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Lc-1 Voltage Output Reprogrammed For Nb Gauge


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#1 CRAIGO

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 08:52 AM

Works a treat Dazzler - cheers!

I now get a nice defined steady AFR reading on my NB gauge right the way through the rev range and even at idle. Shame I couldnt tune my car and have a play due my actuator problem.

I recommend if you have an LC-1 and a lappy with a serial connection to do this :goodjob:
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#2 Packers

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 09:49 AM

be nice when mine reads like that, instead of "nightrider mode" lol :lol:

does look pwetttty tho!!! ;)
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#3 2Fast2Furious

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:12 AM

Cool :)

Im gunna link up my gauge as well, is it an easy thing to do ??
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#4 CRAIGO

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:20 AM

Cool :)

Im gunna link up my gauge as well, is it an easy thing to do ??


Yes, its an easy thing to do. The hard part is getting a serial converter that will communicate, or finding a laptop with one on already. You also need the latest version of Logworks as the bundled version (1 I think?) is crap.
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1998 Mk2 1.8iS
Stand-alone MS2-Enhanced, MP62 (6-rib)@7psi, P5 DTB kit, RX8 425cc injectors, MOCAL oil temp/filter re-location, TDR FMIC, TDR blanket, LC-1, FM exhaust, Koni sports, front/rear strut tower bracing.

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#5 2Fast2Furious

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:31 AM

Well i have Only just got my LC-1 from ebay and came with all the Updated Logworks :):)
i also have a oldish laptop with the serial connector :):)

when it is in today i will let ya know how i get on :):)
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#6 Guest_Lovelumps_*

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:40 AM

:think he wanted the settings: ;)
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#7 CRAIGO

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:46 AM

See here
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1998 Mk2 1.8iS
Stand-alone MS2-Enhanced, MP62 (6-rib)@7psi, P5 DTB kit, RX8 425cc injectors, MOCAL oil temp/filter re-location, TDR FMIC, TDR blanket, LC-1, FM exhaust, Koni sports, front/rear strut tower bracing.

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#8 Guest_Lovelumps_*

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:51 AM

I programmed it for full range - 0v=1.5 Lambda, 1v=0.5 Lambda, which is the limits of the program.
:daz:
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#9 Daz

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:57 AM

Yep that's the ticket :thumb-up:

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#10 Guest_Lovelumps_*

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 11:01 AM

i pinned this as it could come in handy
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#11 2Fast2Furious

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 11:22 AM

Cheers Craigo :)

and good idea to pinn it :):)
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#12 friendly1_uk

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 02:35 PM

just installed mine.
How does this leave the gauge? 14.7 straight up? what kind of window does stoich cover fed thies voltages?

since fitting, my car likes to stall after a couple of mins. then its fine once warmed further. I read mats post on the link, and it talks of feeding the ecu with a linear wideband signal. I dont get it. is the e-manage he uses the gold version which accepts wb or is that the cars ecu being fed wb? im feeding the cars ecu from the wb's output number one, which is apparently a narrow band clone output. Ive not checked though.
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89 Greddy. FMIC. EMB. LC-1. Gauge linearisation. Walbro+Relay. Racing Mazda ceramic downpipe with split mod. Silenced de-cat. FM duels. FM adjustable roll bars. FM rails. HD engine mounts. 1.8 Brakes with m/c brace. Later gearbox. Torsen LSD. Rokkor Mk2 coilovers. Weapon style bar. White wheels, White car, Black Hardtop. Sunglasses holder, footwell lights.


#13 friendly1_uk

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Posted 22 April 2007 - 09:55 AM

i think my question was a little unanswerable.
http://www.rbracing-...rfuelmeterl.htm
calculator on there shows 1.5 as 22:1 and 0.5 as 7.35:1 which is as wide a band as possible for the lc-1 to measure it seems.
I dunno if the cheapo meters are linear or not, but im guessing 14.7 will be straight up and 3/4 will be 11:1

im happy with that to start tuning. eventually i hope to have 14.7 up, and 12.5 at 3/4and 10.3 full scale though. 0v=1.3lambda 1v=0.7lambda but its all theory right now.


no word on this linear wideband ecu feed then?
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89 Greddy. FMIC. EMB. LC-1. Gauge linearisation. Walbro+Relay. Racing Mazda ceramic downpipe with split mod. Silenced de-cat. FM duels. FM adjustable roll bars. FM rails. HD engine mounts. 1.8 Brakes with m/c brace. Later gearbox. Torsen LSD. Rokkor Mk2 coilovers. Weapon style bar. White wheels, White car, Black Hardtop. Sunglasses holder, footwell lights.


#14 mssansserif

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Posted 22 April 2007 - 12:38 PM

The ecu doesn't see it as a WB feed just as a slightly more accurate NB feed.

the 14.7 value is all the ecu is looking for really, and using that range keeps the 14.7 voltage the same as the ecu expects.

However it makes the voltages either side of it linear so when connectcted to a NB gauge it makes it read more accuratly instead of going between rich and lean it actually shows you values. (although it doesn't have very good resolution)

Am i close?
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#15 friendly1_uk

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Posted 22 April 2007 - 03:44 PM

done a bit now. 0.7-1.3 left 12.5:1 flashing stoich/rich boarder making the gauge appear linear. i think ive a 20 led meter, so 10 leds from 10:1 till 14.7:1 plus it flashs between so an easy readable 20 positions. 0.25each which is useable. im happy :)


still not so sure about this ecu thing though. it makes me think it wont correct with enough enthusiasm. One more nudge that way and i will try it :D
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89 Greddy. FMIC. EMB. LC-1. Gauge linearisation. Walbro+Relay. Racing Mazda ceramic downpipe with split mod. Silenced de-cat. FM duels. FM adjustable roll bars. FM rails. HD engine mounts. 1.8 Brakes with m/c brace. Later gearbox. Torsen LSD. Rokkor Mk2 coilovers. Weapon style bar. White wheels, White car, Black Hardtop. Sunglasses holder, footwell lights.


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Posted 24 June 2007 - 08:36 PM

hrm im confused tryed to change the voltages today to get rid of the "knightrider" syle to quote packers well i did but my gauge just flicks between extream rich to extream lean without anything in the middle just one to the other ...do you change the input voltages at all i assumed it was the output...
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#17 friendly1_uk

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Posted 24 June 2007 - 10:15 PM

have you perhaps pressed the recallibrate button and left everything off wack? I would imagine its possible to program the right outputs but still not make it work, if the box of tricks couldn't read the 02 sensor propperly anymore. I would imagine running problems, but then the car does get by while warming up (when narrowbands are generally ignored)

moved the decimal point? i dunno... i cant even spell it. im just not all there today :)
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89 Greddy. FMIC. EMB. LC-1. Gauge linearisation. Walbro+Relay. Racing Mazda ceramic downpipe with split mod. Silenced de-cat. FM duels. FM adjustable roll bars. FM rails. HD engine mounts. 1.8 Brakes with m/c brace. Later gearbox. Torsen LSD. Rokkor Mk2 coilovers. Weapon style bar. White wheels, White car, Black Hardtop. Sunglasses holder, footwell lights.


#18 Daz

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Posted 24 June 2007 - 10:32 PM

LC-1's can lose calibration sometimes and cause them to read inaccurately or on/off. I've got so used to mine over the time I've had it that I can see when it's going 'out' before it goes the whole hog.

What you need to do is come off the throttle above 2.5k (in 3rd or above) and press the reset button to FAC it. If the RPMs drop below 2k then the injectors kick back in and it'll still be out.

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Posted 25 June 2007 - 11:55 AM

the recalibrate button ay!!??? hrmm if i were to have done this how can i put everything back in order.....i am by no means accepting that i pressed the little red button at all....bloody girlfriend!!!! grrrrr probably best i fix this for when the ITBs go on should be finished in a couple of weeks will post some pics!!!
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Posted 25 June 2007 - 06:45 PM

well tried all that and still the same nothing seems to change......im lost lmao
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