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Engine Flush Or Not


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#1 denboy

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 09:56 AM

HI, I'm doing an oil change on on my 93 1.6 and I know its not had one for at least 18k the engine has done 105k and runs sweet tappets rattle for 10-15 seconds then ok, so is it best to flush or not some say yes some say no, what do you guys suggest? 


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#2 Dude

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 10:06 AM

18k? I would flush the poor engine with forte.
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#3 R3k1355

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 10:27 AM

18k on the same oil. Jesus I hope you're not going to be surprised if it pops it's clogs in the not too distant future.

 

I wouldn't use engine flush on an old engine, there's crap in there thats probably best left in place.

Just do the oil change and make sure you get the next one done on time (max 10k or 12 months, whichever comes first)


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#4 zornyan

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 10:30 AM

As above using engine flush can remove deposits yes. But in some cases those deposits may be all thats stopping an oil leak somewhere
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#5 denboy

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 10:49 AM

Thanks I think I'll just change oil and filter and then again in 1 or 2,000 miles. This neglect was down to my daughter who had the 'what do you know its got oil in hasn't it' attitude.  


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#6 benham

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 10:55 AM

My view would be to not flush it. Denboy has a good point a couple of quick successive oil changes.

 

People do get excited about various brands of additives*, but essentially they're all the same thing, hydraulic tappets seem to really dislike them and 18,000 isn't "that" dreadful compared to some cases I've seen.

 

The engine will be fine,  it won't have done it any favours but if it's currently running sweetly a basic oil change and take it from there.

 

*The most effective one I ever saw was an old sage that I used to work with who used to dump the oil out of old Ford Kent/Valencia engines and run them back up with a secret mixture of diesel, white spirit and paraffin - used to desludify those bad-boys like you wouldn't believe.....


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#7 gm eunos

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 10:57 AM

I would be tempted to do an oil and filter change using supermarket oil, run it for a few hundred miles then do another oil and filter change using 'proper' oil. There's going to be a load of deposits I there that don't drain out first time I reckon.
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#8 benham

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 11:01 AM

I would be tempted to do an oil and filter change using supermarket oil, run it for a few hundred miles then do another oil and filter change using 'proper' oil. There's going to be a load of deposits I there that don't drain out first time I reckon.

There may not be as many deposits as you think - it's going to be dirty but as I said 18,000 miles is a long time, but not a loooonnnngggg time if you get my drift.  Also these engines aren't particularly prone to sludging up or running near the maximum possible temperatures. 

 

I wouldn't worry about "cheap" vs "expensive" oil on an engine like this from the 1980s,  unless it's being abused constantly cheap oil kept clean will be infinitely better than an allegedly "better" oil changed half as often in my opinion.

 

Seen plenty of older engines make crazy mileages (over 350k) on basic oil, keeping it clean is the important bit.


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#9 zornyan

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:52 PM

The only kind of flush i do when i first get a car is drain the oil, put a new filter and the cheapest mineral oil i can find in.

Run for 1 day/50 odd miles then drop out, new decent filter, magnetic sump plug and good oil of choice.

That way any actual loose crud will be drained out without actually putting these engine flushes in.

To the above post ive heard about diesel being run in the sump (drain half of your oil and replace with diesel) and apparently it does a very good job. But i still think your risking disturbing something thats otherwise fine
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Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:10 PM

Thanks I think I'll just change oil and filter and then again in 1 or 2,000 miles. This neglect was down to my daughter who had the 'what do you know its got oil in hasn't it' attitude.

What is it with the slotted type and oil? Had a girlfriend once who had always had here car serviced by a garage until I came along and did it for her. Went on a right rant about why was I wasting money on oil and throwing away the oil it already had in it.

Not getting the negativity against using flush it will do a better job of degumming your tappets than the mystery oil method.
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#11 Bad2Tbone

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:41 PM

Some cods wallop here!

Either you change the oil and drive the thing.

Or you change it for cheap oil and drive it, and drop the cheap oil and refill with more new oil. Which equates to a flush! The only difference being that you are using cheap oil to grab any deposits before changing to good oil, instead of a proprietary oil flush.

If you are that worried about deposits in the engine/oil then add a recognised oil flush to the old oil, drive for a while and then change the oil and filter to your chosen brand.

Some will argue that an oil flush additive may dislodge sludge, block oil pump and/or pick up pipe and/or oil ways and screw the engine over. In my humble opinion if there is such unstable sludge in your engine then it's a ticking time bomb anyway and just as likely to do exactly the same with an oil change.

The only sure way is to frequently change the oil for quality oil to keep contaminants and sludge to a minimum.

If you are worried about the oil or don't know the service history feel free to add a can of oil flush. Drive for a day and then change the oil and filter in one go. Cheaper and a lot less time and a lot less waste and no more risk than changing oil once, twice or even three times.
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#12 zornyan

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 04:33 PM

But thats the point. There are many people all on different car forums etc that have used various engine flush's and had their engines fail shortly after or create leaks.

The problems being that anything that cleans away oil is going to breakdown the film of oil on the bores and crank, which is why people report big ends going after.

Also for example, say that there is a small film of slude in your engine, and its currently doing no harm and not causing any damage, then you flush and all of it gets picked up and sticks in one point of the engine (say for arguments sake an oil way to the head). Youve basically killed the engine when it could have been fine for many years to come
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#13 StavFC

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 05:00 PM

Some cods wallop here!

 In my humble opinion if there is such unstable sludge in your engine then it's a ticking time bomb anyway and just as likely to do exactly the same with an oil change.

If you are worried about the oil or don't know the service history feel free to add a can of oil flush. Drive for a day and then change the oil and filter in one go. Cheaper and a lot less time and a lot less waste and no more risk than changing oil once, twice or even three times.

 

That's the thing, everyone on forums has 'humble opinions' that they shout loudly and tell others they're talking 'codswallop', but there's a big difference between 'opinion' and 'experience'.

I've had a engine pretty much die on me after thinking it was a great idea to flush it, and it was fine before, and I sure as shit didn't drive it around for a day with engine flush in it like you suggest, I didn't drive it at all, as that'd be daft.

 

In fact, even the directions tell you NOT to drive it, it says let id idle under no load for 10-20min.

 

So yeah, in my 'humble experience' I wouldn't risk pouring engine flush in.


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#14 BlitzWing

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:34 PM

I used Wynn's Oil flush the last 2 times I've done an oil change. first time was on a car that had a patchy history the 2nd was on my current car. IMO its great stuff that turned lifter tick from a regular issue to something that only happens when its been sitting out in the cold for a few days. Both cars had/have a fairly high millage.

 

could it loosen up a clot that's been stopping a leak? sure. But that's a problem you would have had to deal with even if you didn't use it


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#15 robinm

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 08:29 PM

Ten to fifteen seconds of HLA clatter.. blimey.

 

Change the oil and filter, cheap 5W30. Run it for a week, then change the oil and filter again and use Tesco's fully synth 5W30 with the API-SM spec. £16 for four litres. It's alright. I bet your clatter will pretty much go away. 

 

I change mine every year without fail, that's about 2000 miles, I sometimes get 1 second of HLA clatter if I haven't driven the car in a while but usually nothing.


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#16 Dr Eunos

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 08:48 PM

Flush it but stick to the instructions, 18,000 mile oil could cause nasty black deposits, most oil flushes are napthalene based to dissolve black gunge. I would chuck some cheap 5W-30 in for 1000 miles, drain again, new OEM filter and re-fill with 10W40 fully synth then stick to 3000 mile oil changes.


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#17 robinm

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 08:52 PM

If it turns out to be worn Dr. Eunos is right, 10W40 would be better than the thinner 5W30. I'm amazed a 24 year old car can run on the stuff, it's like water.


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#18 Dr Eunos

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 09:21 PM

I tend to use 5w-30 in the winter for easier cold-cranking and quicker warm-up and oil circulation,  then once it is T shirt weather 10W-40 for the summer months...


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#19 NickCann

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 09:29 PM

1998 Nissan Primera Si. 1600cc. 90,000 kms on the clock when we got it. I didn't expect it to last long because it had been stood for 6 years. I figured if it lasted a year, fair enough. Oil in it was golden and clean as a whistle.It has now done 135,000 kms...still has the same oil, same filter, and never uses a drop. I suppose I had better change the oil and filter this year :D 45,000 kilometres of sheer miracleism :D


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#20 LIAM O'C

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 11:18 PM

I've always used wynns engine flush with great results especially for hla rattle and never had any problems whatsoever.
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