I finished assembling the bottom end with new bearings and ARP rod bolts so that's now bagged up, waiting for the head and sump. I'm waiting for my local laser cutters to get back to me, but I'll be ordering a few kits for the sumps and some inlet flanges while I'm there.
Ordered an MS2 kit from DIY Autotune in the USA last Friday, it arrived Monday... great service by those guys as always. Probably the 10th system I've had from them, and they are always bang on.
A few of the usual mods, rad fan relay output, PWM idle valve and 2 spark outputs. Although this time I have built an external igniter module using 2 BIP373's to see if there is any difference in the amount of noise on signals by having those high current drivers outside the MS case itself.
I picked up a bargain set of early R1 throttle bodies - these are the ones which also have vac slides in them - the thought behind these was to smooth part throttle response, I'm interested to see how this works in a car and whether it improves MAP signal at low throttle openings as I prefer to use MAP for load rather than TPS. They might be crap, but you don't know if you don't try these things. And I've been around the block enough times now to have the inclination to follow roads less travelled.
This is what they looked like when they turned up.
Interestingly they have a wax stat attached which controls air bleed valves in each body - this appears to act like an air bypass for warm up, much the same as an IAC would on true EFI. I'm not planning to retain it since they are (according to some google research) quite temperamental and prone to seizing up. I'll be removing it and going down the electronic IAC route as usual with EFI.
I am planning to retain the injectors in the Duratec head, and for reference the ones fitted to the current 2.5l engine in the Mazda are around 300cc/min and super cheap (I got a set for $75USD shipped). These will work great for an engine with throttle bodies and 210hp spec cams. This leaves the holes in the throttle bodies which I might use as the air bypass for the IAC, currently undecided. I'll make a new fuel rail for the Duratec since I have a length of blank in the workshop, that way I can use the return system and add an external FPR.
Anyway, this is what they look like stripped of everything I'm not going to use. I will split them and re-space them to suit the Duratec inlet spacing.
I also have an alternator here from a Mazda 6 - bolts straight up, but it should be controlled by the ECU using a PWM signal to the D terminal to control the regulator.
After a lot of research it seems that the PWM signal is ~1.3v at peak. With 0% duty cycle giving 0v output and 100% duty being ~18v output. I'm planning to have a bit of a play around to see if I can trick it into charging at a constant ~14v like a normal alternator by building an external regulator system. Why? Because I can and it will cost me nothing... if it doesn't work then the alternator goes in the scrap and I'll get a little denso unit instead.
The girl your parents warned you about...