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#21 tony100

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Posted 19 November 2020 - 06:50 PM

Interesting idea, not something I'd considered. Would the head of an Allen bolt be beefy enough to take the torque?

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#22 Zed.

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Posted 19 November 2020 - 08:55 PM

Interesting idea, not something I'd considered. Would the head of an Allen bolt be beefy enough to take the torque?

yes.

 

and then some....


would need a washer though due to the size difference :thumb-up:


as example...

 

SBD sell drysump kits for Vauxhall's infamous 20XE 16v 'redtop' engine, they advise allenbolt for crank/pulley fastening.

they sell many interesting things for many iconic engines like the Mazda / Ford duratec and Suzuki's Hyabusa B)

 

anyway, from one of their instruction sheet pdf's....

 

https://www.sbdmotor...nstructions.pdf

 

 

pux5EMJ.png

Vauxhall specify a high torque figure BUT the bolt is larger than that what Mazda use so don't copy this! :blink:

 

Rich.


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50 Shades of Silver. '91 NA6CE, Not a show car :driving: 
Ohlins dampers, goin drysump, EPS, 4.778:1 & more ideas than time :yes:
Bodger :ph34r:

https://mighty5s.com...silver-na-eunos


#23 dadbif

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Posted 20 November 2020 - 06:53 AM

C20XE, that brings back some memories, cracking engine .
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#24 Bol

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Posted 20 November 2020 - 08:20 AM

I had a woodruff key fail on a 1.8 due to the pulley being fitted wrongly. I spent money trying to fix/bodge it (professional garage) and £300 and two months later it failed again. That led to engine replacement and subsequently a bottom end rebuild on that one too.

The learning for me: getting the engine you know fixed properly = massive saving of time and money and less risk of falling out of love with your car and considering selling the bloody thing (still scarred as you can see!).
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#25 Zed.

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Posted 20 November 2020 - 10:57 AM

C20XE, that brings back some memories, cracking engine .

 

yup, you know about my affection for them (& collection :doh: ) I'm still trying to NOT think of an XE Eunos hybrid :trigger:

 

I had a woodruff key fail on a 1.8 due to the pulley being fitted wrongly. I spent money trying to fix/bodge it (professional garage) and £300 and two months later it failed again. That led to engine replacement and subsequently a bottom end rebuild on that one too.

The learning for me: getting the engine you know fixed properly = massive saving of time and money and less risk of falling out of love with your car and considering selling the bloody thing (still scarred as you can see!).

not good but at least it's sorted now :thumb-up: 

Rich.


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50 Shades of Silver. '91 NA6CE, Not a show car :driving: 
Ohlins dampers, goin drysump, EPS, 4.778:1 & more ideas than time :yes:
Bodger :ph34r:

https://mighty5s.com...silver-na-eunos


#26 tony100

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Posted 20 November 2020 - 12:51 PM

Interesting idea, not something I'd considered. Would the head of an Allen bolt be beefy enough to take the torque?

yes.

and then some....


would need a washer though due to the size difference :thumb-up:


as example...

SBD sell drysump kits for Vauxhall's infamous 20XE 16v 'redtop' engine, they advise allenbolt for crank/pulley fastening.

they sell many interesting things for many iconic engines like the Mazda / Ford duratec and Suzuki's Hyabusa B)

anyway, from one of their instruction sheet pdf's....

https://www.sbdmotor...nstructions.pdf


pux5EMJ.png
Vauxhall specify a high torque figure BUT the bolt is larger than that what Mazda use so don't copy this! :blink:

Rich.
Interesting, I'm up for trying different components. A while back I changed the 4 smaller 10mm bolts that secure the pulley to the cog. They are notorious for snapping and seem to be more integral in the SNC design.

What's the size of the SNC pulley bolt? Tried to find out but failed.

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#27 Zed.

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Posted 20 November 2020 - 08:23 PM

 

 

Interesting idea, not something I'd considered. Would the head of an Allen bolt be beefy enough to take the torque?

yes.

and then some....


would need a washer though due to the size difference :thumb-up:


as example...

SBD sell drysump kits for Vauxhall's infamous 20XE 16v 'redtop' engine, they advise allenbolt for crank/pulley fastening.

they sell many interesting things for many iconic engines like the Mazda / Ford duratec and Suzuki's Hyabusa B)

anyway, from one of their instruction sheet pdf's....

https://www.sbdmotor...nstructions.pdf


pux5EMJ.png
Vauxhall specify a high torque figure BUT the bolt is larger than that what Mazda use so don't copy this! :blink:

Rich.
Interesting, I'm up for trying different components. A while back I changed the 4 smaller 10mm bolts that secure the pulley to the cog. They are notorious for snapping and seem to be more integral in the SNC design.

What's the size of the SNC pulley bolt? Tried to find out but failed.

Sent from my motorola one using Tapatalk

 

 

personally I'd just use a new genuine Mazda bolt if I was disturbing the pulley on a road engine, I'm using caphead (allen) as I'm building a drysump setup & am adding another pulley on the end of the cramkshaft :doh: 

anyway...

 

CLuVfh8.jpg
Snc is m12x1,5mm pitch

 

Lnc is m14x1.5mm pitch

in comparison, and as I referenced it earlier, Vauxhall used a monsterous m16 x1.5 pitch stretchbolt, hence their 184ft/lbs & 45* tightening  :blink: 


you'll see I've cut the longnose bolt as a thread-clearing tool :whistle: 

Rich.


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50 Shades of Silver. '91 NA6CE, Not a show car :driving: 
Ohlins dampers, goin drysump, EPS, 4.778:1 & more ideas than time :yes:
Bodger :ph34r:

https://mighty5s.com...silver-na-eunos


#28 tony100

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Posted 20 November 2020 - 09:24 PM

Interesting idea, not something I'd considered. Would the head of an Allen bolt be beefy enough to take the torque?

yes.

and then some....


would need a washer though due to the size difference :thumb-up:


as example...

SBD sell drysump kits for Vauxhall's infamous 20XE 16v 'redtop' engine, they advise allenbolt for crank/pulley fastening.

they sell many interesting things for many iconic engines like the Mazda / Ford duratec and Suzuki's Hyabusa B)

anyway, from one of their instruction sheet pdf's....

https://www.sbdmotor...nstructions.pdf


pux5EMJ.png
Vauxhall specify a high torque figure BUT the bolt is larger than that what Mazda use so don't copy this! :blink:

Rich.
Interesting, I'm up for trying different components. A while back I changed the 4 smaller 10mm bolts that secure the pulley to the cog. They are notorious for snapping and seem to be more integral in the SNC design.

What's the size of the SNC pulley bolt? Tried to find out but failed.

Sent from my motorola one using Tapatalk

personally I'd just use a new genuine Mazda bolt if I was disturbing the pulley on a road engine, I'm using caphead (allen) as I'm building a drysump setup & am adding another pulley on the end of the cramkshaft :doh:

anyway...

CLuVfh8.jpg
Snc is m12x1,5mm pitch

Lnc is m14x1.5mm pitch

in comparison, and as I referenced it earlier, Vauxhall used a monsterous m16 x1.5 pitch stretchbolt, hence their 184ft/lbs & 45* tightening :blink:


you'll see I've cut the longnose bolt as a thread-clearing tool :whistle:

Rich.
Wow thanks for the image and info, shows the difference in the bolts.

I'll do some looking to see what options there are in that size.


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#29 jcm32517

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Posted 13 January 2021 - 01:04 PM

Hi again

Sorry its taken a while but here's the lower pulley finally off!!!
Pulley is worn!
Woodruff key is mullered!!!
Crank is also very worn on the thrust side!!

This has most definitely had the loctite fix before although how well it was done is unclear, however judging by the state of everything, not very well

My question is, shall I attempt another loctite fix? Bearing in mind all the parts add up to approximately half the cost of a basic engine!!
Or just bite the bullet and change the engine?

Any thoughts greatly appreciated..
I'm tempted to weld the pulley on to ensure it doesn't move again?
Any opinions on this?

Cheers John a37e0b7cc6caa519854b6e927c2d57dd.jpgd271832215dfbe09d5be64186563963e.jpg30b3c94db46e16542d8a4c89d62a439f.jpg

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#30 Zed.

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Posted 13 January 2021 - 02:40 PM

My question is, shall I attempt another loctite fix? Bearing in mind all the parts add up to approximately half the cost of a basic engine!!
Or just bite the bullet and change the engine?

 

 

has the american termed 'locktite' fix been done previously? was there plastic gack evrywhere??

 

If it was me, I'd drill & pin the pulley to the shaft (that is presuming the shaft OD is not worn undersize?) - by drilling & pinning I'm refering to drilling along the crank's length at the join / boundary of crank & pulley so the 'pin' acts as a round 'key' to locate the pulley on the crank :trigger:

 

but that would be easiest done with the engine removed...

is this time you considered 1.6 vs 1.8? :popcorn: 

Rich.

 


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50 Shades of Silver. '91 NA6CE, Not a show car :driving: 
Ohlins dampers, goin drysump, EPS, 4.778:1 & more ideas than time :yes:
Bodger :ph34r:

https://mighty5s.com...silver-na-eunos





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