adapt a spare dash cluster to accept the diferent guage, might even go for a 'real' oil-pressure and water temperature guage conversion as I've a few in the garage / mess / stash / hoarding P-)


I know the bezel looks pink but i think it was red once (rofl)

all this because the Elliot has a 'tell-tale' recall function (see the switch used to test, will be a press-button), usefull to check on how the mrs. is driving :p

also, been playing with the flywheel ideas......

I bought an 'XTD® PROLITE RACING FLYWHEEL / 90-93 MIATA MX5 1.6L' from ebay USA, arrived within a week (from California) and looks to be worth the punt...

before anyone suggests that I should have purchased an 'xyz' 1.8 sized flywheel & clutch from 'xyz' I have reasons for the lightwieght 1.6 size setup.....

I'm intending to use an AP Racing 7 1/4" (184mm) multiplate competion clutch setup so a 1.8 flywheel will not accept the smaller diameter clutch cover & plate (also would need a lot of 'spare' machined away so a waste of time, money & effort)


shows the flywheel with a clutch on top (not fitted yet as need to machine a 'step' on the flywheel to create the pressure-plates 'clamp'), a spare pressure-plate from the flywheel side, a 'paddle' plate and also a rusty 1.8 flywheel.


shows the flywheel's clutch face (before machining, annoyingly my 1950's era Kerry lathe is a little too small to swing this flywheel so I will have to pay someone else for the pleasure


the engine side of the flywheel.

when the flywheel was delivered it was painted / coated in a black finish of some kind, as I am intending to modify this I removed the 'paint' and this is why the surface finish looks scratched

as I've mentioned my lathe being to small to swing the flywheel, here she is

theres a 1.8 mazda crank between the centres for scale (and a pair of cams across the bed)

not much progress to report...

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so, it fits (after some distruction inside the Mazda cluster backing)


incomplete 'trial' fit photo's, need to make the mount-plate & fix to the case as the Elliot revcounter is a bit taller than the available space
also need to decide on the adapting of the electricals as the mazda uses a 'membrane' type feed system on the cluster & the new guage( or guages if I do oil & water as well?) will need space made between the 'tracks' for the mount-studs & also power / trigger connections...



I'm using an early UK spec Mx5 dash cluster as it has less warning-lamps (lightwieght ?) BUT has the rear foglamp illuminated icon so MOT friendly - my car Being a Eunos so made for the jdm market had no rear foglamp or 'tell-tale' on the dash when illuminated...

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More fiddlin.....

been looking at loom simplification, luckily I have a spare front loom so it's laid out on the floor & considered....

must print a wiring-diagram & ecu pinout so I can trace the 'keepers' :rolleyes:


the whole section (less the dashboard loom as that stays on the dashboard...)

the drivers side, note that the bulkhead grommet is mostly missing (just to the left of the 90* bend by the fusebox) so if I actually use this loom I'll have a bot of thinking to do - mil-spec bulkhead connectors maybe?)

the 'mid' section, the ecu plugs (2) are on the right, this is a pre '93 1.6L Eunos loom so there are slight diferences between this & UK spec as well as the '94 1.8L looms like the dashboard loom connectors! - ask me how I discovered this >:D

passanger side.....

I'm looking at trimming the engine / ecu wiring & aircon 'extras' as I will be buying a 'stand-alone' ecu & making a new loom (new wire, no old cracked insulation etc) and the ac stuff is redundant so I'll give it a 'Wheeeee-test' (throw it & see how far it gets :lol: )
I'm also thinking of running a heavier wire for a rad-fan system with a relay so theres no issues, probably something else but I cannot remember......

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so, today (well, yesterday) picked up an autobox for development purposes...

well, they have a seperate bellhousing unlike mazda's manual gearboxes so *hopefully* this is a step closer to running a non-mazda (ford) gearbox........

possibly :|

reasoning behind the ford gearbox?

easier availability of competition clutch components at sensible prices.
easier to get close-ratio gearkits (& many diferent ratio's).
easy to maintain / rebuild.
easy to convert to 'Quick-Release' from the bellhousing (4 bolts)
I've built & re-built many.
I have several standard donor boxes in the shed & ( used spares.
I have a new Tran-x Straight-cut / close-ratio gearkit, heavy-duty selector-finger, new ford shafts / bearings etc in stock. ;)
being diferent.

another terrible iphone photo :p


interestingly, the mazda auto bellhousing is about* 7" from engine to gearbox face, same as the ford bellhousing that would fit the Type 9 gearbox BUT the flywheel / clutch / spiggot-bearings are closer to the engine in the ford setup so should allow for an adapter-plate....


some measuring / guessing / hopefull prayer to be done :-S

otherwise I'll weld the Bastard


* About = measured with a tape-measure (box of inches) without removing the bellhousing & not wearing reading glasses......
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went diggin in the shed, an empty T9 gearcase & tailhousing was found and placed on the auto-bellhousing for scientific purposes...


so now have an idea of the size (okey, I've already done some basic measuring so know I can make an adaptor-plate to link the bellhousing & gearcase)


placed a mazda 5 speed gearbox next to the ford one, bit of a size diference!

so, to fit a ford gearbox on a mazda auto bellhousing, an adaptor plate of around 1/2" thickness between them (size needs to be fully asessed as the ford 4 cylinder input shaft has diferent spiggot-spline lengths compared to the mazda item, some thinking & measuroing to come...)

also, the mazda gearbox is longer than the ford, once an adaptor-plate is added to the bellhousing theres still around 2" diference, luckily, theres a few options of 'cranked' quickshift gearsticks available for the ford gearbox so should still be around the 5's gearknob position.

more to come...

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more lack-of-progress....

fitted the auto bellhousing on a spare 1.8 engine, this was to easily measure the hight of the flyheel's clutch-face from the bellhousing's gearbox face...


theres an engine in there somewhere.......... :lol:


rediculously, the only ford input shaft I could find was the new Tran-x sccr item (half started box build, one-day project), photo shows it inserted into the spiggot-bearing with the clutch splines inline with the flywheel's friction-face....
can alos see that the bellhousing's gearbox face lines up with the input-bearing's snap-ring that positions the bearing in the gearcase. lines up perfectly BUT that means no room for an adaptor-plate.


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so, next job, find the length of a ford v6 input shaft (the 4 & 6 cylinder engines that had the t9 gearbox used diferent length input shafts, v6 being longer...)

then I should be able to design an adapter-plate B)

luckily, theres a longer shaft available...

shows the extra length, enough to make the space for an adaptor plate, possibly the spiggot will need shortening, will measure the depth from the mazda flywheel to the crank.

image borrowed from 3j Driveline

washed it, also gave the underbonnet a rinse.

then the moment of truth, would it start when soaked?

started as usual after a few compressions & idled perfectly


you can see the puddle in the cam-cover gallery, it's deeper than the base of the coils!

slightly soggy

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So, lastyear I bought a Jenvey inlet manifold with the intention of possible throttlebodies fun...

today I bought a pair of Weber 40 DCOM Carburettors to adapt as throttlebodies


another ebay error maybe but from the photo's & listing they are new in boxes / unused so shiney at least.

why carbs as throttlebodies you may ask? well, Jenvey (& Webcon) based their TB's around Weber's icponic DCOE series but removed the carburettor stuff & fitted injectors, I'm intending to seal the bodies & fit injectors in the manifold as luckily Jenvey cast suitable bosses there so a little drill / milling operation or two will sort this

also, these carbs were a lot cheaper than a pair of Jenvey TB's and similar priced to a set of bike TB's so no real contest. if they look to be a lot of work then I can re-sell them & sort another setup

*luckily* I have a webcon throttle linkage & 4 'rampipes' (trumpets) for 40DCOE carbs in 'stock' from an un-started build on someone else's car (1963 Lotus7 1500Cosworth) so things are starting to come togther



ebay again.

so, I decided to buy a cheap eps column & have a lookse....
HYUNDAI I10 eps column on ebay for the huge sum of £29.99 posted

hopefully it will be as in the photo with the control-unit & driveshaft / universal-joints as the uj's will make adaption so much easier


I've chosen this as...
1, its cheap so not a huge loss if it does not look like it will work

2, it looks like it's small enough to easily fit in the space available?
3, it's not a Corsa column - the corsa 'b' column's are commanding a premium price as they have been the mainstay of EPS conversions forever & are now getting somewhat screar canoe compared to a few years ago... Corsa 'C' column's are cheaper but can have issues as they are mostly 'adjustable' with a coupling in the shaft so not so easy to adapt?
4, because?

luckily I have a spare '5 steering-column so can make a jig for the mount positions & maybe 'borrow' some parts

now waiting to see what gets delivered

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more ebay sillyness

I've always disliked the route Mazda used for the lower radiator hose (okey, I understand it was standardisation for aircon pump clearance). but as my car had aircon removed before I bought it theres no reason to have the hose close to the exhaust manifold when theres plenty of room to reroute away from heat...

so, ebay and looking at other things I tripped over the shape of the Lower Radiator Hose Water Outlet Elbow for Mazda 323F. part number B6BF-15-161 , found a seller in Cyprus that has new items for £16 posted (possibly plus import? will find out
also, will UK Mazda dealers supplu for similar prices??? )


basicly aims straight out of the waterpump & has the port to take the metal heaterpipe so no further modifications.

next to look more into diferent radiators, thinking 90's Polo and an expansion-tank system

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been diggin.....

I had (somewhere) a Webcon twin-cable / lower mounted throttle linkage for DCOE type carburettors


also 4 off Weber rampipes for 40DCOE and 6 off 45mm Jenvey rampipes (fit Jenvey throttlebodies, Weber 45DCOE & Delorto 45DHLA carbs )


so, if I remember correctly, a 40 DCOE (& maybe DCOM?) carb with no aux venturi's or choke-tubes has an airfilter-side bore of 45mm, if this is correct then the jenvey rampipes can be used on 'empty' DCOM carbs used as throttle-bodies


more bits coming togther

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EPS column stuff...

also the 40DCOM Weber carburettors arrived, now to sort converting to 'empty' or dummy Throttlebodies


sorta fit.

BUT the carbs have longer throttle-spindles than Jenvey make to suit the 1.6 manifold

the angle that Jenvey make the throttlebody manifold to give clearance in an MX5's engine-bay (clutch master cylinder is sorta in the way on RHD cars) as I have horizontal carburettors they would not realy like to run at this angle efficiently

not a problem using them 'empty' as throttlebodies and fitting the injectors in the inlet manifold.

into it's mouth, on the left are the carburettor's 'aux-venturi' & 'choke' tube, these are for the 40mm bore size. on the right I've removed them to show the 45mm bore that steps-down to the 40mm diameter of the throttle butterfly

more thinkin to be done

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so, after some thinking....

the Weber carbs will not work as I want, partly due to not wanting to chop up a new pair of carbs & partly due to their 'mixture-screws' (would have been used to ballance the throttles / as air bypass for tickover) are inline of where the injectors would live IF I use the bosses cast into the Jenvey manifold


plan B (well, plan B on throtlebodies anyway...)

trawling ebay, looking at bike throttlebodies....

Triumph Speed Tripple have keihn individual bodies that house injectors post butterfly
only problem is that there are three and I will need 4



so, a few 'best-offers' later & some were bought, one complete set with trumpets and one complete set without as annoyingly most breakers remove the trumpets (ram-pipes as I was taught) so I need to find a single to make the set

when they arrive I will look into altering their centre-distance & making spacers / finding bolting to secure, also altering the throttle-spindle's 'ballance-linkages' to connect the seperates...

then design & machine adaptors to mount on the Jenvey / weber manifold face.

as a temporary trial I'm tempted to run these on a standard Mazda ecu but will need to 'trick' it into thinkin that there is an airflow-sensor operating (air-mass consumed is easy enough as it's a potentiometer in the sensor BUT theres also a fuel-pump deadman that needs thought
- maybe relayed power feed triggered by oil-pressure or alternator output

also, been playing with more EPS stuff

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another consideration on Mazda's design of the '5 was the waterpump's coolant outlet to the radiator & heaterpipe as this sends the pipework near the exhaust manifold...
I had intended to fabricate a replacement flange & pipe to aim foreward but I remember seeing a diferent shaped flange on the 323 cars (I used to work on & service a 323GTX rallycar) so ebay again and a new / old stock item was on the way from Cyprus




as you can see theres a bit of a shape diference!
also, the diameter of the 'stub' that the flexi-pipe fits is a few mm smaller on the 323 item with the heaterpipe connection in a slightly diferent place also theres no metal pipe-stub for the thermostat bypass (although these shouldn't be an issue for me as I'm re-designing the cooling system & fitting a 'twin-pass' crossflow radiator that hopefully will be more efficient than the Mazda design huge item

waiting for the radiator to arrive now, then the fun of making it fit and plumbing with the added extra of deciding on shape & position of the 'expansion-tank' that's needed for this setup


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MOT passed & rfl paid.........

now back on the road after the winter off, wonder what will break now :lol:

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