will update with pictures
Hello nutzers firstly i would like to say thankyou to those people on here who have helped me in getting here, john90, Taffylude, Frank, mr slow, I thought it would never get to this stage and To Barry Speirs for his thread without it there would be no supercharger on my car.
It has been a struggle and the most frustrating and difficult part has been the alignment iv went through numerous belts iv had the car off the road since June been using the motorbike everyday for work lol not that i had been working on the car everyday but usually at the weekends.
I basically went about this the wrong way what i done was done everything to run the supercharger the pipework, then rx8 injectors, etc then installed the megasquirt last. And the car wouldnt start no suprise there then lol
With the help of the forum we worked out there was no fuel getting to the injectors because the megasquirt generation 1 is wired up for american market miatas more specifically 2 wires had to be cut then swapped around so that it was now powering the fuel pump.
If it was wired for my car then actually the car would of ran great!!!!! that wasnt the only problem
with megasquirt 1 will come back to that later.
So I decided with this build it will be running a 20% reduction pulley but not exceeding engine 6000rpm.
also bought the chargecooler kit from John90 and decided about making an autotensioner which i read hadnt been done on the mini45 install before. I also wanted to run a single throttlebody i had a hard time understanding the different configurations and names.
so to make it clear to anyone reading this i took my existing throttle body unscrewed the throttle plate its in 2 halves.
removed the throttle spindle which left two open holes where the spindle rotates on so thats no good so made 2 bungs on a lathe from aluminum and plugged them holes up yes sar a did. this is now a Dummy throttle body and stays in the original throttle body location. I then added a 19mm one way shower valve so that boost cant leak back out here.
So I bought another throttle body this time I removed the Inlet air control valve from it put a plate over it and sealed it with some sealant. this throttle body goes before the supercharger and I had to extend the throttle position wiring to reach the new location. Now this is the throttlebody which you adjust the idle speed on!!!!!!!
make sure the dummy throttle body the idle speed screw is screwed closed.
I thought this 180 degree hose was perfect but it was getting sucked flat and stalling the supercharger which lead to the belts getting damaged and unusable afterwards.the forum suggested to use hard piping I thought it was just after the charger it needed to be hard piped so i made everything hardpiped lol
Brand new bypass valve notice the light shining through when held up to th light i managed to close this with the adjustment grub screw. I also connected the bypa directly onto the inlet manifold I read something about ths on the mini forums.
making of the autotensioner
Iv countersunk this hole as the autotensioner will fit over this bolt, the hole lines up exactly with a tapped hole in the supercharger which secures the supercharger to the tensioner plate creating another fixing point.
The tensioner is a regular mini cooper tensioner, it is not from a cooper s supercharger tensioner.
Using the autotensioner i realised I had to relocate the powersteering reservoir so i sized up the rubber pipes bought longer pipes and situated the reservoir tucked up in the back corner under the windscreen motor.
I didnt use this idler location I drilled and tapped another hole and had the idler roller pressing against the belt on the charger pulley thus creating a pressing roller to combat any slippage but what happened was when the belt wandered it came out its track and got shredded as theres not enough space.
due to the amount of belts i was gong through i had to move the idler pulley away from the charger pulley and made it in the same location found on the manual tensioners. which is roughly halfway between crank and charger pulleys.
you can see Iam not getting a good wrap around the same as before though i can use a longer belt which will sort that.
On the outlet I welded on a stainless hose barb so I could use a boost gauge to measure outlet pressure
Here's the link http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=320796929426
I basically cut off all the threaded part drilled a hole then welded around the outside of it.
Hello nutzers firstly i would like to say thankyou to those people on here who have helped me in getting here, john90, Taffylude, Frank, mr slow, I thought it would never get to this stage and To Barry Speirs for his thread without it there would be no supercharger on my car.
It has been a struggle and the most frustrating and difficult part has been the alignment iv went through numerous belts iv had the car off the road since June been using the motorbike everyday for work lol not that i had been working on the car everyday but usually at the weekends.
I basically went about this the wrong way what i done was done everything to run the supercharger the pipework, then rx8 injectors, etc then installed the megasquirt last. And the car wouldnt start no suprise there then lol
With the help of the forum we worked out there was no fuel getting to the injectors because the megasquirt generation 1 is wired up for american market miatas more specifically 2 wires had to be cut then swapped around so that it was now powering the fuel pump.
If it was wired for my car then actually the car would of ran great!!!!! that wasnt the only problem
with megasquirt 1 will come back to that later.
So I decided with this build it will be running a 20% reduction pulley but not exceeding engine 6000rpm.
also bought the chargecooler kit from John90 and decided about making an autotensioner which i read hadnt been done on the mini45 install before. I also wanted to run a single throttlebody i had a hard time understanding the different configurations and names.
so to make it clear to anyone reading this i took my existing throttle body unscrewed the throttle plate its in 2 halves.
removed the throttle spindle which left two open holes where the spindle rotates on so thats no good so made 2 bungs on a lathe from aluminum and plugged them holes up yes sar a did. this is now a Dummy throttle body and stays in the original throttle body location. I then added a 19mm one way shower valve so that boost cant leak back out here.
So I bought another throttle body this time I removed the Inlet air control valve from it put a plate over it and sealed it with some sealant. this throttle body goes before the supercharger and I had to extend the throttle position wiring to reach the new location. Now this is the throttlebody which you adjust the idle speed on!!!!!!!
make sure the dummy throttle body the idle speed screw is screwed closed.
I thought this 180 degree hose was perfect but it was getting sucked flat and stalling the supercharger which lead to the belts getting damaged and unusable afterwards.the forum suggested to use hard piping I thought it was just after the charger it needed to be hard piped so i made everything hardpiped lol
Brand new bypass valve notice the light shining through when held up to th light i managed to close this with the adjustment grub screw. I also connected the bypa directly onto the inlet manifold I read something about ths on the mini forums.
making of the autotensioner
Iv countersunk this hole as the autotensioner will fit over this bolt, the hole lines up exactly with a tapped hole in the supercharger which secures the supercharger to the tensioner plate creating another fixing point.
The tensioner is a regular mini cooper tensioner, it is not from a cooper s supercharger tensioner.
Using the autotensioner i realised I had to relocate the powersteering reservoir so i sized up the rubber pipes bought longer pipes and situated the reservoir tucked up in the back corner under the windscreen motor.
I didnt use this idler location I drilled and tapped another hole and had the idler roller pressing against the belt on the charger pulley thus creating a pressing roller to combat any slippage but what happened was when the belt wandered it came out its track and got shredded as theres not enough space.
due to the amount of belts i was gong through i had to move the idler pulley away from the charger pulley and made it in the same location found on the manual tensioners. which is roughly halfway between crank and charger pulleys.
you can see Iam not getting a good wrap around the same as before though i can use a longer belt which will sort that.
On the outlet I welded on a stainless hose barb so I could use a boost gauge to measure outlet pressure
Here's the link http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=320796929426
I basically cut off all the threaded part drilled a hole then welded around the outside of it.