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#1 stashio

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 10:55 AM

Hello all,

 

I'm doing a few jobs on our mk1:

mx5.jpg

 

New roof, rain rail and refurb'd dash. I figure while half the interior is out I should wax as many cavities as I can. I heard about doing behind where the rain rail sits and also around the seat belt tower - is there anywhere else I should do while I'm at it? Any recommendations? 

 

I'm guessing Dinitrol is the best product to buy? Is there a specific one for the job or anything better?

 

Thanks,

Matt


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#2 boosted

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 02:03 PM

Take the stainless steel sill kick plate off. Fire some along the sill in the holes. And in the b pillars behind the plastics.

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#3 Quinvy

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 04:17 PM

If you are on Facebook, you need to send a friend request to this guy. Anand Vaid

He's taken this to a whole new level. He even drills his own access holes. Read his posts, he knows what he's talking about.


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#4 atlex

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 08:57 PM

Definitely take the sill covers off and put something inside.. but NOT undersealing/waxoyl, please. That might fill the sill cavity and make you feel safe but you're missing the point of the sills, which are not a regular car cavity...

 

If you spray WAX inside it'll stop the drain holes from draining. Those holes need to be kept open so that they can let water out if any gets in, and get in it will, the soft top draining system isn't perfect..

 

I recommend spraying ACF50 inside, it's more an oil oil than a wax, and it wicks into rust very nicely, displacing any water. It won't block the drain holes either, it'll just leak out there, which is a good sign..

 

If your drain holes get blocked you will end up with trapped water inside the sill and that's the nightmare rust scenario.

 

that Anand Vaid approach looks sounds interesting but I'm not on facebook :-) (and never will be, FOMO be damned, zuck it down)

 

Definitely drill out the sill drain holes to at least 6mm, there are 8 holes, two at each jacking point..

 

https://www.miata.ne...sb/s034_94.html <- notice from mazda to drill out the sill drain holes. Doing this can also remove any existing blockage you might have. Don't worry about 'exposing metal' as part of the drilling process, having a little exposed steel for a day or two isn't a risk and it'll flash over with surface rust soon enough. The risk is water trapped inside the sill for any length of time.

 

What you're trying to avoid happening is this :

 

543667243895d22e319f32009e0ac894.jpg

 

And why I recommend spraying something like a wicking anti-corrosion product (like ACF50) into your sills, because the product will wick into the rust and stay there, and displace any water inside/under the rust out, letting it evaporate. You end up with 'sealed' rust that can't let water get to the metal. It won't rust any more.

 

Thicker product like waxoyl or undersealant getting sprayed into the sill cavity would just sit on top of the rust and going 'solid' just block the drain holes. At which point any more water that gets in will cause real damage.


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#5 atlex

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 09:01 PM

Also, it's worth noting (and it should be obvious from the photo above of typical corrosion) that the seatbelt tower and and the sills are very much connected....


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#6 Zed.

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Posted 20 February 2021 - 09:15 PM

Definitely take the sill covers off and put something inside.. but NOT undersealing/waxoyl, please. That might fill the sill cavity and make you feel safe but you're missing the point of the sills, which are not a regular car cavity...

 

If you spray WAX inside it'll stop the drain holes from draining. Those holes need to be kept open so that they can let water out if any gets in, and get in it will, the soft top draining system isn't perfect..

 

I recommend spraying ACF50 inside, it's more an oil oil than a wax, and it wicks into rust very nicely, displacing any water. It won't block the drain holes either, it'll just leak out there, which is a good sign..

 

If your drain holes get blocked you will end up with trapped water inside the sill and that's the nightmare rust scenario.

 

that Anand Vaid approach looks sounds interesting but I'm not on facebook :-) (and never will be, FOMO be damned, zuck it down)

 

Definitely drill out the sill drain holes to at least 6mm, there are 8 holes, two at each jacking point..

 

https://www.miata.ne...sb/s034_94.html <- notice from mazda to drill out the sill drain holes. Doing this can also remove any existing blockage you might have. Don't worry about 'exposing metal' as part of the drilling process, having a little exposed steel for a day or two isn't a risk and it'll flash over with surface rust soon enough. The risk is water trapped inside the sill for any length of time.

 

What you're trying to avoid happening is this :

 

543667243895d22e319f32009e0ac894.jpg

 

And why I recommend spraying something like a wicking anti-corrosion product (like ACF50) into your sills, because the product will wick into the rust and stay there, and displace any water inside/under the rust out, letting it evaporate. You end up with 'sealed' rust that can't let water get to the metal. It won't rust any more.

 

Thicker product like waxoyl or undersealant getting sprayed into the sill cavity would just sit on top of the rust and going 'solid' just block the drain holes. At which point any more water that gets in will cause real damage.

^^ This :yes: 

also, ACF50 IS the Bollocks :thumb-up: 

Rich.


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50 Shades of Silver. '91 NA6CE, Not a show car :driving: 
Ohlins dampers, goin drysump, EPS, 4.778:1 & more ideas than time :yes:
Bodger :ph34r:

https://mighty5s.com...silver-na-eunos


#7 stashio

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 09:47 AM

:D perfect fellas that's exactly what I was looking for! I've just ordered three cans of ACF50 which should be enough to liberally spray where required. Really appreciate your post Atlex - that was very helpful.

 

So jobs list is:

  1. Drill out the sill drain holes by 8mm (I do clear regularly but absolutely see the sense in enlarging them)
  2. ACF50 down seat belt towers
  3. Remove kick plates and ACF50 the sills
  4. Whack remaining ACF50 down the voids behind where the rain rail normally sits
  5. Beer

Sound like a plan? Also out of interest how regularly would you look to re-apply the ACF50?

 

Cheers,

Matt


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#8 Zed.

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 12:02 PM

:D perfect fellas that's exactly what I was looking for! I've just ordered three cans of ACF50 which should be enough to liberally spray where required. Really appreciate your post Atlex - that was very helpful.

 

So jobs list is:

  1. Drill out the sill drain holes by 8mm (I do clear regularly but absolutely see the sense in enlarging them)
  2. ACF50 down seat belt towers
  3. Remove kick plates and ACF50 the sills
  4. Whack remaining ACF50 down the voids behind where the rain rail normally sits
  5. Beer

Sound like a plan? Also out of interest how regularly would you look to re-apply the ACF50?

 

Cheers,

Matt

 

I'd be tempted to close the sill drains before applying ACF50 (as long as you know it's all dry?) then it will not drain out alowing it to spread & find all voids...

then after a few days open the 'drains' & collect what runs out (might be a long wait :whistle: )




the po of my silver car did similar but with old engine oil, filled sills to to & let sit....

 

few days later opened the drains & drove around 'marking his territory' :lol:

 

 

Rich.


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50 Shades of Silver. '91 NA6CE, Not a show car :driving: 
Ohlins dampers, goin drysump, EPS, 4.778:1 & more ideas than time :yes:
Bodger :ph34r:

https://mighty5s.com...silver-na-eunos


#9 Rocky eunos

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 03:50 PM

Well what a sales pitch... had to order me up a couple of bottles!
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Mk1 Black Eunos 1.8 S-Special - First MX5 (Aug '15)


#10 dadbif

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 10:30 PM

I “marked my territory” with waxoyl thanks to a few hot days after application. Lovely smell 🙄
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#11 atlex

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 09:58 AM

I've had a sudden moment, as it were, about another way to spray into the sill cavity. Typically most of the rust is going to be around the bottom of the seatbelt tower, per the picture above. But the 'access from above' the sill plate only covers the forward and middle section.

 

However if you look carefully, the rubber block that's meant to go into the door cup has two captive nuts that the block bolts into. If you take out one of the bolts and blast ACF50 or oil through that there's a good chance you'll reach some of the corrosion is, in that photo..

 

Another trick is to blast the oil up through the drain holes (after suitably widening them) :-) you'll need to be careful with the sprayer straws though it's particularly easy to lose them in the cavity.


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#12 stashio

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 11:19 AM

I spent a good 30 mins doing the job this morning and wow that ACF50 is great stuff! I also got an extension lance which surely is a must-have - effectively it's a 60cm flexible aerosol extension tube but the spray comes out in the 360 degree pattern rather than straight out forwards, ensuring a great coating. Fantastic gizmo and only a couple of quid - does the job perfectly especially for getting into the hard to access places like backwards from the seat belt towers. I got three cans which was much more than necessary, two cans would be more than enough.

 

I have to give a shout out to Sport Bike Shop - amazing service, I ordered Sunday morning and it arrived at 7:30 this morning :)

ACF50: https://www.sportsbi...ent_prod/339234

Extension Lance: https://www.sportsbi...ent_prod/338892

 

sills.jpg


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#13 atlex

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 11:25 AM

Did you put some cups under your drain holes ? it can be messy for sure.

 

impressive delivery times, no doubt about it.


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#14 stashio

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 11:36 AM

I didn't put anything under them and regret it immensely :) 


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#15 boosted

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 12:22 PM

If you got any product left wouldnt hurt to blast your front chassis rails. Not a disaster zone like the mk2s but still a cavity that could do with some preventive maintenance.

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#16 atlex

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 01:26 PM

100% @boosted

 

also goes well on coilovers and any exposed metal/rust you can find :D


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#17 boosted

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 01:28 PM

Need a mx5 sheep dip..
Ive done my s spec turbo and 10ae...

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#18 Zed.

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 01:30 PM

I wanted ACF50 so saw M&P were selling it on ebay....

https://www.ebay.co....BUAAOSwjJVgBrUK

M&P is based ~9 miles away so I went to their shop & it was more expensive on their shelves! :blink: 
 
naturally I asked if they'd do something as cash & collection as opposed to ebay & paypal fees + post & they eventually matched the ebay price......
 
 
wish I'd had it posted just to cost them :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol: 
 

 

goes well on coilovers and any exposed metal/rust you can find :D


+1 :thumb-up: 
 

Need a mx5 sheep dip..


aint that the truth :yes: 

Rich.


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50 Shades of Silver. '91 NA6CE, Not a show car :driving: 
Ohlins dampers, goin drysump, EPS, 4.778:1 & more ideas than time :yes:
Bodger :ph34r:

https://mighty5s.com...silver-na-eunos


#19 stashio

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 09:04 AM

If you got any product left wouldnt hurt to blast your front chassis rails. Not a disaster zone like the mk2s but still a cavity that could do with some preventive maintenance.

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Sounds like a plan - I've got a bit left. What's the best way to access them? I plan to underseal the underside at some point before next winter but am happy to tick off any any quick and easy preventive jobs now.

 

Thanks for all the help guys.

Matt


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#20 boosted

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Posted 23 February 2021 - 09:57 AM

Theres some holes on top of the chassis rails. With your attachment you should be able to get it all covered in there.

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